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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello!
I've got the European version of the Chrysler minivan, a -98 Chrysler Grand Voyager LE, and it has started acting up on me.

What started it all was that the central locking stopped working after the car had been parked for a few hours. I always try the key fob first, and then move on to use the key. When this happened, the lock/unlock button inside the car also didn't work. As usually is the case, I decided I need to look at that, but didn't have time. Then, suddenly one day a week or so later, when I unlocked and opened the door, the interior lights stayed on for just a little while, and then went completely black. This was obviously caused by a BCM shutdown, as the instrument cluster also went dead, and wipers and most of the lights on the outside were also black.

I tried the reset solution mentioned on this forum some place, and the car strated working again. However, this only lasted for this trip. After I had had my car parked again for a little while, this happened again. -And now I haven't been able (or patient enough) to get it to work again for some days.

I have also in the past had intermittent click-click-ding-click-ding-ding as the BCM has believed that one or another door has been opened during driving.

So, does anybody have any clue to what this is? To me it sounds like some shorting somewhere, but I have no clue as to where I should start looking :-(
Does anybody have any experience with this kind of malfunction, and could you possibly give me a clue as to where (and how) to start checking wires?

Regards,

Ole Kristian, Oslo, Norway
 

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Before you go nuts chasing wires, have your battery charged and load tested to make sure all is well there. Make sure the connections are sqeaky clean. This will also reset the BCM since the battery is disconnected for some time.

A short will pop a circuit breaker and permanently kill the system till you reset it. If anything you have an open in the circuit meaning loss of contact on a wire. In any case, I don't think that's the case. At most I would check connections for corrosion, pushed contacts, etc.

One posibility is the dreaded cracked solder joints on the instrument cluster circuit board, a common 3rd generation van problem though Chrysler appears oblivious to it. Or is it Fiatsler now? Your symptoms don't quite fit it but, we are talking about a CCD data bus associated problem which opens this up to many possiblities. Smack the dash above the cluster. If something comes alive this may be the case. Course it could be the problem even if nothing happens.

Not sure this applies to your van but, I've read a couple threads recently on this and other forums about a fuse associated with the combination flasher module blowing and killing the lights and intrument cluster. Worth a look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you. I have read all the threads (well, maybe not all, but a lot of threads) about resoldering the cluster, and have resoldered the main connector there. I will reassemble it tonight. I also took out and opened the BCM, but didn't find anything wrong there, just some miscoloration around the beeper, but I believe that is just corrotion residue. But, as you say, the symptoms don't really fit 100% for cluster resoldering in my case.

I can definitely check to make sure the battery and connections are well, even though this doesn't sound like a very likely culprit at this point. I also saw a tip about checking the ground wire, which naturally in turn would make voltage low, seen from the car's point of view.

However, whenever things start acting up, the BCM does shut down completely. I reset it by pulling the negative lead from the battery, and when I hook it back on, I can always hear from the way the relays click whether it is now likely to work or not. I believe the bcm shutdown relay clicks here. -So I suppose banging the cluster probably won't help, as everything is already shut down by then.

When I have reset the BCM successfully (often after several attempts) the door locks definitely won't work, and the interior light also doesn't work. The last few attempts now, even a few of the gauges were dead, and then the rest shuts off after a few seconds. I could naturally try to replace the BCM. I have sourced one here in Norway that is the same part number as mine, and less mileage ;-) -But I am reluctant as I think this probably isn't cased bye the BCM itself. Any opinions?

Thank you,
Ole Kristian
 

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How old is your battery?
What are the CCA (cold cranking amps) rating of your battery?
What kind of battery is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello again :)
Well, You guys do have a point. However odd the problems seem, I am leaning more and more towards the battery causing the trouble. I just bought a new one today, so I guess tomorrow or on Monday at the lates, I will know...

Both the battery that was already there, and my new one are rated at 550 CCA.

The BCM would always cut out while the engine wasn't running, or just a few seconds after it was started. If I left the battery connected for a few hours, the key fob would stop working, and as soon as I enter the car, the interior lights would stpå working, and basically upon starting, the instruments went dead. Now that I see it all in connection it seems impossible that this wouldn't be caused by a bad battery, so I am very optimistic at this stage.

Thank you so far, guys! I will naturally let you know how this goes :)

Regards,
Ole Kristian
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, so much for my new battery... It actually didn't help much at all. So, I am a little less optimistic now. I guess it is time to find my ODB II scanner, although, from what I read I wouldn't expect to find much.

Cranking doesn't sound slow, so I would assume amperage should be decent too. Of course, I could check how much current is drawn with the ignition off, as per the factory manual, but somehow, I still don't believe it is going to do me very much good.

So, what do you think? Do I need a new BCM, or are there other things I should check first?

regards,
Ole Kristian
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No luck so far...

Well, today I checked with the dealer how much a new BCM is, so I could replace it as matter of course it it weren't too expensive.

Guess what? It was WAY too expensive. Here in Norway, it costs 1200$ (No, I'm not joking). I have found one scrapyard that has one used controller with the same part number, and they will sell it to me for 40% of dealer price. -Which is still very expensive.

Does there exist any kind of tables somewhere that could be used to decode these numbers? It seems like we have different controllers from you in the U.S., probably due to our speedometers showing km/h. -But I would be happy to replace both the instrument cluster and the BCM at the same time if that were the most reasonable solution...

Has anybody ever succeded in getting OBDII data from a failing BCM?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, I guess I am the only parttaker in this thread, but hey, at least I get to share my experience as I go.

I talked to the guy at the scrapyard, and we agreed on a reasonable price for the BCM, since I assured him it would be difficult for him to sell that part to anybody else as well. These almost-loaded Voyagers aren't very common around here.

So, I now have a new BCM in my car, with 100k less kilometers than before. (Need to notify insurance about that). So far, it seems to work, but I have been convinced before. The next few days will tell me whether it really cured my van :)
 

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If those cars are rare in Norway, I would maybe try to find those parts from Sweden or Germany. Blocket.se could be good place to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well, it's the LE edition that's somewhat rare. I only found one BCM with the correct part number in Norway and Sweden. I used bildelsbasen.se to search in Sweden, and nbfbildeler.no here in Norway.

Tanks, Ole
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Liftoff!

I believe we have liftoff! My van has been working for the second morning in a row now!

Unless you hear differently, my van's very strange behavior was actually a bad BCM.

Thank you, responders :):beerchug:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No, I never tried that. Dealerships charge about 100$ or more an hour. I get to buy a lot of used parts to try replacing before it can justify the cost of manhours.
 

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I believe we have liftoff! My van has been working for the second morning in a row now!

Unless you hear differently, my van's very strange behavior was actually a bad BCM.

Thank you, responders :):beerchug:
Happy to hear it's looking good. Thanks for keeping us up to date. If it's a concern, your local dealer can reset the BCM to get the mileage back to what it should be...or did your BCM source do that for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thank you. i am aware the dealer can fix it. -But I've just notified the insurance company, and taken before and after-pictures.

I reckon I will probably keep my van until it no longer runs, so I suppose its milage really only matters to me :)
 

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hi oklona

hope you got the problem sorted. my problem isn´t as bad as yours and just hoping that maybe you could give me some advice. my voyager is a 1998 se 2.5 td model. i´ve fitted folding mirrors and the rke receiver. then discovered that i would also need the bcm module as mine didn´t even have the clips to plug the relays into. fitted it tonight. mirrors and everything works. but the abs light comes on, (don`t have abs) and the alarm set flashes. this lets me start the car but always dies after a few seconds. could you offer any advice.

best regards, ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hello, Ian!
As you might imagine, I am absolutely no expert on this matter, but the thing I have learned, is that the BCM differs depending on the equipment your car has. -So, you obviously pulled your new BCM from a van that has ABS, whereas your car doesn't have this. When it comes to the alarm, I think matters are a bit more difficult with the alarm, but I guess you should search this forum for alarm, and see what comes up. ( I don't have alarm, and don't have any experience with it ).

Regards,
Ole Kristian
 
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