Grand Voyager 4 (from 01/2001): Transmission => 31TH? Site in "Workshop Manual"?

And here a 720p video with sound: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s11SylDyv7Q
On "N", I had slightly pressed the accelerator.
Other gas fluctuations come only from the engine idling.

Some times I start for a test like this, and choose "D", he moves slowly forward.
Once a small dark "cloud" (short, and only a lttle bit) came up behind the engine block (open engine hood).
But that was only once on the way to a parking lot after breakdown.

Defective mechanic? Or electronic? Some Experience?

In your video your parking brake light is on.

Could the fix be that simple?

No .
He "died" while driving on the autobahn, ~56 miles away from home.
He was brought home on a transporter on Wednesday.
The parking brake sometimes shows "on", even without the brake applied. Other error, but not very urgent (relative to the transmission defect).

You need to describe your vehicle in more detail, year, model, engine, etc.

If it is a 31TH, there are two band adjustments that can be done with the pan off, a good time to change filter/fluid and look for junk on the magnet.

There is also a cable adjustment (probably not your problem though)

Make sure your parking brake is releasing properly. (why is the light on?)

OK, more details:

1004/533
DaimlerChrysler RG
Grand Voyager IV 3.3 Limited
January, 24. 2001
3301ccm
128kW

And the transmission oil was changed (service before 5000 miles / 8000km, at end of 2016 in a professional garage).

You have a 41TE. There are no bands and no adjustment on this transmission.

Possible clogged filter or defective solenoid pack.

The last professional transmission service in a garage was at end of 2016 at ~117000 miles (~187000km) with new oil (and pretty sure with new filter), and now it has ~122000 miles (~195000km) .
"Solenoid Pack"? I had tried to deconnect this screwed rectangle plug (from the "solenoid pack", or not?). I read that activates an "emergency program". Nothing...

What type of Auto Trans Fluid did the professional service put in your transmission?
Have you checked the level and condition of the fluid?
Did you have any issues before the service? (why was the service performed?)

You're looking at 41TE, IIRC only 4-cyl ever used 31TH and they didn't have tachometer of the dash...

This was before I buyed this car at ~119000 miles (190000km).

This service was a regular service. I think, no special reason.
Yes, NOW, the fluid could be bad. Metal dirt etc.
I'll check that. I have a canister for this: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41-Iv3vuqsL.jpg

What tools would I need? This "300 PSI gauge" "C-3293SP" is this a expensive special tool, or is there a universal tool I could find?
In my service manual, "30 psi" is "20 bar", I think, a typo. 30 psi is 2.0. But my compressor has 8 Bar. To much?
And there is another "tool" in my version "special tool", 6056 for the valve housing. It looks like a metal plate, only with holes...
Is there a cheap transmission test kit? There are also tool kits for the engines. Very expensive (for example from Hazet), and cheap copies.
The service manual mentions "tool 6056". I think "6056 Transmission Pressure Test Plate". Very rare, pre-used (no problem), and on ebay perhaps only from US with high shipping costs... Do I need it? Is there to print a draft or template to recreate it?
That's just a "thick metal sheet with holes".

Tobias Claren said:

This was before I buyed this car at ~119000 miles (190000km).

This service was a regular service. I think, no special reason.
Yes, NOW, the fluid could be bad. Metal dirt etc.

Click to expand...

41TE is designed to work only on Chrysler certified ATF+4 fluid, when incorrect fluid is used and gearbox is punished for a prolonged time, mechanical failure is practically guaranteed.

At this time, your troubleshooting should consist of taking the trans pan off draining the fluid and checking the magnet and filter (cut it open).

If you find excessive dirt / sludge or any shavings / shrapnel (metal pieces larger than 1mm across) it's time to pull the trans and rebuild / replace. Make sure you clean and blow out all the cooler lines (and clean / replace rad) before a new trans is put back in and the torque converter is replaced.

Whatever you do, do not run these gearboxes on anything other than certified ATF+4:
http://www.centerforqa.com/chrysler-brands/

I think that correct fluid was used. I try to ask the garage...

But there are also years of experience Chrysler drivers and garages have regarding compatible transmission oil with same specifications (another threads). Here for example "ATF+4"
No "wrong" oil, just not officially "blessed" by the car manufacturer.

Yes, I will check the fluid. Instantly "pull and rebuild"? No checking first the valves with fluid pressure test and compressed air test (as described in service manual)?

Tobias Claren said:

I think that correct fluid was used. I try to ask the garage...

But there are also years of experience Chrysler drivers and garages have regarding compatible transmission oil with same specifications (another threads). Here for example "ATF+4"
No "wrong" oil, just not officially "blessed" by the car manufacturer.

Click to expand...

No such thing, if is not certified ATF+4, then it is the wrong oil. Stay away from those "experienced" drivers who recommend non-certified ATF.

Tobias Claren said:

Instantly "pull and rebuild"? No checking first the valves with fluid pressure test and compressed air test (as described in service manual)?

Click to expand...

If you see metal in the pan, no test is going to resolve the mechanical failure that is already in progress...

If the pan is 'clean' (no metal) - you can pull the valve body and rebuild it first, but that won't address a leaky seal on the pump (if that is the problem).

The sad reality is that very few things can be remedies with the trans in place, and once you pull it, you might as well rebuild it (unless you enjoy swapping gear boxes).

Any fluid that is not certified is just that - fluid that has not been confirmed to meet the OEM requirements, no matter what anyone claims.

It was a big problem here in the states a while back with shops using 'universal' and 'compatible' fluids and killing gear boxes. Most shops here have smartened up and it's much less common today, but it still happens every now and then.

Re: pressure tests,

Those tests are meant to confirm if there is a problem in the solenoid & pressure switch assy (or blockage/leak in valve body).
The part that sits on the front of the trans with a large square connector.
This part can be purchased new for ~$100-150 so purchasing a $300 test plate seems unreasonable for a DIYer.

Regardless, if you pull the ATX relay or the connector from solenoid pack and don't see fully functional "limp home" mode (2nd gear and reverse), there is a problem with the gear box itself (not just the solenoid pack).