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My girlfriend's 2012 Town and Country (V6) is leaking at that bottom heater hose that goes into the firewall. It is the one that has a Y branch. The leak itself is that funky looking connector. I have replaced connectors that look like this does on other vehicles. I am not sure if they are available, aftermarket.

Dealer parts department only has the entire assembly with a sensor, I did not even see, for $290 plus tax, (one in stock). Has anyone ever worked on this hose? Also, I was going to disconnect it from the firewall and make a coolant loop (bypass heater core) to limp home. She is at the hospital and so is the Van. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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There is no sensor...

Grab 2 of these (Dorman 47238HP) to replace the plastic Ys. And then with a longer hose on the bottom, go over the lip for the quick connect and clamp it down. (Clamp must be behind the lip to hold it on.)
That will take care of all the common heater line leaks.

Finger Office supplies Font Gadget Engineering
 
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Well, those parts will run close to $40, so it's more like saving you $250. 😜 No sense in overpaying for inferior parts. Metal always beats plastic.
 
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Skidawg, I’m looking forward to your post tomorrow. I was actually going to make a post similar to yours because I couldn’t figure out how to change out the y pipe with the quick connector.

The top y pipe is pretty self explanatory but it still took me some time. Mainly because I was wrestling with the plastic shielding that goes over the hoses. Putting the heater hoses over the metal y pipe is a tight fit. It took some effort to twist and pull the hoses to get them over the new y pipe. The plastic shielding wouldn’t let me get a good grip on the hose, so I ending up cutting a slit in it and peeling it back.

The bottom y pipe, the one with the quick connector, wasn’t as self explanatory, for me atleast. I think you’re supposed to squeeze the white tabs in and then the quick connector comes off (I hope someone can provide some insight on this). What I don’t get is how to use the new y pipe works with the quick connector.
 

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...

The bottom y pipe, the one with the quick connector, wasn’t as self explanatory, for me atleast. I think you’re supposed to squeeze the white tabs in and then the quick connector comes off (I hope someone can provide some insight on this). What I don’t get is how to use the new y pipe works with the quick connector.
That's how you're supposed to be able to do it, but it never works. That's why they don't call them quick disconnects anymore.

I would just bypass the quick connect entirely by putting the hose directly on the pipe. Just some 5/8" hose with a clamp behind the lip.
 

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Thanks Sienile.

I'm assuming the hose provided by dorman is too short (about 4 inches long) and that I'll have to buy a longer hose. So with the hose, I should connect one end to the y pipe and the other end over the metal pipe (that the quick connector connects to)? I wonder if this would cause a kink in the hose because of the angle.

If you've done this upgrade on your van could you post a picture? That would be really helpful.
 

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I have it on mine, but with my catch can installed, you really can't see it. The hose coming out the bottom of the Y is about a foot long. You would size it to fit without kinking. Too long will kink, too short will pull tight with the potential to rip if mounts go bad.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks Sienile.

I'm assuming the hose provided by dorman is too short (about 4 inches long) and that I'll have to buy a longer hose. So with the hose, I should connect one end to the y pipe and the other end over the metal pipe (that the quick connector connects to)? I wonder if this would cause a kink in the hose because of the angle.

If you've done this upgrade on your van could you post a picture? That would be really helpful.
Mtfix20, you are absolutely correct, not 18 anymore getting in them tight hard to reach spots near the firewall removing the factory squeeze type hose clamps with minimal room. Those lines are in the way, I removed the brake booster lines and used a small bungee cord to hold the top heater hose to the side (left) I should post the cuts and bruises on my forearms. I bought 12" heater hose 5/8 inch, ended up cutting it in half because that 4" piece that comes with the aluminum Y pipe kit was too short. It would buckle (kink) at the turn. I am posting pictures now with this post, so you can see, how my girlfriends van looks like after installation. I know the one hose clamp is a little long, but I used all four clamps from the kit, and this was the only clamp I had left in my arsenal. Yes, that quick disconnect I squeezed the white taps at the end with channel locks and twisted it off, then removed the quick disconnect ware that was still on the pipe with a box cutter and pliers. Slid the hose over the bump on the hard line, as Sienele recommended, and put the clamp on the back side of the bump. There is a small buckle, (not bad) on the bottom hose, I would recommend at least 8-10 inches mine was just over 6", but again, I was working on it in a parking lot at the hospital, where my girlfriend was admitted. I put some antifreeze in it after wards, test drove it operating temperature, dry as a bone. I am still sore from that job, it even rained on me. Let me know if you, have any questions. Good luck.
Sienele, thanks again for the tip, save me $$$$.
 

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Great. Looks like you barely have the bottom hose on the Y. Should've left it a bit longer as you said. Oh well, you can knock that out when it's in a better spot (and can take care of the other Y).
 

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Skidawg, I hope that your girlfriend is alright and has a speedy recovery. Also, thanks for the great write up and the pictures. It seems that I’m a visual learner 😃. I’ll probably tackle the job soon.
 
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