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so my parents are possibly getting a 2016 town and country touring tomorrow (tuesday, november 15) and it has 121k miles on it. how long is this going to last them? i'm worried they'll only get two years out of it.. their last minivan, a 2011 dodge grand caravan crew, was purchased in may 2019 with 89k miles, and recently the engine died at 171k. if you do the math, that's like 27k a year.
 

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The ongoing troubles start - in average - around 150k miles. A well cared for Caravan can get over 200k miles on the same engine, but most 2nd and 3rd owners do not care for their cars. If your car is a one owner van with 100% of all required services done, including at least 2 trans fluid flushes, you may get away with a decent deal.

Since car prices are coming down, I'd wait for times where you can buy a 1 year old base model Caravan with 20k miles for 28 grand or so. Buying Caravans with over 100k miles makes only sense when you can do the repairs yourself.
 

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We have a pair of 2015s, a 2016, and a 2018 currently in my family.

My 2018 is over 100k currently. It's needed cooler lines and brakes.

One 2015 is over 430k miles. It's needed cooler lines a few times, 5 sets of brakes, a radiator, and a few suspension rebuilds. It's seen tons of SNG driving, heavy loads, and has towed a 3k lb trailer most of it's life.

The other 2015 is over 535k miles. It needed an oil cooler around 70k thanks to a quick lube. Brakes, suspension, cooler lines. It sees hard family use, is driven hard, and still keeps truckin
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The 2016 is over 435k miles. Cooler lines, suspension, brakes, radiator.

Oddly enough, when you take care of them, they have no issue going the long haul. Unfortunately, maintenance is a mind blowing concept to the average owner.

So I guess it all depends on who owned it before them and how it was taken care of.
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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If it's been well maintained in that 120k, then it could last a long time. If oil and transmission fluid changes weren't done regularly in that time, it could be a problem soon. All depends on its current condition and your ability to address the common issues before they become a problem.

At 120k, all of the plastic cooling system parts are nearing failure (oil cooler, heater Ys, crossover), the transmission is due for what should at least be its 2nd fluid and filter change, and it probably needs engine mounts if they weren't recently replaced. If you have any ticking rockers those need to be addressed ASAP to minimize damage and cost. If it needs everything I mentioned here, all this can be done by a competent DIYer for under $1,000.
 

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I bought my 1-owner 2012 in October 2021 with 106k for under $6k. $350 for a CarPlay radio and backup camera (DIY install) and $500 for tires and she was rolling. If the van has solid maintenance records, that’ll make the 120k more framed in expectation

I’m a big DIY guy, and I know how to pick great used vehicles and I take great care of my cars, so a 1 owner clean family van, with 100k+ miles 20 years ago, forget it, but nowadays, if I can expect reasonable maintenance and failures evenly spaced to budget them, then it’s ok. But this DGC van does often make me unnerved.

So I agree with:
Buying Caravans with over 100k miles makes only sense when you can do the repairs yourself.
I’ve had my moments of terror when low trans fluid made me sure I needed a rebuild. I did the fluid/filter at 110k and cooler lines, and it’s been fine, though it’s naturally a trans that clunks and flares, oh and don’t get me started on the shutter in reverse…really Chrysler!?!

My current money pit list has been:
Done: Trans fluid/filter, trans cooler lines, Oil, tires, radio, thermostat, drive belt, battery, tint, headlights, coolant drain/fill, AC recharge, Everything except. Tires+tint were DIY.

Upcoming: Brakes, rotors, spark plugs, monitor small trans leak, tire rotation, coolant leak, y-pipe, power steering fluid suck-out and fill.

I’m sure there’s gonna be curve balls, but it’s been 1 year, 2 to-go. So long as the trans and powertrain stay together I’m probably gonna be fine.
 

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... though it’s naturally a trans that clunks and flares, oh and don’t get me started on the shutter in reverse…really Chrysler!?!
...
Upcoming: Brakes, rotors, spark plugs, monitor small trans leak, tire rotation, coolant leak, y-pipe, power steering fluid suck-out and fill.
...
Add mounts to that list.
 
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though it’s naturally a trans that clunks and flares, oh and don’t get me started on the shutter in reverse…really Chrysler!?!
Ya, no they're not.
While people experience these things sometimes, it's usually caused by clogged filters, failing TC, other internal issues, or software issues.

They tend to happen more to people who drive "nicely", whereas 62TEs that get wrung out often don't tend to experience them.
 

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I think he's talking about sudden downshifts, both are usually caused by trashed mounts. Trans has rotational slop so it engages a higher gear then suddenly hits resistance against the mounts and downshifts to meet the demanded power.
 
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Where i live theres surprisingly a lot of high mile late model town and countrys on the market. And there asking an arm and leg. Any used vehicle with 120K miles is a hot potato. The money you save on buying used might be spent making big repairs. A new transmission or a camshaft job would be a kik in the butt. Definitely steer clear if the vehicle doesnt have a documented maintenance history.
 

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Maintenance is the key to it. The 3.2/3.6s are awesome engines. Yes, they have the ticking issue. But at that mileage, it either never had the problem. Or the problems more than likely been solved. Yes, the oil coolers leak. But that's also hit and miss. I've had my Cherokee for 21k miles, and cooler hasn't leaked. I did buy it used at 36k though, so can't say if it was replaced prior under warranty.

It wouldn't hurt to have your preferred mechanic look it over with a fine tooth comb if you're not comfortable doing it yourself.

Again, maintenance is everything. I still change my oil every 3k in the Cherokee and my 4th gen GC. Oil is cheaper than engines. Oil is cheaper than transmissions. And way less time consuming.

Anything can last if properly taken care of.
 

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A "flare" is a rise in rpms between shifts, usually followed by a "slip" into the next gear.
Thank you.

My transmission is flaring, now that I know what to call it.

Do you think it would be ok for another month?

Eric

Sorry for the hijack, if it goes beyond one more reply I will create a new thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Thank you.

My transmission is flaring, now that I know what to call it.

Do you think it would be ok for another month?

Eric

Sorry for the hijack, if it goes beyond one more reply I will create a new thread.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would start with a fluid/filter change if it's never been done.
 

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A fluid filter service, and ensuring your cooler lines aren’t seeping (on top of trans) will do wonders for the performance of the 62TE. I used to have slips and ‘flares’ daily, and discovered I had low fluid level due to leaking cooler lines, and probably a clogged filter. Did 1st service at about 110k miles, 4K miles after purchase. It’s been much better, but had a slight flare yesterday. It clunks into gear sometimes from P-R, P-D, which I’m told a flash would fix. Regardless, the trans makes me nervous often, but I know I’ve done all I can for it.
I opened the old filter, and it was way dirty. The fluid was very dark, but didn’t smell burnt and magnet was fuzzy, but nothing more.
 

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A fluid filter service, and ensuring your cooler lines aren’t seeping (on top of trans) will do wonders for the performance of the 62TE. I used to have slips and ‘flares’ daily, and discovered I had low fluid level due to leaking cooler lines, and probably a clogged filter. Did 1st service at about 110k miles, 4K miles after purchase. It’s been much better, but had a slight flare yesterday. It clunks into gear sometimes from P-R, P-D, which I’m told a flash would fix. Regardless, the trans makes me nervous often, but I know I’ve done all I can for it.
I opened the old filter, and it was way dirty. The fluid was very dark, but didn’t smell burnt and magnet was fuzzy, but nothing more.
Chances are your clunking is bad motor mounts, which are oh so common on these, usually well before 100k miles.
 

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Chances are your clunking is bad motor mounts, which are oh so common on these, usually well before 100k miles.
Thanks for the tip. I took a look at all my motor mounts when I did the trans service, and they all looked OK. One (below) nearest to trans has a hairline crack, but none are urgent repairs. Honestly it only occasionally clunks, forgot to say the clunk from R-D, and the feel/sound is that it’s the transmission doing it—so maybe the mounts could soften it, but you can still tell it’s not ideal.
 
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