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2015 Town and Country touring
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I carry 10' 2x4's inside the van. Just use the pass. seat as a balance point and send to the top of the dash.
^This. I just lay a towel on the dash first, then just slide 'em in, hatch closes all the way!

Another option, though admittedly I havent tried it, but I think a 10 footer might make it, is if you have the removable center console, you could just pop that out of the way and load the lumber straight down the middle on the floor between the seats. Not near the van with a tape measure to check at the moment.


Adam.
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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The roof rack can hold a good deal of weight, but be careful how tight you strap them... that's how I ruined one of my roof rack bars.
 

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Between the roof racks and the interior space, I carried enough pine siding for a 10' x12' shed.

9'? Are you sure. How many 10 footers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If I cannot find 10' (in the minivan), I will have to buy 16' (roof). I don't have a rack. I plan to put blankets and plywood board for weight distribution. Thank you for the warning.

I need about fifteen 10' for the project.
 

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How can I keep the rear hatch half open without bouncing?
I routinely carry 2x4x10 and 2x4x12 lumber in my 2005 SWB van by running it on the floor all the way up to the lower cubby on the dash. The long pieces do stick out the back, so I place a towel for padding where the tailgate meets the wood and run 2x bungee cords from the tailgate grab handle, around the 2x4s, and then to my trailer hitch. Very little tailgate bounce, and whatever bounce may occur is dampened by the aforementioned padding.

FWIW I also attach a bright red rag as a flag to the back end of my stack.
 

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Wrap twice around the tailgate grab handle and around the lumber. Both bungee hooks go to the hitch. I think my HD bungees are 36-40" in length.
 
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If a few transport need tasks, I simply let the wood stick out the rear's open hatch and use a bungie cord to "hold down" the wood.

If doing lots of transports (or long distance), I use a T-Bar within my van's trailer hitch. It can be store bought. For me, I got my local welder guy to make me one - that can be used for wood sticks and wood sheets. For example: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51Eecym1u-L._AC_SY355_.jpg

For either above method, I also use different bungie cords to hold down its spring loaded rear hatch (using a foam ball between the wood and rear latch lid). To secure the bungie cords, I installed some D-Rings on the inner rear hatch area. See attachment for visual. To me, these 2 x D-Rings should be factory build - like factory rear hatch "hold down anchors" on my previous mini-van.

This works for me...

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2014 Ram C/V, black, delete seats, windows, factory hitch
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I can slide 10ft 2x6's completely inside between the seats, (no center console). I can stack them about 6-8 pcs high in two rows before they start preventing the hatch from closing. For bigger stuff, like packs of 12ft vinyl siding, I made rings that attach to the license plate screws and I bungee from those to the trailer hitch.
 

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As two others have mentioned, tie down the hatch and you'll be fine. Keep windows up and run HVAC fan on high with outside air to prevent exhaust from coming in.
 
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2014 Ram C/V, black, delete seats, windows, factory hitch
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Yup - the problem is that there really are no good hook points on the exterior of the gate. Thats why I made a custom license plate frame of 3/16 steel with rings on each side. Without the hitch, there isn't much to tie off to below the bumper either unless you fabricate a ring under the bumper cover that protrudes enough past the cover to prevent the rope or bungee from bending the cover.
 

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Rupert, I don't think anybody responded directly to your question about using the roof without a roof rack. I don't recommend doing that. Though it's wasn't a Chrysler product, I have dented the roof on a van doing exactly what you tried, including using padding and plywood to distribute the weight. Maybe our vans' roof is stronger, but I wouldn't count on it.
 
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