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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I usually change the oil between 4,000-6000mi. (70 percent highway miles) Synthetic oil will be changed at the 6,000-mile interval. I am trying something new. I was originally going to use Shell Rotella T6 but I can’t find any. So, I am trying the diesel oil form Mobil one. I am not sure if I am throwing money away, but I am hoping to go up to 8,000 mi because I assume the diesel oil has more additives for wear and tear. I want to know your knowledge and opinion if 8,000mi intervals is a bad idea. I know some people use 5w20 on some years, but I think those engines burn a bit of oil. Heck I dont mind using 5w30 cheap oil if it can make it 5,000 miles.
 

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A lot of the motor oil performance is directly related to the additive package. A conventional oil, with a superior additive package, will do your engine more good than a synthetic oil with a mediocre additive package. So says Royal Purple.

For my 2016 DGC, Chrysler says to not go more on an oil change than 10,000 miles, using conventional oil with no additional miles for using synthetic. I target my oil changes for around 6,000 miles using conventional oil but, speaking of experiments and using the vehicle's oil monitoring system, my van went 9,500 miles on an oil change, a couple years back. Your 8,000 miles using synthetic oil is not pushing any limits unless your engine is idling a lot and not showing miles for it. Is it a taxi or pursuit vehicle? :)

Yes, you are throwing away money and the additional detergents, or dispersants, in the diesel engine oil may not be good for your engine or exhaust system. I don't know but here's an article worth reading.
Comparing Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oils

Some choices to consider in 5W-30 or 5W-40 viscosity
Rotella Gas Truck oil (synthetic)
Rotella Multi-Vehicle oil (synthetic)
Super Tech 5W-40 European Formula (synthetic by Warren Industries) The winner for price. Using it in my Jeep.
Valvoline Daily Protection 5W-30 (conventional with some synthetic blended in) My choice for the Van
The last hyped-up motor oil I would choose would be Mobil 1.

Ever consider running your oil filter for two oil changes? I'm doing that for my Van using FRAM higher end filters rated for 15,000 miles. Why waste a high end filter media? Reducing my carbon footprint in the process. :)
 

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My opinion, going 8,000 miles between oil changes is not a bad idea; using diesel motor oil in a gasoline motor is a bad idea.

I have run synthetic oil at 8,000 to 9,000 mile intervals for over 30 years and have not had an engine failure (knock on wood). Had a '97 go to 290,000 miles and an '04 go to 240,000. Current stable has an '06 at 198,000 and an '02 at 180,000 and a low mileage '06 at 136,000. I won't count my '14 with 66,000 miles, just broken in. My '14 will go 7,000 to 9,000 miles before the oil change monitor lights up (over 70% highway driving).

Note that diesel fuel is more of a lubricant and gasoline is more of a solvent. The diesel additive package is designed to clean the cylinder walls more which could be detrimental to a gasoline motor which relies on the thin oil film for lubrication and compression where as the diesel fuel itself provides some of the needed oil film for lubrication and compression (one of the reasons a diesel motor can run compression ratio upwards of 14:1)
 

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The issue with extended change intervals isn't the oil, it's the filter, which seems to be the point everyone misses.
Doesn't matter if you have "3k mile conventional" or "15k mile synthetic", your filter will still need replacing at the same mileage.
 

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I don't see why not. I've been doing 10K OCI's for a few years now with no problem. I use Pennzoil Fully Synthetic 5W-30 and Frame Ultra Synthetic 15K miles oil filter. I did have the oil lab tested, to confirm it was still protecting the engine. We have an 01 DGC EX with 3.8L engine with over 307K+ miles.
 
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I ran Mobil 1 0W-40 in all the first three of our 3.8 liter minivans and went somewhere between 10,000 and 12,000 miles per oil change. During that time I sent a half-dozen used oil samples out for analysis and they all came back showing even after 12,000 miles the oil was still healthy (but starting to get tired). All three of those vans went well over 200,000 miles and didn't use any more oil when we sold the old girls than they did the day we rolled them off the showroom floor. For our 4th minivan I bought it with just shy of 200,000 miles on the clock, miles which only saw conventional yellow-can Pennzoil in the crank case and miles which saw the van pulling a boat all over California. Yeah, the engine was pretty sludged up; instead of Mobil 1 0W-40 I opted for Shell Rotella T6 5W-40; within 10,000 miles of buying the van the engine was nice and clean inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A lot of the motor oil performance is directly related to the additive package. A conventional oil, with a superior additive package, will do your engine more good than a synthetic oil with a mediocre additive package. So says Royal Purple.

For my 2016 DGC, Chrysler says to not go more on an oil change than 10,000 miles, using conventional oil with no additional miles for using synthetic. I target my oil changes for around 6,000 miles using conventional oil but, speaking of experiments and using the vehicle's oil monitoring system, my van went 9,500 miles on an oil change, a couple years back. Your 8,000 miles using synthetic oil is not pushing any limits unless your engine is idling a lot and not showing miles for it. Is it a taxi or pursuit vehicle? :)

Yes, you are throwing away money and the additional detergents, or dispersants, in the diesel engine oil may not be good for your engine or exhaust system. I don't know but here's an article worth reading.
Comparing Gasoline and Diesel Engine Oils

Some choices to consider in 5W-30 or 5W-40 viscosity
Rotella Gas Truck oil (synthetic)
Rotella Multi-Vehicle oil (synthetic)
Super Tech 5W-40 European Formula (synthetic by Warren Industries) The winner for price. Using it in my Jeep.
Valvoline Daily Protection 5W-30 (conventional with some synthetic blended in) My choice for the Van
The last hyped-up motor oil I would choose would be Mobil 1.

Ever consider running your oil filter for two oil changes? I'm doing that for my Van using FRAM higher end filters rated for 15,000 miles. Why waste a high end filter media? Reducing my carbon footprint in the process. :)
Thank you Jeepman. First, thank you for the article. The 01 T&C is used for long communities to families’ houses, and Amazon deliveries. (I live in the High Desert) I have read the article. So, it looks like the diesel oil may damage the rings and with extra detergents but protects the bearings with extra zinc. It may in fact not be a good fit. I could try long term just to see what happens but maybe I will do that in the next 4th gen van I am getting soon. I like how you recommend Super Tech oil. I did not know there was a European version! I am trying it next oil change. Their quality and price was proven on a YouTube channel. I believe it was a channel called “Project Farm” but don’t remember. The higher end 15,000-mile farm filter is a good idea as well. I am addicted to Purolator oil filters as they are nearly identical to bosh. I can see you had great results with your recommendations.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Reyada, what are you trying to do? Why not get Mobile One Extended Life motor oil, and go for your 15K oil change intervals, that is as long as your van gets driven on the highway at least a couple of times per week.
I did not know about this oil. I am excited to try this soon! I should have added that oil in my 02 Lexus rx300 as oil changes are a nightmare. The oil filer is in between a motor mount and exhaust manifold with guaranteed spillage all over plastic panels. I am sure I will have to add between intervals. I will monitor oil color as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
My opinion, going 8,000 miles between oil changes is not a bad idea; using diesel motor oil in a gasoline motor is a bad idea.

I have run synthetic oil at 8,000 to 9,000 mile intervals for over 30 years and have not had an engine failure (knock on wood). Had a '97 go to 290,000 miles and an '04 go to 240,000. Current stable has an '06 at 198,000 and an '02 at 180,000 and a low mileage '06 at 136,000. I won't count my '14 with 66,000 miles, just broken in. My '14 will go 7,000 to 9,000 miles before the oil change monitor lights up (over 70% highway driving).

Note that diesel fuel is more of a lubricant and gasoline is more of a solvent. The diesel additive package is designed to clean the cylinder walls more which could be detrimental to a gasoline motor which relies on the thin oil film for lubrication and compression where as the diesel fuel itself provides some of the needed oil film for lubrication and compression (one of the reasons a diesel motor can run compression ratio upwards of 14:1)
You have a solid point about the diesel oil. Do any of your vans happen to have the 3.8L? I was told this it is less reliable then the one 3.0 Mitsubishi engine but not sure that it is true. I had great luck with Mitsubishi engines. They tick like mad but last. I have the infamous harmless cold start piston slap on all my previous 3.8L's but so far so good and very reliable
 

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It's good oil, I used it to arrest progressive and severe cam wear on a TDI engine and it almost completely stopped additional wear. The T6 is probably just as good. These oils offer higher TBN numbers which allow them to reduce/postpone the formation of acidic conditions. I have gone as long as 10k miles in the TDI but probably should have stuck to something a little shorter. I may be wrong, but I would not hesitate to use either of them in a gas engine as I doubt the addional cleaning agents incorporated withing the diesel oil would do measurable harm to a gas engine.
There are an awful lot of very highly stressed gasoline motorcycle engines being run on the T6, which is a JASO Ma2 certified oil, suitable for gas engines that incorporate converters within their emissions systems
 

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You have a solid point about the diesel oil. Do any of your vans happen to have the 3.8L? I was told this it is less reliable then the one 3.0 Mitsubishi engine but not sure that it is true. I had great luck with Mitsubishi engines. They tick like mad but last. I have the infamous harmless cold start piston slap on all my previous 3.8L's but so far so good and very reliable
I've been lurking/contributing on this board for over 15 years now and while there are certainly some "Mitsusquishy" fans on this forum, my unofficial tally of issues reported here suggests the 3.3 and 3.8 liter twins are F-A-R more reliable and long-lived compared to the Mitsu 3.0 engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It's good oil, I used it to arrest progressive and severe cam wear on a TDI engine and it almost completely stopped additional wear. The T6 is probably just as good. These oils offer higher TBN numbers which allow them to reduce/postpone the formation of acidic conditions. I have gone as long as 10k miles in the TDI but probably should have stuck to something a little shorter. I would not hesitate to use them in a gas engine.
I just found out about some pros and cons, mostly cons of using the wrong oil package today (diesel vs gasoline). Did you find a certain brand of oil prevents/ slows the progress of carbon buildup on intakes? I have a 3.0L bluetech Benz. Just found out about a TSB from oil causing timing chains problems on many BENZ engines. Not sure if there was a TSB for Cam Shaft issues involving VW TDI engines due to Oil package. I know Of the 3.0L diesel oil in Jeep/ram Diesels.
 

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I just found out about some pros and cons, mostly cons of using the wrong oil package today (diesel vs gasoline). Did you find a certain brand of oil prevents/ slows the progress of carbon buildup on intakes? I have a 3.0L bluetech Benz. Just found out about a TSB from oil causing timing chains problems on many BENZ engines. Not sure if there was a TSB for Cam Shaft issues involving VW TDI engines due to Oil package. I know Of the 3.0L diesel oil in Jeep/ram Diesels.
I don't know of anything that will stop that intake build-up....blackest/gooiest stuff on the planet. The TDI Golf I inherited maintenance over was a 2005, with known camshaft wear issues. That particular TDI (BEW engine) had been serviced at a Speed-Lube-type place and the wrong oil was used, which likely initiated the wear I mentioned. The TDT oil almost stopped the wear and I had the engine for another 150k miles. VW pretended to know nothing of the cam issue and the manual that came with the car actually spe'd the incorrect oil. This is a major reason why I look after my own equipment, I have nobody else to blame but myself.
The 3.3 is a decent motor, even if it does come from a problematic company.
 

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The 3.0L has a timing belt. That would kill the deal for me. The timing chained 3.3L and 3.8L are known for their noise and toughness or toughness and noise. :)

Quieting Down Chrysler’s Versatile 3.3L And 3.8L Engines

Dodge Caravan & Chrysler Minivan Engine Noise
 

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I've been lurking/contributing on this board for over 15 years now and while there are certainly some "Mitsusquishy" fans on this forum, my unofficial tally of issues reported here suggests the 3.3 and 3.8 liter twins are F-A-R more reliable and long-lived compared to the Mitsu 3.0 engines.
All 3 engines share the same hydraulic lifter issues. All 3 share the same poor valve stem seal design that causes oil use.

The 3.0s do tend to need HGs in the early years due to torque issues, but once replaced and torqued to the correct 80 ft-lbs, they never have issue again.

The 3.3/3.8s eat intake gaskets like candy.

The 3.3/3.8s don't take well to being continually abused, whereas the 3.0 not only take well to it, it can handle substantial power increases without opening the motor up.

The 3.3/3.8s PCV system is prone to failure, which will lead to a destroyed engine.

I've had a lot of these vans and a lot of other vehicles with all 3 engines, the 3.0s have always been reliable, even when well over 200k miles, meanwhile I've lost 1/2 a dozen 3.3/3.8s to various causes.

People like to wax poetic about the 3.3/3.8, but in reality, they are no more or less trouble than the 3.0, and they are far less stout if you're hard on vehicles.
 

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The 3.0L has a timing belt. That would kill the deal for me. The timing chained 3.3L and 3.8L are known for their noise and toughness or toughness and noise. :)

Quieting Down Chrysler’s Versatile 3.3L And 3.8L Engines

Dodge Caravan & Chrysler Minivan Engine Noise
The 3.0s have a timing belt, but they are non-interference, so it's something you run until the water pump starts leaking. Then you change the belt, the pump, and the tensioner.
 

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All 3 engines share the same hydraulic lifter issues. All 3 share the same poor valve stem seal design that causes oil use.

The 3.0s do tend to need HGs in the early years due to torque issues, but once replaced and torqued to the correct 80 ft-lbs, they never have issue again.

The 3.3/3.8s eat intake gaskets like candy.

The 3.3/3.8s don't take well to being continually abused, whereas the 3.0 not only take well to it, it can handle substantial power increases without opening the motor up.

The 3.3/3.8s PCV system is prone to failure, which will lead to a destroyed engine.

I've had a lot of these vans and a lot of other vehicles with all 3 engines, the 3.0s have always been reliable, even when well over 200k miles, meanwhile I've lost 1/2 a dozen 3.3/3.8s to various causes.

People like to wax poetic about the 3.3/3.8, but in reality, they are no more or less trouble than the 3.0, and they are far less stout if you're hard on vehicles.
I'm not sure where you are getting your information, but it doesn't line up, even remotely with A) my experience, or B) the experience of the (literally) tens of thousands of members on this board who've driven vans with both engines.
 

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Merry Christmas everyone, I'm out of this Thread. Ha, ha

🎄🤶🎅
 
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