[dubluv]

Sooooooo Hello!

My first post here and I thought I would say Hi and regale you with my short story about brake job for the front and rear on my 2010 Town & Country( henceforth called T&C).

I changed them....Front first then Rear....rotors and pads for both.

See short story....

In case anyone is interested I used the Wagner rotors on all corners, Wagner ThermoQuiet Semi metallic in the front and Wagner ThermoQuiet in the back.

Everything went ok aside from the fact that the emergency brake line was a pain.

Thanks for reading to the end, and I hope to share more with my T&C in the future!

 

[04anniversaryedition]

Welcome! Glad all went well for you!

 

[1994 Sport]

Welcome

The satisfaction of doing a job yourself is a good feeling.

 

[marine1]

Welcome aboard. How many miles did you have on your old brakes?

 

[UN4GTBL]

Let us know how they do!

 

[dubluv]

Brakes were the factory ones, and the front rotors were turned. Factory ones had 79K kms or 49K miles on them. My wife was getting the shimmy from the spectacular rotors and pads...so with everything on sale I changed out the 4 corners.

Now it's oil change, engine air filter change, and possibly a PCV valve change....

 

[millwrong]

you will thank yourself for doing the job right yourself the first time you need to use the brakes in an emergency situation. Do you really think a mechanic getting flat rate is going to take his time and pay attention to all the finer details, or are the parts going to get slapped on quick and dirty style?

Depending on your driving style/conditions, I would also consider a tranny pan drop, filter and fill. 5.5 qts of quality synthetic ATF (proper spec of course) does wonders for the 6 speeds.

 

[1994 Sport]

you will thank yourself for doing the job right yourself the first time you need to use the brakes in an emergency situation. Do you really think a mechanic getting flat rate is going to take his time and pay attention to all the finer details, or are the parts going to get slapped on quick and dirty style?

Depending on your driving style/conditions, I would also consider a tranny pan drop, filter and fill. 5.5 qts of quality synthetic ATF (proper spec of course) does wonders for the 6 speeds.

What type of changes did you notice after changing your fluid?

PS: Its my understanding that all ATF+4 is synthetic:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/fluids.html

 

[dubluv]

Haven't considered an ATF flush till now....I'll look into it

 

[millwrong]

What type of changes did you notice after changing your fluid?

PS: Its my understanding that all ATF+4 is synthetic:
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/fluids.html

Changes I noticed after my first pan drop, filter, and re-fill(done at 100K km or 60K miles):

Smoother 2-3 shift. smoother all around at all shift points, improved cold weather operation, less whining/shudder.

I was under the impression that group III oils are "cracked" dino oils, legally defined synthetic but technically not. Only Group IV oils are made from synthetic base stock.

For the small difference in price, I always buy the good stuff. In this case, I used Amsoil multi vehicle. I do not endorse one brand over another. There are lots of top notch true synthetic ATF's.

Also consider this when doing a pan drop, you are only replacing approx 61% of the fluid. My first procedure was done two years ago at 100K km. I will be doing it again this year somewhere around 140K km. After the next change I will have approx. 85% of the original fluid replaced. The next change will go to 94%, then 97%, then 99%.

My main point is, there will always be old fluid in there, so get the premium stuff. Also, after reading up on these transmissions, I didn't want to skimp out on taking care of it.

I am not trying to start a group 3 vs group 4 argument, or bashing OEM atf+4....there are billions of threads on other forums(BobIsTheOilGuy, TDICLUB, Audi forums, silveradosierra, etc, etc.) where this has been beaten to death. This is just a personal choice I have made.