WOW! You should be good for a few years there, 04. At least with the C&P anyway. :thumb:Rustproofed the van today. Got as much spots as I can get and most of the underbody is sprayed now. I even got the exhaust lol. I got the exhaust real hot and had a smoke and smell show with the rustproofing burning off. I expect the same thing to happen on the next drive.
Lots of rust check and a couple bottles of fluid film. Hit up the bottom of the doors and everything as well, fluid filmed the rocker panels real nice...Now the van is dripping rust proofing lol. Just got to ATF+4 inside the rocker panels, but got to wait for a long drive to slosh it all over the place.
Didn't spray anything under the hood because I like a nice dirt free engine bay and I need a new hood soon lol. All that's left is under the spare tire, but I want to wait until after I do what I got to do with the spare tire to spray under it.
Now I'm all ready and set for the winter.
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help, she's getting rusty on the rockers
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04 uses that on his cereal. :lol:
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Careful, careful, as rust is from the inside out, and not the outside in.
Indeed. I think 04 knows this as he's filling his rockers with ATF. My next experiment is mixing my old ATF+4 with bar and chain oil with tackifiers. My rational: Although ATF does a wonderful job on its own creeping everywhere and warding off moisture, I find that there is little ATF left on the tops of the wheel well seams behind the speakers (when I remove them). Hoping the increased viscosity and tackifiers will hold the stuff in place longer.
As to putting rustproofing on the outside, I don't need to do this to my rockers as they are black and greasy from the ATF slowly creeping out of the seams and wicking upward. I do spray the bottoms of my doors but that is in case I get a rock chip caused by the tons of gravel and sand they dump on our rural roads. If I do get a chip, the self-healing rustproofing will protect the metal temporarily. I also use my little red straw and Rust Check red to do the joining parts of the plastic cowlings and metal panels.
Another area I watch is the rear hatch bottom. You see a lot of vans rusted at the lower lip and that is because the plastic bumper top protector lifts up and chafes away at the paint exposing bare metal over time as the lift gate is repeatedly opened and closed.
One that I haven't quite figured out is the rust that appears just below and to the left of the wiper assembly on the lift gate just under the window glass. When I got my van I had a tiny bubble that I fixed immediately and it hasn't returned. I see large rust blisters coming from this area on a lot of vans. There doesn't seem to be any abrasion possibilities but I suspect that the airfoil allows water to sit there for longer periods.
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I can't see the spray cans getting the required coverage inside of door panels etc. There is a wand available for the Fluid Film spray cans. That should work fairly well.
I use two different wands with my spray gun and feel I need both types for adequate coverage depending on the situation. For example I can spray at one end of the rear axle with a "hooked" wand, sending mist out the other side. I still go in there with the "long" wand to increase the coverage.
I use two different wands with my spray gun and feel I need both types for adequate coverage depending on the situation. For example I can spray at one end of the rear axle with a "hooked" wand, sending mist out the other side. I still go in there with the "long" wand to increase the coverage.
I've had great success with just the spray cans. I've used both the red straws and the flexible extensions with our undercoating kit at the school. Both result in rust protection dripping out of the drain holes. I really believe in the wicking power of these compounds. If they settle where water does - lowest point - and work upwards, then they cover and protect well. Now, where I really like the long flexible wands with a 360 degree spray tip is in the frame holes under the van. Push the wand all the way through and release product as you pull it back out. This does an outstanding job.
Yes, I love the 360 degree tips. That would be awesome to have. I am convinced that Fluid Film is probably the best product - at least for undercoating - but I can't seem to actually get in the habit of buying it. I have purchased a gallon and some spray cans in the past. Plus, I have a seemingly endless supply of ATF so it's hard for me to justify buying a gallon or even a few spray cans when RC C&P can be had for under $6.00 a can at Walmart Canada. I may ask Santa though this year for a couple of spray cans of FF from our local parts store - currently $10.99/can.
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What I try to do is ensure the latches, levers and electrical items inside the door panels/hatch get sprayed as well, to lubricate and protect. The wands I have work well for that.
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I phoned their number. About $2.00 for shipping via mail he said. They also have a chain of NAPA stores which carry the wand, one located in Windsor here.
Too true. When I was in replacing my door speakers, I blasted C&P in around there. Maybe I'm just imagining it, but isn't there a divider between the lower and upper sections of the door? it's been a while since I had the door panels off. I guess there has to be some kind of access as water leaking past the window seal has to drain out the bottoms of the doors. When I had the van Rust Checked the first time (usually do so they can drill the holes) they did drill one about half way up the door. I can just pop those plugs and spray the upper portions of the door.
We have a NAPA Canada about 1/2 hour away from where we live. Also one just across the border. I wonder 2 things: Does either stock this item? I wonder if it would work on Rust Check cans as well? Not looking for an answer from you obviously, :lol: , but I could see this as a great stocking stuffer if it is interchangeable across different product cans. Don't have a FF can on hand, but I am going to Walmart today so I may see if the spray heads are interchangeable. Thanks for the info!
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The nozzles look the same, but the Fluid Film one is slightly bigger where it goes into the can. Sorry for bearing bad news.
The Fluid Film rep locally was pressuring a NAPA store here to get more Fluid Film out on display. His response was, "don't know why, we keep running out of stock as it is". No doubt Fluid Film is a hot seller. Its great lubrication properties are recognized as well.
I still have few cans of Rust Check in my stash. Great for oiling the barbecue grill and frying eggs. :lol:
MMMM...I wonder if the grilled food or eggs would taste like cherries or just smell like that. Wait, I can vouch for the fact that Rust Check (red anyway) just smells like cherries. It doesn't taste like cherries. Now the Coat and Protect just tastes like grease from, say, a leaking ball joint.
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Definitely. Now, I realized that I forgot one area and that's the front suspension....with my free time i'll submerge them with rust check...
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Yessir...has an interesting taste, but keeps me lubricated for the day :lol:
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Like 06 said...I ATF+4 the inside of my rocker panels...one of 06's best ideas yet! ATF+4'd the rockers last year and things seemed to work out well.
Yeah, I soak my front suspension parts with C&P as well. As thick as the stuff is, it doesn't stay on very long. I'm guessing all the water and airflow wears the stuff away quickly. I wonder if the Fluid Film would hold on longer. Or, Maybe a wax-based compound might last longer.
I've been reading about mixing mineral spirits with paraffin wax and an oil-based product (maybe ATF). One guy did his truck frame rails and he claims it stayed on really well even in the 'high traffic' areas of the wheel wells.
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Grease and graphite use to be the stuff to use. It tended to dry out after a while and Mechanics hated working around it.
No soft coating, not even wheel bearing grease, is going to stand up to heavy splashing that could be compared to a pressure wash. Hard shell coatings may last a little longer but will be pushed off by the rust forming under them.
I touch up those areas from time to time with a quick spray. Those areas tend to be of heavier metal, heavy scale rusting and perforation not being a problem.
No soft coating, not even wheel bearing grease, is going to stand up to heavy splashing that could be compared to a pressure wash. Hard shell coatings may last a little longer but will be pushed off by the rust forming under them.
I touch up those areas from time to time with a quick spray. Those areas tend to be of heavier metal, heavy scale rusting and perforation not being a problem.
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Finished rustproofing the front suspension...one can of rust check per side...well protected now. When will it snow lol, I want to ATF+4 the inside of the rockers.
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