[jczarn]

Curious how sensitive the SKIM reader in the van is. This will probably work, but I don't know how much foil you'd need to guarantee it. You might be surprised how well some RFID transponders work despite aluminum foil:

Aluminum Foil Does Not Stop RFID

www.omniscienceisbliss.org

I figured a few bucks was worth it to have a more definite answer.

Or you could save the trip to the store by completely covering the grey plastic part of the key with a sheet of cooking tin foil - just make sure it's completely wrapped with no gaps and only the metal key 'blade' is exposed...

 

[Road Ripper]

This reminds me of another thread years ago, where a member was adding the factory security system/key to his van (that did NOT have it) and he got locked out. He had to take the van, keys, and proof of ownership to the dealer and they had to get a new engine computer and reprogram everything to work together. Cost him like $600 but that was years ago.

So does the engine computer, BCM and key all have to match to work together, or is there more to this puzzle? I'm wondering if the correct combination of parts can be swapped in from another van to work (but obviously the VIN would be wrong). VIN could always be reprogrammed in later, if need be. The BCM and engine computer would have to exactly match the configuration of the vehicle, and in some cases the year.

 

[Mndadvan]

Ok, let's recap and maybe I'm just a little simple minded.
1. Owner has key, van works.
2. Kid loses key.
3. Owner has locksmith make new key. Nothing known if actually done correctly for programming said new key.
4. Van doesn't start.
5. Repeated attempts to start van goes into lockout mode (see special edy post)
6. Owner replaces lock cylindar, starter, and battery.
7. Still doesn't start.

One constant in all of this. The New Key. It is not verified 1 the key is actually programmed correctly and 2 what the locksmith did to turn off the light.

Maybe like Edy I'm a simpleton here but quack quack, just take it to the dealership and have them do it. Otherwise let's go track down the original starter just for S&G's and see if that does it! Better yet let's get the owner and oldladyinny together on a class action lawsuit. (Alright I couldn't help myself on the last one)

K.I.S.S.

 

[jczarn]

Yeah, I remember that thread too, apparently it cost him $1200!

Here it is, for reference (I find it almost impossible to find anything with the new forum search):

I screwed up, bigtime!

So I went to the junkyard to get some stuff and i found this thing on the donor car that wrapped around the ignition lock cylinder and on the bottom it said siemmens IMMOBILIZER. so i took it, along with some other stuff that looked like a alarm system. I went home i plugged it in and a red dot...

www.chryslerminivan.net

This reminds me of another thread years ago, where a member was adding the factory security system/key to his van (that did NOT have it) and he got locked out. He had to take the van, keys, and proof of ownership to the dealer and they had to get a new engine computer and reprogram everything to work together. Cost him like $600 but that was years ago.

So does the engine computer, BCM and key all have to match to work together, or is there more to this puzzle? I'm wondering if the correct combination of parts can be swapped in from another van to work (but obviously the VIN would be wrong). VIN could always be reprogrammed in later, if need be. The BCM and engine computer would have to exactly match the configuration of the vehicle, and in some cases the year.

 

[atoman]

Ok, let's recap and maybe I'm just a little simple minded.
1. Owner has key, van works.
2. Kid loses key.
3. Owner has locksmith make new key. Nothing known if actually done correctly for programming said new key.
4. Van doesn't start.
5. Repeated attempts to start van goes into lockout mode (see special edy post)
6. Owner replaces lock cylindar, starter, and battery.
7. Still doesn't start.

One constant in all of this. The New Key. It is not verified 1 the key is actually programmed correctly and 2 what the locksmith did to turn off the light.

From reading the posts, my understanding was:
working van -> lost key -> replaced cylinder -> tried to start -> got "locked out" -> put original cylinder back in -> Then it gets a little 'muddy' since several months elapse at some point, most logically
called locksmith -> new keys made -> no crank -> replaced battery & starter? -> ended up asking here.

To "turn off the light" one of two things had to happen:

• new key(s) are paired with SKIM
• a bypass of some kind is cobbled together to trick the system into thinking a valid key is present

The latter is highly unlikely since no valid keys (paired transponders) were present anymore and it would have to have been an 'electronic counter measure' (aka PCI bus hack) which would cost more than 2 generic transponder blanks.

It's not diffucult to verify that the keys are programmed correctly - the 2 keys should enable the owner to put SKIM in "add a key" mode... (procedure is in the manual).

Yeah, I remember that thread too, apparently it cost him $1200!

That thread is hardly applicable - the "donor" module was from a vehicle the person did not own and could not obtain the PIN for...
Here, all modules are original to the van, so even if SKIM is inop it just needs a new SKIM + key.

 

[Road Ripper]

Just asking for two reasons.

1) To cure the OP's problem by buying a matching engine computer, BCM and keys (matching the van configuration) and plugging/playing the new parts and key to work.

2) My own interest. I will be swapping a 2001 engine and engine computer/transmission computer, wiring, and who knows what else to make it work, into my 2004. I only have 1 key for the 2001, but 2 nice FOB keys for my 2004 plus remote start. Trying to understand the system in case I have problems in the future with this swap.

As I understand, the original key was lost. New key was made to match a new cylinder put into van, security system "bypassed" and it didn't work. Van has had to sit for last 2 months because it is locked out and won't start. Sounds like a hack of a locksmith didn't know what he was doing and screwed everything up. What should be done is to UNDO whatever the locksmith did, get a new key and have it programmed into the system professionally (dealer). What the locksmith probably did was the wiring trick to disable the horn and flashing lights of the alarm system, but the key is still wrong. Return to stock.

 

[atoman]

Dan, lets sort a few things out first:
Alarm and Immobilizer are two different systems - alarm functionality is handled by BCM vs. Immob which is part of "Sentry Key Immob Module"
Sentry on 4th gen vans had two 'generations' - the older gen 1 had a chipped head key and dongle FOB and was circa '01-03. Gen 2 was introduced with NGC and had a combo FOBiK and spans '04-'07.

Even if OP buys a set of 'computers' and keys that are transponder-less, unless SKIM is removed before those modules are put in, it will 'lock' the modules as soon as PCM discovers the Immobilizer.

The 2nd gen FOBiKs you have for '04 will not work with '01 SKIM module (and yes if '01 key is chipped you need a SKIM module to make the SBEC ECU work). Even if the 'chips' were compatible, once they're paired they can not be re-paired to a different module by factory design.
Supposedly (according to unverified and unreliable sources on the web) there's a hack out there that can 'blank' old keys, but I've not seen it done.
There are verified 'vulnerabilities' in the system such that a successful handshake frame (from valid key) can be captured on PCI bus and 'cloned' by a bypass device to fool the system.

 

[ChryslerCares]

some how I didn’t get notifications for the site so I wanna answer everybody question I know a little about cars and I have already wasted money and it’s really the wrong season to keep wasting money so when trying the key in the ignition I get no codes on the dash the security light simply comes on for a few sec then shuts off but when I go to start up the vehicle it dosent crank or turn over but everything works in the van the van have been sitting for months and worked perfectly fine prior to key loss Chrysler acts as if they don’t wanna help and can’t be sure what my cost might be if I did get than van towed every time I call bk it’s a different price

Hi Tiara254,

We're very sorry to hear of your concerns. If you are unable to receive more feedback from here, we do recommend alerting your nearest FCA dealer. They would be in the best position to assist in ordering a new key for you. If you need assistance in towing your vehicle, please call Roadside Assistance at 1-800-521-2779.

Alex
Chrysler Cares

 

[rogermurdock]

Been there done that. You need the "transponder" key. I tried the same thing. Thought I could just get another key. Put in the key and started right up. But then it just died. Had to replace the innards in the key, too. You must go to the dealer and shell out about three hundred bucks. Fact.
Dave and my 2005

Source: DaimlerChrysler Corporation, 2005 Chrysler RG/RS(Voyager), Technical Service Manual


There is nothing wrong with the relays, there is nothing wrong with the battery, starter, ASD, or anything else.
The key does not have a transponder. the engine will shut off after 2 seconds if the transponder is not detected. The engine will not crank after 6 failed starts until a valid transponder key is detected.

You must go to the Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep/Fiat dealership with a valid Title or Registration in your name and your valid proof of identity to order a new transponder key.

The ignition and key from another van did not work because each Key Transponder will transmit a unique serial number over radio frequency which must match the value stored in each Van's specific BCM.