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Discussion Starter #1
I've already posted this on another thread, but no one has responded (either because they don't pay attention to the thread, they're looking up the answer, I dunno), so just to be safe, I'm posting a new thread for a question about a fuel pump. (If this is against the rules, I'll take it down soon as I find out):

A while back my fuel gauge started going down and up periodically after over a year of having changed the fuel pump, so I decide to replace it again. About a week later, I run out of gas, but the meter says I had a quarter tank (20 gallon tank so I should've been at 5 gals til empty), and the guy who towed it and did the diagnostic said it could be a bad pump, despite it being new. I finally get around to looking at it with a friend who's experienced with vehicle repair, and we don't see anything wrong with the new pump. The meter inside had no stuff between it and the bar that held the float, nothing looked broken, and the only thing we could see the float resting on was the filter attached to the pump. we put everything back where it was (pump and gasket is back in, ring that holds the pump in tightened as best as it can be without breaking the top of the pump, etc.) and we take off both wires connected to the battery to reset the pump, and it still doesn't work right. Have we done anything the wrong way or was there something specific we should've done?
 

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I put in a new pump and mine is the opposite. When it's full, it reads 7/8 full, and when it says empty there are still 5 gal left.
In your case I would just mark 1/2 tank as empty on the guage and never go below 1/2 tank. I think the sending units on the pumps are not calibrated correctly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I put in a new pump and mine is the opposite. When it's full, it reads 7/8 full, and when it says empty there are still 5 gal left.
In your case I would just mark 1/2 tank as empty on the guage and never go below 1/2 tank. I think the sending units on the pumps are not calibrated correctly.
What do you mean, calibrated? How do I do that?
 

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You can put an ohmmeter across the fuel level circuits and cycle the float up and down to see if the resistance smoothly follows.
 

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"Yes, it is Airtex."

I ask because I've read on several forums over the years a good number have problems with Airtex pumps.
 

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I have replaced two pumps in my 98 GC, and the mistake I made was not comparing the original float with the new one and bend the arm to make it the same as the original.
 

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I put a new fuel pump assembly in my 1996 Voyager a month ago and the fuel gage shows exactly at the "full" mark when full. I haven't tried running it low. Indeed, I might have killed the pump by running too close to empty a few times, though 210 K mi (bought new) so can't complain about the life from the factory pump. I recall the new one was "Precise" via rockauto. They say manufactured mostly in South American (Brazil?) plants they verified and the company blurb on RA sounded trustworthy. Not the cheapest choice, but still very affordable (~$65?). The level sender is a rheostat like in 60's Mopars but ~1000 ohms instead of the 10 (full) to 70 (empty) ohms of old Mopars. You can find the exact values in a search and substitute test resistors to check your gage and an ohmmeter to check your sender.
 
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