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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
My 2008 Chrysler Town and Country with 115k miles on it developed a whining, grinding noise that appears to be coming from the front end. To the front passengers the noise sounds like it is coming from the right, but my kids in the back say it is on the left.

The noise ONLY appears when I am on a very slow right turning curve in the road at low speeds (~25-35mph). As soon as I am on a straight road or at higher speeds the noise goes away.

I have read some threads here and some folks point to CV joints, others to wheel bearing hubs.

So my questions are:
1. Is there some way to tell whether the noise is from wheel bearing hubs or CV joints?
2. Is there a way to say which side? Or replace both due to one went bad the other is not far behind?
3. I have a 1.5k miles mostly highway trip coming up. Given that there is no noise on a straight, will it be ok to drive it?

Thank you for your advice.
 

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More then likely it’s the left wheel bearing. When you turn right the weight of vehicle is more on the left. Just experienced this with my 08. Drivers wheel bearing was real bad all of a sudden. Soon as I pulled apart it was very apparent. I went ahead and did both sides at 225k miles. Got them thru Detroit axle. A lot more reasonable then local parts stores. Good time to do brakes as well.


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It's likely the wheel bearing. A CV joint would make a clicking rather than a whining and/or grinding noise.

I would address the issue before the road trip. Last thing you need is a wheel bearing going out and either seizing the wheel or allowing it to wobble.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
More then likely it’s the left wheel bearing. When you turn right the weight of vehicle is more on the left. Just experienced this with my 08. Drivers wheel bearing was real bad all of a sudden. Soon as I pulled apart it was very apparent. I went ahead and did both sides at 225k miles. Got them thru Detroit axle. A lot more reasonable then local parts stores. Good time to do brakes as well.
Thanks. I found this brake/bearing kit at 1aauto https://www.1aauto.com/brake-and-wheel-bearing-kit/i/1abms00104?f=1109646&y=2008.
Seems like a decent enough deal as long as the hubs are good quality. Any thoughts?
 

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You first have to find out what the real problem is.
Maybe time to take the van to a mechanic for an estimate.
 

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It's likely the wheel bearing. A CV joint would make a clicking rather than a whining and/or grinding noise.

I would address the issue before the road trip. Last thing you need is a wheel bearing going out and either seizing the wheel or allowing it to wobble.
+1

CB joints doesn't make any kind of whining/grinding noise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You first have to find out what the real problem is.
Maybe time to take the van to a mechanic for an estimate.
Well, normally I would agree, but I am thinking that given that this is a common problem on these vans, might as well save time and replace the parts. Especially because the problem is currently very subtle and might be difficult to diagnose even for a mechanic. That is, the noise can only be heard on a slight right arch at low speed. If I drive a bit faster, its not there, slower ... not there. Straight road ... not there. Left arch/turn ... not there.

I would normally go to a mechanic first but with my long trip coming up in two weeks, I will only have next weekend to do the work, and spending $100-$200 (+time) to eliminate the risk of a wheel bearing causing a problem on the road seems worth the money to me. If it is not bearings, then I hope it is something that will not leave me stranded on road.
 

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Most likely a wheel bearing, and it's a good repair to DIY if you know what you're doing as you can check the rest of the front end assembly while you're there.
 

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You’re on track changing the bearings and saving money going to the mechanic. While job took me less then 3 hours and that included getting out and putting away tools and an oil change. You’ll need 32mm sockets for axle nut and 15 mm for the bearing retaining bolts on the back of baring. Ratcheting wrench works wonders. A chisel and big hammer to break out bearing apart from hub assembly is definitely needed. This is not at all a hard job. Be sure to torque axle it to spec. Dry important or you’ll destroy new bearing very quickly.


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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Price seems good. Paid 90 for both hubs and then about the same for pads and rotors with online discount from advance auto.
I noticed that there is a really large range in price for the wheel bearing hubs, ranging from about $50 all the way up to $250 for MOPAR at Rockauto for one.

Does anyone have a tried-and-true quality brand that they are willing to recommend?
 

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I noticed that there is a really large range in price for the wheel bearing hubs, ranging from about $50 all the way up to $250 for MOPAR at Rockauto for one.

Does anyone have a tried-and-true quality brand that they are willing to recommend?

I’ve used parts and hub assemblies on many of my vehicles for years. With no problems. So far on a Monte Carlo. A Grand Prix. An s10. A suburban. And now the caravan. I’ve not had one of them fail. Much cheaper then parts store. Advance wanted $170 a piece for the caravan.


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My drivers side was definitely the bad one. Before taking wheel off it had a lot of wobble and when turning by hand the grind and binding was horrible.


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I'd only do the one that's bad. They don't typically fail in a sudden disasterous manner, so when one starts making noise, you've got some time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'd only do the one that's bad. They don't typically fail in a sudden disasterous manner, so when one starts making noise, you've got some time.
What I worry about is that I change the wrong one. The noise seems like it is coming from either left or right depending where you sit in the car. But, it does come consistently at low speed on a slow right arch.
 

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Well, normally I would agree, but I am thinking that given that this is a common problem on these vans, might as well save time and replace the parts....
Yeah, it doesn't help much telling you to take it to the mechanic. You already know what the problem is and have the solution.

Good luck.
 

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Thanks. The largest metric I have is 19mm and 1 inch in SAE, so I have to pick up the 32mm socket.
Yeah I had to buy the 32 mm. All others I’ve needed 34 or 36. I bought the 32mm at advanced with online coupon code and picked up at local store. Was like $12
Yo should be able to feel the play and maybe here the grinding if you jack up vehicle and free spin wheels. It if you hear it on right turns. It’s the left bearing. But I changed both because I figured the right would be soon to follow. Although it was actually tight and no play. But for the cost and miles on it. I feel better about it. But then ours has 225k plus on it.


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Yeah, it doesn't help much telling you to take it to the mechanic. You already know what the problem is and have the solution.

Good luck.
Ah ... he doesn't know what the problem is nor how to trouble shoot it. He's going to throw parts at it. Good luck is right.

Gimme a break !!
 
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