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Ok so my child lost the only key to my 2005 Chrysler town and country so I had the ignition swapped which it started for 3 seconds and shut down the 3rd time it didn’t start at all so I put my old ignition back on and had a locksmith come out and make me a new key and disable the red light wich he say he did so it didn’t work a waste of money so now my van has been sitting for 2 months and that’s my only means for transportation and I don’t have to money for Chrysler I’m all out of ideas since everything works in the car but there is no crank no start I have already replaced the battery and starter and still nothing
 

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Ok so my child lost the only key to my 2005 Chrysler town and country so I had the ignition swapped which it started for 3 seconds and shut down the 3rd time it didn’t start at all so I put my old ignition back on and had a locksmith come out and make me a new key and disable the red light wich he say he did so it didn’t work a waste of money so now my van has been sitting for 2 months and that’s my only means for transportation and I don’t have to money for Chrysler I’m all out of ideas since everything works in the car but there is no crank no start I have already replaced the battery and starter and still nothing
Welcome aboard,
1) what kind of key did the locksmith give you? (plain black head / plain grey head / FOBiK with buttons)
2) when to put the key in and turn it to run pos, after most lights go out on dash do you see the red security 'dot'?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
He gave me 2 keys the light grey head and dark grey head he didn’t have any fobs, the red dot comes on for about 3 seconds den leave but there’s no crank no start nothing
 

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Transponder key. There is a computer chip inside the key which is read by the computer.

Get a chrysler dealership to make it, take them your title or registration and drivers license.
 

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He gave me 2 keys the light grey head and dark grey head he didn’t have any fobs, the red dot comes on for about 3 seconds den leave but there’s no crank no start nothing
You said you replaced the starter, did you try shorting (jumping) the starter relay? Does that engage the starter?
If it does, try swapping that relay for another of same size.

If Immobilizer is locking it out, it's also locking out (sending no power) to the "ASD" relay.
 

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SENTRY KEY REMOTE ENTRY SYSTEM
The Sentry Key Remote Entry System (SKREES) is available as a factory-installed option on this vehicle. It is designed to provide passive protection against unauthorized vehicle use by disabling the engine, after two (2) seconds of running, whenever an invalid key is used to start the vehicle. The SKIS is active whenever the ignition is on and does not require any customer intervention. The primary components of the system are the Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM), Sentry Key (integrated key with tranponder and RKE on a circuit board), indicator light, Body Control Module (BCM), and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). The SKREEM is mounted to the steering column with the molded, integral antenna mounted on the ignition housing. The indicator light, is located in the Mechanical Instrument Cluster (MIC).

OPERATION VEHICLE THEFT SECURITY SYSTEM
Upon failure of proper Sentry Key Remote Entry Module (SKREEM) communication to the PCM, the PCM will shut off fuel after two seconds of run time. The engine will not re-crank on the key cycle that the failure occurred, a full key down sequence must be performed for the engine to crank again. After six consecutive fuel shut-offs, the engine will no longer crank on subsequent key cycles. The failure must be corrected and a valid communication process between the SKREEM and the PCM must occur for the engine to crank and start again.
Source: DaimlerChrysler Corporation, 2005 Chrysler RG/RS(Voyager), Technical Service Manual


There is nothing wrong with the relays, there is nothing wrong with the battery, starter, ASD, or anything else.
The key does not have a transponder. the engine will shut off after 2 seconds if the transponder is not detected. The engine will not crank after 6 failed starts until a valid transponder key is detected.

You must go to the Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Fiat dealership with a valid Title or Registration in your name and your valid proof of identity to order a new transponder key.

The ignition and key from another van did not work because each Key Transponder will transmit a unique serial number over radio frequency which must match the value stored in each Van's specific BCM.
 

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The key does not have a transponder.
Which key? says who? - The immob is detecting a valid key - the sentry LED is turned off after 3 sec 'bulb check'...

Owner's manual said:
During normal operation, the Theft Alarm/
Immobilizer Light will come on for three (3) seconds
immediately after the ignition switch is turned on for a
bulb check. Afterwards, if the bulb remains on, this
indicates a problem with the electronics.
If the bulb begins to flash after the bulb check, this
indicates that an invalid key has been used to start the
vehicle. Both of these conditions will result in the engine
being shut off after two (2) seconds of running.
Keep in mind that a key which has not been programmed
is also considered an invalid key even if it is cut to fit the
ignition lock cylinder for that vehicle.
If the locksmith merely cut a chipped blank, the system would flash Sentry error message...
If the light goes out, it's detecting a valid key.

Note: there should only be a single transponder key next to the ignition cylinder (keep the other in your pocket or at home)
 

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Tiara, are you sure the van (transmission) is in 'Park'?
If it is, try holding the brake and shifting to Neutral then try to crank it over. (don't forget to put it back in park before you let go of the brake)
 

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It's possible that something else is broken, but unlikely.
If it barks like a dog, walks like a dog, looks like a dog, it could be an outer space alien, but it's probably just a dog.

All the symptoms align with the key not having the correct transponder, OP says everything worked fine on the Van prior to losing the key, there is a 99.99% probability that the key is the problem. Having a one in a thousand problem occur exactly when another one in a thousand problem occurs multiplies to one in a million, and I think those are generous odds.
 

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It's possible that something else is broken, but unlikely.
If it barks like a dog, walks like a dog, looks like a dog, it could be an outer space alien, but it's probably just a dog.

All the symptoms align with the key not having the correct transponder, OP says everything worked fine on the Van prior to losing the key, there is a 99.99% probability that the key is the problem. Having a one in a thousand problem occur exactly when another one in a thousand problem occurs multiplies to one in a million, and I think those are generous odds.
0.01% chances something got disconnected when ignition switch was replaced.

But I also agree, it must be the key.
 

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Not sure I agree with everyone that's saying it's the key. It might be, but I find it strange that the security light is going off after a few seconds. Typically it will flash if there is an invalid (or no) transponder. But OP says the light is turning off after a few seconds, which is the normal behavior with a working transponder. I suppose it's possible (now that it's likely OP's van is in the "lockout" state), it may have different behavior in the lockout state (which happens after 6 failed attempts).

OP, do both keys (the black and the grey) give the same behavior of the security light? That is, do they both cause the light to turn on for 3 seconds, and then go off?
Also, could you post a picture of each of the keys? Trying to figure out if they are actually transponder keys or not.

At my local Ace hardware, they have a display at the key-cutting desk where they can check for the presence of a transponder. Might be worth checking.
Here is the cheap experiment I would do:

Get a non-transponder copy of the key that turns in your ignition at your local hardware store. Should be like $2 or $3, just say you want a spare copy for opening your door, even though you know it won't work to start the van.

Try using that non-transponder key to start the van, and observe the behavior of the red light.
Next try using each of the keys that the locksmith gave you. Does the behavior of the red light change? If no change in behavior between the non-transponder key and the ones the the locksmith gave you, then I'd agree it's the keys the locksmith gave you. Otherwise, there might be some other issue.

"I put my old ignition back on and had a locksmith come out and make me a new key and disable the red light wich he say he did " - sounds to me like a locksmith did come out with a DRBIII and add the new key to the van. But the experiment I mentioned should help to find out.
 

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Without an original key you won't be able to program a new one yourself and I doubt the locksmith can either. You can buy a new remote fob key online and then have the dealership cut it and program it. Get a two pack and have a spare. There is no other way around it at this point.

Before you go to the dealership call first and make sure what documentation they will want to see and whether or not the vehicle needs to be present.
 

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Without an original key you won't be able to program a new one yourself and I doubt the locksmith can either.
Some locksmiths do have the DRBIII tool that will allow them to program the van to accept the new transponder key.

Before you go to the dealership call first and make sure what documentation they will want to see and whether or not the vehicle needs to be present.
The vehicle most certainly will need to be present. The tech will need to physically hook up the DRBIII (or DRBIII emulator via witech pod) to the OBD2 connector on the van to program it.
Once the van is programmed to accept the key, a 2 way programming process will happen between the van and the key. The transponder will (wirelessly) have an code burned into it by the van, and the van is programmed to accept they key. Incidentally, this is why a key that has been programmed on a particular van can no longer be used on any other van (at least using standard methods).

The only way to program a new key to the van without the DRBIII is to have 2 distinct existing working keys. That is obviously not possible in this case.
 

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If it barks like a dog, walks like a dog, looks like a dog, it could be an outer space alien, but it's probably just a dog.

All the symptoms align with the key not having the correct transponder, OP says everything worked fine on the Van prior to losing the key, there is a 99.99% probability that the key is the problem.
I put my old ignition back on and had a locksmith come out and make me a new key and disable the red light wich he say he did
..
I have already replaced the battery and starter and still nothing
Without knowing what the locksmith did (or what kind of locksmith it was), we can't know what it "walks, looks or barks" like.
If the guy just slapped a piece of black tape over the Sentry LED, it would not be visible for 'bulb check'...

The difficulty with parts cannon "fixes" is that you simply don't know weather those repairs helped or hurt.
(I have no idea who performed those repairs and what they checked before and after)

Perhaps it's worth calling the locksmith again to have him double check his work before towing the van to the dealer.
 

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We do know happened, the van failed in the exact procedure outlined in the manual.
What you're suggesting is that immediately, the very first time they turned the correct key, the ASD relay or a related component failed, and created the exact same symptoms sans security light.

It's like winning the lottery kind of odds.

The owners manual says that the light will flash prior to the 2 second fuel pump shutdown. It says nothing about a flashing light after the immobilizer has prevented cranking. The description is very contextual.
 

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We do know happened, the van failed in the exact procedure outlined in the manual.
Nope, the van didn't fail at all, it worked exactly as designed - no valid key kill ignition after few seconds several times then prevent starter from engaging...
What failed was the owner/operator/repair person who ignorantly decided to change ignition cylinder to remedy lost key instead of paying for a replacement up front.

What you're suggesting is that immediately, the very first time they turned the correct key, the ASD relay or a related component failed, and created the exact same symptoms sans security light.

It's like winning the lottery kind of odds.
Again no dice, it would be more like trying to collect on lottery by forging a ticket - there was a lot of work done to alter the van, not a simple "coincidence".
And I'm not suggesting those components failed, I'm suggesting doing 'proper' diagnostics before sinking more money down a rabbit hole... (if you recall, the van also sat for 2 months)

The owners manual says that the light will flash prior to the 2 second fuel pump shutdown. It says nothing about a flashing light after the immobilizer has prevented cranking. The description is very contextual.
You can read what it says and interpret it any way you want. It says what it says - one can not confirm functionality of SKIM without DRB-III and dealers don't typically make house calls.
The choice is between trying to fix it or giving up and having it towed to a dealer.
(Since if your hypothesis that locksmith is inept is true, there's no point in trying that route again)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
some how I didn’t get notifications for the site so I wanna answer everybody question I know a little about cars and I have already wasted money and it’s really the wrong season to keep wasting money so when trying the key in the ignition I get no codes on the dash the security light simply comes on for a few sec then shuts off but when I go to start up the vehicle it dosent crank or turn over but everything works in the van the van have been sitting for months and worked perfectly fine prior to key loss Chrysler acts as if they don’t wanna help and can’t be sure what my cost might be if I did get than van towed every time I call bk it’s a different price
 

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Based on that picture, looks like those grey keys are likely aftermarket transponder keys.

I would try the experiment I suggested earlier: get a copy made onto a cheap non-transponder key at your local hardware store, and try it in the ignition. See if the security light behavior is any different when you try to crank. This obviously won't solve your problem, but might give a clue as to where to go from here.
 

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get a copy made onto a cheap non-transponder key at your local hardware store
Or you could save the trip to the store by completely covering the grey plastic part of the key with a sheet of cooking tin foil - just make sure it's completely wrapped with no gaps and only the metal key 'blade' is exposed...
 
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