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Discussion Starter #1
Ok i have 93 Caravan v6 3.0.I had a full tune up done(Spark plugs,wires dist.cap,rotor,fuel filter and air filter.I have recently replaced the altenator,starter and replaced the transmission filter And the front valve cover gasket just yesterday.When i go to accelerate the RMP drops from about 1100 to about 500 most times it will readjust and go,but some times it will stall.once im going im fine,it accelerates beautifly,it even idles fine its only when i accelerate while its cold.As soon as the needle moves even slightly on the temperature gauge the problem get less frequent and after it starts to get good and warm theres no problem at all.The only thing is it takes about 20 minutes of drivng to get hot.I love this van and will not get rid of it because of this problem.I just was wondering if anyone knew a way to solve this or at least help it alittle.This problem was here before and after the tune up and work.Is this just a tempermental thing that came with age or is there a way to fix it?


Thanks
 

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AMC Nut stuck in a Dodge
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I own a 94 caravan and had same issue few years back.I replaced the EGR and the problem was solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you both for your input.I will change this later this week and make sure to let u know how it goes.
I hope to keep this van going as long as possible,it is my first vehicle and i feel very attached to it.
 

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AMC Nut stuck in a Dodge
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Keep it going.Mine is proof that the 3.0L will last(400+kms).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Any body have any ideas how to improve gas milage?As you can see in the first post I have gotten it the full treatment and the tires only have about 15,000 miles on them and i keep them good and full.Anything will help.
 

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Well getting that EGR taken care of will help you out. Other than that, remove all weight not necessary in the van(including the rear seat if you dont use it), keep up on the tire pressure. I removed the rear seat in my old 05 Grand Caravan and I netted about a 2mpg highway gain.
 

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Ok i have 93 Caravan v6 3.0.I had a full tune up done(Spark plugs,wires dist.cap,rotor,fuel filter and air filter.I have recently replaced the altenator,starter and replaced the transmission filter And the front valve cover gasket just yesterday.When i go to accelerate the RMP drops from about 1100 to about 500 most times it will readjust and go,but some times it will stall.once im going im fine,it accelerates beautifly,it even idles fine its only when i accelerate while its cold.As soon as the needle moves even slightly on the temperature gauge the problem get less frequent and after it starts to get good and warm theres no problem at all.The only thing is it takes about 20 minutes of drivng to get hot.I love this van and will not get rid of it because of this problem.I just was wondering if anyone knew a way to solve this or at least help it alittle.This problem was here before and after the tune up and work.Is this just a tempermental thing that came with age or is there a way to fix it?


Thanks
Will likely get a code showing up if it is EGR valve related. Have you checked/are you getting a check engine light?
Sounds like a temperature sensor type issue to me.
 

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This vehicle will not through a MIL for EGR fixed a bunch of them with bad egr and no MIL
My experience with a 1995 3.3L Caravan was that the check engine light would come on and a code related to the EGR valve would be stored. Eventually engine idle would become rough with frequent stalling as the condition got worse. The problem in this case was the solenoid portion (electrical) of the EGR valve. A leaking vacuum line to the EGR valve itself will also show a code. Perhaps the valve itself sticking will not activate a code.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok i replaced the egr valve and the problem got worse.but once i disconnected the other small hose going to it the problem was better then before.Feel stupid for buying a part i didnt need,but theres no way to know if i needed it or not.But what is the other hose going to ,is it possible thats bad and could be causing my problem?????
Im so frustrated now....
 

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:help_wsigThere was never a check engine light with this problem.Or could it be the egr solenoid?
I replaced an EGR solenoid/transducer on the 1995 Caravan years ago and the problem went away. Recently (my Son owns the Van now), the light came on again. I noticed one of the hose connections was rusted off the actual valve. My Son stuck it back on with something and now all seems well.
The kit usually includes the solenoid/ transducer and the valve. The solenoid/transducer seems to be the more common problem.
I assume your EGR valve assembly looks something like these:
http://www.autopartsworld.com/1993_dodge_caravan-le_egr-valve_parts.html

http://shop.autopartsfair.com/store/?N=10121+4294965622+1607+9291

If the situation got better when you disconnected the hose, then likely the valve was closed and no exhaust gases were getting into the intake manifold. The EGR valve allows exhaust gases to enter the manifold when the engine is warm and at higher RPMs so that the combustion is cooled down and less pollutants are produced (nutshell version). If the exhaust gases are allowed in the intake manifold when the engine is cold or at idle, the engine will be rough and tend to stall.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I drove it this morning with just the egr hose on the carburator.The other hose that goes to the carb. is disconnected,im not sure what this does..It leads under the battery.It ran alot better then with the hose that goes under the battery connected.
so at this point the egr is connected and the other hose is not.So where do i go from here.And where could i get a solenoid/transducer?
 

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Since you are on the EGR valve as the problem, let's follow it through. I would still expect to get a code showing up, like on the 1995 3.3L, but anyway, here goes.
2.5L / 3.0L / 3.3L --- which one?
A picture of the 3.3L with some explannation: http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl948e.htm

Does yours look like this one? Do you see the hoses and their routing? Does your new EGR valve have the same number of and location for hose connections as your old one?

Does your engine have an idle air control motor along side of the EGR valve like in the picture? This is not part of the EGR valve but could be the problem.
See this site: http://www.ehow.com/how_2301261_clean-idle-air-control-motor.html
 

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I drove it this morning with just the egr hose on the carburator.The other hose that goes to the carb. is disconnected,im not sure what this does..It leads under the battery.It ran alot better then with the hose that goes under the battery connected.
so at this point the egr is connected and the other hose is not.So where do i go from here.And where could i get a solenoid/transducer?
The hose that goes under the battery may go to another item that requires vacuum such as possibly the cruise control vacuum storage (on my 2002 for example). By disconnecting the hose, I think you are allowing more air into the combustion chamber to offset the ill effects of the EGR, or whatever, problem.
 
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