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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I could hear that my front brakes were rubbing as almost steel on steel so I bought new pads and replaced them myself. They were replaced by a mechanic some 26000KM ago, in about September last year and I drove about 8000-10000 KM on long travels.
The left pads, both inner and outer, were worn almost to the metal while the right side were about 60% (my estimate).
The caliper moved very nicely. What could cause that?
 

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Maybe one of the calipers is sometimes sticking or has air in the line. Replacing 1 caliper could result in uneven braking so replacement would require changing both. Try bleeding the brakes first. Can monitor with a temp gun aimed at the calipers. Drive for a bit then check the temps. Uneven temps points to a problem.
 

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Do you know how old the calipers are? I just had two that I bought in 2012 go bad last year, within 6 months of each other. Piston started sticking due to rust in the bore most likely.

Check your REAR brakes for anything seized. Often brake systems are divided diagonally, and a problem on a rear brake will be reflected in the diagonal front brake. If the right rear brake caliper is seizing, then the force will apply more to the front left and wear it out faster. Had this happen on our 2011 Sienna; front brake had a seized sliding pin and the rear diagonal brake wore the pads down to the metal and ruined the rotor.
 

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Could be that your left brake was working better than your right brake (air?).

26000KM ago??
 
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Your problem may also be the flex lines collapsing internally and preventing brake fluid from returning.

As they are cheap and your van is old, I'd replace both the calipers and the flex lines and you'll be good to go! Been there done that! Note, my problem was also on the left side.
 

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I must agree that your calipers aren't working quite as well as you think they are.
 
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I agree with many above suggestions..... re: If one side of brake caliber was replaced, then perhaps the other is replaced and well. And, ensure both calibers are same make (maker) as well. When I replaced 1 rear caliber on my 2017 DGC, I replaced its opposite side at same time. This worked for me....
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you every one. It does make sense that the caliper is sticking as both inner and outer wore pretty much exactly the same.
I will add it to my list of repairs as I also intend to replace the discs, so it would be wise to do the hole thing at the same time.

Cheers
 

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The only time the rubber lines give problems, is when there is a metal bracket wrapped around it that rusts and swells, choking the rubber line. Simply prying the bracket open fixes it. The 4th gen van did away with that problematic bracket that the previous generations had, so it should not be the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Last post reminded me that almost everytime I bought parts for my car I got the wrong ones including the pads and I had to exchange them for the right ones. I was told a while back to order parts for 2003 even though mine is 2001 because it was split year or something like that.
I also forgot to ask, after I replace the left pads and got to replacing the right pair I realized that I was left with a pair of pads with wear indicators on both so I just broke them both and used the assuming the are all the same except for wear indicators. Was I correct?
 

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Last post reminded me that almost everytime I bought parts for my car I got the wrong ones including the pads and I had to exchange them for the right ones. I was told a while back to order parts for 2003 even though mine is 2001 because it was split year or something like that.
I also forgot to ask, after I replace the left pads and got to replacing the right pair I realized that I was left with a pair of pads with wear indicators on both so I just broke them both and used the assuming the are all the same except for wear indicators. Was I correct?
Pads with wear indicators go on the inside (more wear on piston side is likely) and the indicator goes on the leading edge (what an imaginary spot on the rotor hits first). All part of organizing the job. I have seen Shops snip them off, so you are in good company. :)

There should be no difference in pad material/thickness out of the box. If the pad fits, wear it.
 

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Road Ripper, on a 15-year-old van, the lines are probably cracked and ready to leak. And yes I did have a collapsed flex line that caused me issues.

Bamia, what I'm saying to you is replace the lines at the same time you replace the caliper, and you'll be good to go for another 15-years!
 

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The only time the rubber lines give problems, is when there is a metal bracket wrapped around it that rusts and swells, choking the rubber line. Simply prying the bracket open fixes it. The 4th gen van did away with that problematic bracket that the previous generations had, so it should not be the problem.
Yes, most times it's a false alarm on the hoses, in my experience. I have replaced the odd hose only to find out the caliper was the problem. Anyway, I had a new, made in China, hose. All wasn't lost (or was it). :)

Your point about the bracket causing the problem, is very valid/well documented. The hydraulic hoses are strong, just ask the Mechanics that let the caliper, including bracket, hang by them. :mad:
 

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The pins with the rubber (anti-rattle?) go on the trailing (lower edge) of the front brackets.

Oops, that's for the next Generation.
 

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Thank you every one. It does make sense that the caliper is sticking as both inner and outer wore pretty much exactly the same.
I will add it to my list of repairs as I also intend to replace the discs, so it would be wise to do the hole thing at the same time.

Cheers
might it also be the fluid could use changing too as doesn't it cause rust / wear in the Calipers?
 

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might it also be the fluid could use changing too as doesn't it cause rust / wear in the Calipers?
Yes, brake fluid absorbs moisture. Water in oil sinks, and where is the lowest point in the braking system? The bottom of the caliper bores. They rust and start seizing the piston. This is why it's good practice to loosen the bleeders when you compress the piston when doing pads. I also clamp the hose gently with a vice grip, to keep old fluid from going back up the system. It purges the old fluid that likely has water in it from the system. After that, a little more gravity bleeding and adding new fluid to the reservoir helps to flush the nasty stuff out.
 
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