[starrynight2331]

Hey guys,

So, very long story short, I'm still stuck with my 2004 T&C Limited 3.8L. We are getting another car by the end of this summer, but I NEED this to run right now, and I also want to keep it as a second backup car.

It has a bad evaporator core. Condenser and blower motor have both been replaced. It got recharged after those repairs, but whenever it has freon in it, the front vents are constantly hissing and there is literally mist coming from the vents until the freon is gone. It'll start ice cold and go warm (stays cold in the rear for the longest, no mist from the rear vents). Not sure what else this would be besides an evap core, and every mechanic I call about it tells me it's the evap core, that they don't want to work on it, and then they hang up.

My questions:
1. What is your personal favorite source (video, pics, otherwise) to see how the dash is taken apart, if you have one? I have one video for a 2010 (link).
2. What other parts might need replacing while I'm in there (besides the heater core)? I'm thinking hoses and gaskets that I don't know about right now.
3. Are there any special tools I will need that I'm not realizing I'll need?

Thank you all, you're my saviors for this car lol.

 

[Baron]

best i've seen for 4th gens, which really doesn't actually show anything:

one from a 3rd gen:

from what i understand you don't actually have to remove the entire dashboard, you can just undo most of it and swing it out of the way on the passenger side for access

 

[starrynight2331]

best i've seen for 4th gens, which really doesn't actually show anything:

one from a 3rd gen:

from what i understand you don't actually have to remove the entire dashboard, you can just undo most of it and swing it out of the way on the passenger side for access

Thank you! Do you happen to know if this is the correct evaporator core? It says use for vertical mounted TXV, but I have no idea what that is. More Information for FOUR SEASONS 54807

If that's not it, I was going to get this one. More Information for UAC EV939505PFXC

 

[Valhallalla]

I have replaced more than a few evaporator coils in 4th gen vans (and plenty of 1st, 2nd and 3rd gens for that matter). I have had to replace the front twice and the rear once in my own 2007 and I think my wife's T&C is leaking now. They are not that difficult but there are some things to be mindful of as well as some shortcuts.

There aren't really any special tools needed other than a vacuum pump and gauges for draining, evacuating and charging the system. If you are not familiar with handling refrigerants or charging A/C systems you might want to have a pro do this part for you. The rest can be done with mostly basic hand tools.

You will want to have some PAG oil to replace what is removed in the old coil. Service manual says 1.7 fluid ounces for the front coil. Use straight PAG oil or one with a leak detecting dye added. Do not use any oil with stop leak added. You are going to want to replace the O-rings at the expansion valve and maybe the expansion valve itself. I have never had to replace a heater core in a 4th gen but you may want to do that while you have everything apart. There are O-rings where the extension tubes attach to the heater core. The extension tubes are aluminum and can corrode and leak as well.

In theory, the filter drier should be replaced any time the refrigerant system is opened. Honestly, I have generally not done so and have not had a problem. I just give it a good vacuum before charging. YMMV. If you don't replace the filter drier you might still want to replace the high side service valve that is on top of it. It has a plastic coated ball valve that can be leak prone. It sucks to have this valve leak after the system is fully charged and the gauges are disconnected. I use Dorman 800-955. This does require a special eight sided socket tool like Mastercool 98234 Socket.

Of the two coils you linked to from Rock Auto, either one should be fine. As far as I know all 4th gens used the same coil. The second one is listed as extra corrosion protection. I don't know how effective that is. I believe the ones I have used are TYC brand.

One thing to know is that you don't need to disassemble most of the interior as demonstrated in the above videos. Basically you're gonna leave the dash loosely attached on the left (driver's) side while swinging it back on the right (passenger) side then extract the HVAC unit through the gap. I don't understand why mechanics you have spoken to were not interested in doing the evap replacement job. We used to consider these to be gravy work. Maybe they've been doing them as in the videos?

You will be messing around with electrical connections for the airbag system so definitely disconnect the battery. Move the power seats to the rearmost position before you do. Don't drain the cooling system. Simply disconnect the heater hoses and use some 5/8 inch caps on the heater core tubes to keep from spilling coolant inside the van.

I can try to write up in a little more detail the basic steps I use if you are interested.

 

[FabricGATOR]

What Valhala said...

and now my words:

When I did one for mom, I think it was a gen four, but could have been gen 3... I was directed by a friend/customer mechanic shop. Drop the steering column between the two front seats without fully removing/disconnecting and then loosen/put the entire dash package into the two front driver seats. Only remove what trim is required to get to the dash package fasteners... minimal disassembly required. John (or was it Dan) said it'll be pretty straight forward, but not for the faint of heart, because it looks (and sounds) a lot worse than it is.

He was right. I had the entire dash in the seats in about three, maybe four hours without instructions or a manual. At that point the airbox was right there and easy to open, remove evap core, vacuum out, and clean out the dirt, mold, and oily residue. Replace the evap core, close / seal up the airbox and then start putting the dash pack and steering column in -end day one- about 6-7 hours.
Next day I had it close enough together to evacuate a deep vacuum, and then pressure test with Dry Nitrogen to 400/ leak check with bubble solution. Another deep vacuum, and while that was evacuating, I finished up the dash install and trim. All was good and not really too difficult.

Drier/desicant should be maintenance changed every 6-10 years anyway, so unless you recently had changed it AND are only momentarily opening a system to say change a schrader valve or txv, always replace the drier. R134A becomes highly corrosive to aluminum in the presence of moisture so better to always have a new drier and perform a deep vacuum and even better is to break the vacuum a time or two with dry N2 or could even use argon welding gas in a pinch (but not Co2) you could even allow a par... well I am not going to say that out loud. but multiple vacuum is better than a short shallow suck.... keep it dry!

Now I remember it was Kevin and Ron from AutoTech, he and his partner were aircraft owner / friends.

AutoZone is great for Loan A Tool program and they'll loan a vacuum pump. *NOTE, what I have seen though, they don't change the vacuum pump oil and many times it gets spilled by others or even in the storage clam shell carry case. broken caps, and there is also a valve that needs to be open for allowing the system atmosphere out and then closed to keep the pump oil in when you are done. Just saying that I regularly change the vacuum pump oil in AutoZone pumps and return them better than I get them. The right oil level and fresh vacuum pump oil is key to good vacuum pump performance.
Don't skimp on the evacuation (or the drier) , that is where most DIYer's go wrong. Poor evac and short ac system life after they are someone's hero.
And again like Valhala said, always change the service valves, both of them high and low.

One more thing, many of the auto ac vendors sell a vehicle specific o-ring and seal kit. Again, $17 dollars to have any o-ring you might come across. You can get Four Seasons (and others) parts on Amazon too.

 

[FabricGATOR]

Hey, if you do it, take some pictures and post them here. Share your experience here.

I removed and rebuilt my own automatic transmission and I posted pictures and told my experience.
That was a few years ago and it is still working great (the transmission that is...)

 

[FabricGATOR]

And again like Valhala said, always change the service valves, both of them high and low.

AND ALWAYS PUT THE real correct DUST COVERS BACK OVER THESE SERVICE VALVES... everything in life leaks, Even glass will leak to a miniscule amount, so keep the factory caps in place:
(and on your tires too, while I am at it... disgraceful when I see all this is missing)

 

[FabricGATOR]

This morning I awoke thinking about the airbags. Specifically anyone working around and specifically in front of the airbags... Years ago some guy in Miami was killed when installing a radio in a Honda.

Disconnect the van battery and electrically tie the two battery wire terminals together for the duration of the repair.

 

[apachepilot1]

This morning I awoke thinking about the airbags. Specifically anyone working around and specifically in front of the airbags... Years ago some guy in Miami was killed when installing a radio in a Honda.

Disconnect the van battery and electrically tie the two battery wire terminals together for the duration of the repair.

I second that. Disconnect, tie, and wait at least 2 minutes according to the Alldata manual.