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Discussion Starter #1
My heater blower quit blowing in the front of my 2001 grand caravan but it blows/heats in the back section of the van. What do you think the problem is?
 

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I'll assume not even high speed works. Check the fuse in the fuse box (IPM). Swap the relay with an identical relay in the IPM. Check for 12vdc at the blower connector. If it and the ground is good then the blower motor is toast. Though this is for a different fail mode this video at least shows you where the resistor block is. If you have automatic temperature control then you have a blower controller instead of a resistor block but mounted in the same area. The blower motor is mounted to the right of the resistor.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsazws_za4k
 

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Hopefully for your sake, it's not the motor because changing it isn't easy. There is a single screw next to the firewall that is impossible to get to and that the service manual says you need to roll the dash to the rear to get to. I have read that one trick to avoid all that is to cut the firewall insulation in front of the screw to gain access.
 

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Hopefully for your sake, it's not the motor because changing it isn't easy. There is a single screw next to the firewall that is impossible to get to and that the service manual says you need to roll the dash to the rear to get to. I have read that one trick to avoid all that is to cut the firewall insulation in front of the screw to gain access.
Yup, or just break the tab off holding the screw.
 

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Yup, or just break the tab off holding the screw.
That's not a bad idea. I've replaced two blower motors and didn't even consider putting the rear screws back in.

It was much more difficult on my '06 than it was on my wife's '03.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Heat/AC Blower quit working completely in front but not in back

I took it took the high school automotive instructor. It was the resistor pack. It cost 94.00 for the part and charged me a little for labor. Works fine now. I love this site and will continue to learn more about my van. Thanks to everyone who responded.:)
 

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I took it took the high school automotive instructor. It was the resistor pack. It cost 94.00 for the part and charged me a little for labor. Works fine now. I love this site and will continue to learn more about my van. Thanks to everyone who responded
 

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Thanks, I have another question for anyone willing to tackle it. It started working again on Sunday, quit on Monday and part of Tuesday and now works again. Could this be a Body Control Module issue (like the locks not working issue) or could a faulty resister pack create these intermittent symptoms?
 

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Could be all the above but, I would include the relay and try that first. When it stops tap on the relay and see if it starts spinning.
 

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Try swapping the relays under the hood and see if the problem moves from back to front. Worked on my '05.
Already tried that (first idea). Does anyone think a blower motor from Advanced Auto would be a fine replacement? I can get one from Chrysler for $10.00 more (and it is a factory part). I am just a bit gun shy since that strut issue I got into this past few months.
 

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Already tried that (first idea). Does anyone think a blower motor from Advanced Auto would be a fine replacement? I can get one from Chrysler for $10.00 more (and it is a factory part). I am just a bit gun shy since that strut issue I got into this past few months.
Would it be the same for my 2005 dodge Durango 5.7 hemi
 

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Well, let me get this out of the way for you first-
This thread is 7 years old, and this forum is dedicated to Minivans, not SUVs...

Now, the easiest and most effective solution when the blower motor doesnt work, is to kick it. Most of the time when they stop working, it's because the motor is jammed or seized, and like magic, delivering a solid kick underneath the dashboard in the passenger foot-well will get it running again. 60% of the time, it works everytime.
Works well on fuel pumps too.
 

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Well, let me get this out of the way for you first-
This thread is 7 years old, and this forum is dedicated to Minivans, not SUVs...

Now, the easiest and most effective solution when the blower motor doesnt work, is to kick it. Most of the time when they stop working, it's because the motor is jammed or seized, and like magic, delivering a solid kick underneath the dashboard in the passenger foot-well will get it running again. 60% of the time, it works everytime.
Works well on fuel pumps too.
Using a more professional approach, utilize a rubber mallet to tap on the bottom of the motor enclosure. :)
 
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While tapping the motor may get it to start running again, it is not a guarantee that it will ever run again once turned off. It is letting you know that it is dying and needs to be replaced asap. Hitting or kicking the motor on a van may result in breaking the blend door/housing, and then you have to remove the WHOLE dash and heater/A/C box to replace it.

I just replaced the heater blower in my van 15 minutes ago. I broke the recirc blend door drive peg off the bottom of the "door" while putting in the new motor. Sucks to replace. I left it in the "recirc" mode for now as it was getting dark, and hope it will be okay for the winter. I will repair it eventually with a piece of metal and some screws to hold the broken piece on again. The old motor was dirty! There is no air filter before the blower, so all dirt/incoming air goes into the motor. Bad design. My symptom was the motor would start out at full speed, but gradually get slower and slower until it wouldn't blow any air. My cabin air filter was clean. Van has 196,300 miles on it, with original Denso blower motor.

In September 2018 the PWM fan controller went out, so I replaced that and the cabin filter (which was filthy!). Now 13 months later the motor failed. I will echo others' advice and say if you are replacing the controller, go ahead and replace the blower motor at the same time and check/replace the cabin filter (if so equipped). Running a dirty motor will cause the controller to fail again, and it's not that cheap. My controller was around $50, filter was $12 (both through Rock Auto) and my fan is a TYC through Amazon for $40. There is a hidden screw behind the bottom of the blower motor cover that you need to remove the floor insulation to get to (located more to the center of the firewall). All screws have a 8mm hex head. My fan is blowing again, so we'll see how long. I removed my cabin filter for the winter. I'll revisit the blend door issue if I get a good warm weekend or I tear the dash out for the engine swap, whichever comes first.
 
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