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Just changed my oil. Today I used 5w40 Mobil one Diesel oil. Can I go 8,000mi on a change? (experiment)

17K views 212 replies 27 participants last post by  Jeepman 
#1 ·
I usually change the oil between 4,000-6000mi. (70 percent highway miles) Synthetic oil will be changed at the 6,000-mile interval. I am trying something new. I was originally going to use Shell Rotella T6 but I can’t find any. So, I am trying the diesel oil form Mobil one. I am not sure if I am throwing money away, but I am hoping to go up to 8,000 mi because I assume the diesel oil has more additives for wear and tear. I want to know your knowledge and opinion if 8,000mi intervals is a bad idea. I know some people use 5w20 on some years, but I think those engines burn a bit of oil. Heck I dont mind using 5w30 cheap oil if it can make it 5,000 miles.
 
#117 · (Edited)
I agree these Chrysler/dodge/ram Vans take abuse and go on real road trips and do long distance travel. They have been proven reliable. The reclining leather seats in the back mean the most being a passenger in traffic. My family and I have a very special bond with the T&C. I have suffered medical conditions where I had to be in traffic and go long distance. I felt very safe in the back seat and comfortable due to the heavy weight of the van. I took my mom grandmother, brother, and sister to the emergency room in this van and they would stay in the back seat reclined waiting to get to the hospital. This van Is basically our ambulance as well. When ever I pick family up to bring them to my house they always say bring “the van”. They never ask for the Tahoe or Mercedes lol
 
#118 ·
UPDATE 1300 miles later. Oil Is still pretty clean I am shocked. 1qt low. A little more smoke on startup so it must be flowing faster. No change in fuel economy. given the price I think I can put in the cheaper full syn walmart oil. I belive if I use a qt of regualr 5w30 I have to change the oil sooner. I am using the prius more since the gas in my area is $5.39 a Gal. There is no reason for gas to be that high.
 
#120 ·
Are you happy with the Super Tech 5W-40 European Formula? For a 2007 DGC 3.8L, I was familiar with, it seemed to lower oil consumption. Being a little heavier at operating temperature, that makes some sense. Are you saying your engine is using more oil now?
 
#122 ·
To be honest I think the gas prices going up becuase the war is an excuse to make more money in a sneaky way for the USA. It seems that a pipe line always leaks when the gas prices go down. I believe the oil embargo was all made up too. This is my opinion, and I could be wrong. I am open to any comments on this :). Many other countries use e85 and propane. I don’t know why diesel is more expensive than gas. Isn’t it cheaper to make??
 
#123 ·
Whatever the market will bare = profiteering opportunities. The divesting in fossil fuels has come way too early to allow the change over to renewable energy to catch up, or even come close to the energy stability that we need to SUSTAIN OUR LIFESTYLES. Nobody thought about/prepared for Russia declaring war on Ukraine. Well, nobody is thinking clearly - period - too much political fog. Pipe lines are still needed to support our lifestyles (case closed). Closing down nuclear power plants, in RESPONSE TO PROTESTS/ACTIVISTS, has been very short sighted, just ask Germany, who still can't get their head around their mistake. The opportunists are making $ off of the poor planning and short term, politically driven, decision making. Politics is the ENEMY WITHIN.

A recent tanker load of Russian oil, headed to the refinery at Saint John N.B. was turned back and ended up in the Bahamas, apparently, due to the Canadian Government's recent premature embargo on Russian oil. I hope the PM consulted with Irving Oil in Saint John, as to an alternate oil supply, before making that decision. We have no oil pipe line east of Quebec, or does he not remember that. :( The US hasn't gone that far yet for fear of backlash. Europe can't function without oil/gas from Russia. The energy suppliers (opportunists) are having a hay day, watching your wallet get thinner and thinner.

Russian-owned oil tankers reroute from Canada after ban shuts access to ports
The tankers are the first Russian-owned oil vessels to change course after Canada ratcheted up pressure on Russia for its invasion of Ukraine

U.S. may act alone to ban Russian oil imports, sources say

Guess Canada doesn't count. Oh, the journalistic integrity of Media reporting?

In Canada we don't have an east to west or west to east oil pipe line connecting our four Atlantic provinces to the rest of Canada, thanks to Quebec and protesters/activists, or put a more truthful way - politics. The Keystone pipeline? I won't go down that rabbit hole other than say "politics".

Look at the recent "no vote" to nenewable power development from Quebec down into Maine and beyond. Unreal and politically activist/protester driven. Boggles my mind but that's where we are these days. Hug the trees but it's ok to burn them in biomass power plants. Who's making $ off of those plants?

We have to put up with the market instability/politics/profiteering or CHANGE OUR LIFESTYLES and control the market. That ain't going to happen unless COVID-22 hits us.

So, here we are in Tijuana Jail. :)
The Kingston Trio: Tijuana Jail
 
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#124 ·
Hitler invaded the Caucasus to get oil. Japan invaded Malaysia to get oil. WW2 was partly a war about oil. The price of gas at the pump will continue to go up as long as the war continues. Gas is now the highest its been since 2008. Conservation is the easiest lever to pull while increasing domestic production is slow and takes years.
 
#125 ·
Gas is now the highest its been since 2008.
Consider yourself lucky. We are seeing the highest ever. $2.10 a litre.
About for litres equals 1 US gallon = about $8.40 for one US gallon. Mind you that is in Canadian dollars but still...

 
#127 ·
5W or 10W is only at startup. Give your engine 6 minutes and your 5W approaches 10 and the 10W approaches 15.
Both will approach 30 come 18 minutes. :)
 
#128 ·
Not as I understand it. The flow is set by the 1st value and the 2nd value is determined by shear/film strength enhancement additives. The fluid does not thicken and flow as a 30 weight oil when it warms, rather it retains the film strength of a 30 weight while still flowing as a 5W.
 
#131 ·
Once again with feeling, any oil 'thins' when it gets hot. A 5W40 oil works like a 5 weight oil at say 20 F, and works like a 40 weight oil at 200 F. The thing to remember is that a 40 weight oil at 200 F is 'thinner' than a 5 weight at 20 F.

For the OP and maybe Jeepman, Amsoil is mostly marketing, and they probably buy their base stocks from a major refiner. They then add their own additive package to make the magical Amsoil. That said, it's probably fine oil. It is just not magic!
 
#132 ·
Once again with feeling, any oil 'thins' when it gets hot. A 5W40 oil works like a 5 weight oil at say 20 F, and works like a 40 weight oil at 200 F. The thing to remember is that a 40 weight oil at 200 F is 'thinner' than a 5 weight at 20 F**

For the OP and maybe Jeepman, Amsoil is mostly marketing, and they probably buy their base stocks from a major refiner. They then add their own additive package to make the magical Amsoil. That said, it's probably fine oil. It is just not magic!
** Yes, tis so true. They should do pouring tests demonstrating that. :)
In this lane we have 5W-X at -40C/F and in this lane we have 40 at 93C/200F
Oops, the low temperature oil, synthetic or conventional, isn't moving unless it's a Base IV synthetic with a Pour Point of -50C or whatever.
Are synthetic base oils magic?

Refined base oil plus additive package plus blending plus packaging = final product. EXCEPT Group IV base oil is a synthetic base oil made through a process called synthesizing, not refining.

Per: https://thelubepage.com/amsoil-maga...m-and-synthetic-oil-base-stocks-and-additives
Today, most petroleum base stock oils come from Group II (see table A). Group II oils are a definite improvement over Group I oils and current petroleum based oils are much better than those of 20 years ago. Synthetics are a little more varied than petroleum base stocks and are split between Group III hydro-cracked petroleum (addressed in the Summer ‘08 issue), PAO’s and Esters. Today, most synthetics for motor oils are made using Group III base stocks. Mobil and Amsoil continue to use Group IV PAOs (Amsoil blends Ester with PAO) with Redline oils coming primarily from Group V Esters.

I don't know if that information is accurate anymore, the marketing fog rolls in. Group IV is truly synthetic, Group III isn't.
 
#134 ·
You're right. First number is base viscosity (cold) second is operating viscosity. 5W-30 is a 5 "weight" oil that performs like a 30 when warmed up. The oil actually gets thinner as it warms up, but if you were to warm up SAE 30 and 5W-30 to the same temperature, SAE 30 would be noticeably thicker, but the amount of compressive pressure they can withstand is roughly the same.
 
#135 ·
You're right. First number is base viscosity (cold) second is operating viscosity. 5W-30 is a 5 "weight" oil that performs like a 30 when warmed up. The oil actually gets thinner as it warms up, but if you were to warm up SAE 30 and 5W-30 to the same temperature, SAE 30 would be noticeably thicker, but the amount of compressive pressure they can withstand is roughly the same.
"noticeably thicker" meaning what? A conventional oil may be stickier than a synthetic, but when comparing say conventional oils, aren't the flow rates at operating temperature the same i.e. say 30? Don't the numbers 5, 10, 30 or whatever relate more to flow rates rather than viscosity? Same would apply to synthetic oils. Just sayin. :)

The numbers are assigned to the oils based on the rate at which they flow at different temperatures, i.e., flow rate within a temperature range. The number could be 0,5,10, 20, 30…, 60. The number is a factor of the oil’s viscosity. The lower the grade or number, the thinner and less the viscosity of the oil.
The second number to the right (40 in this example) represents the kinematic viscosity at a normal engine operating temperature, usually 100 degrees C. The lower the kinematic viscosity number, the thinner the oil. For example, a 5W-40 oil will be thinner in cold temperatures than a 15W-40, but at normal operating temperatures both oils will flow the same.
The SAE 30 Oil Guide (What It Is + 13 FAQs)
9. Can I Use 5W-30 Instead Of SAE 30?
Both oils have a “30” hot viscosity rating.
This means SAE 5W-30 oil has the same flow rate as SAE 30 at operating temp. So, technically it’s fine to use SAE 5W-30 oil in place of SAE 30.
Film strength can be described as the lubricant’s ability to lessen the effects of friction and control wear by means other than the film thickness. As mentioned, the viscosity is the primary contributor to film thickness during hydrodynamic and elastohydrodynamic lubrication.
Look to the additive package for film strength, especially with low viscosity oils.
 
#137 ·
Maybe so. I'm no expert. :)
My Jeep Owner's Manual says 10W-30 is preferred but use 5W-30 when temperatures are very cold. That seems to imply that 30 is a 30 at operating temperature regardless.
Are you saying that a 5W-40 would be more equivalent to a 10W-30 at opertaing temperature?
 
#141 ·
Maybe so. I'm no expert. :)
My Jeep Owner's Manual says 10W-30 is preferred but use 5W-30 when temperatures are very cold. That seems to imply that 30 is a 30 at operating temperature regardless.
Are you saying that a 5W-40 would be more equivalent to a 10W-30 at opertaing temperature?
I haven’t seen a Canadian owners manual recommendation, I am sure they allow slightly thicker vs the 0w16-0w20 USA common oil . I think we a oil have a stigma here for oil in the USA lol
 
#140 · (Edited)
Not sure if they are any European, German or Russian Chrysler users here. They may have a wider range. In Germany 5w30- 20w50 is recommended for a Toyota Prius. Yes, a PRIUS according to the German owner’s manual. I think the USA will follow EPA for CAFE first rather than durability. I am currently looking for the Euro oil reccomendation for chsyler vans to post. Remember when Dodge and Jeep 3.0L diesels spun bearings then the next model just happen to require a ‘’thicker oil’’? ( I will add the video I found) When I bought 20w50 at AutoZone the guy said it will ruin my Prius engine. Same with the Van. Sure enough, it did not. It just slowed the oil burning and saved me money. (Dello $12.50 for 5 Qts.) I did not notice any difference in fuel economy using 5w30 syn- 15w40 diesel oil on the prius. 20w50 yes minus (1-1.5 mpg) I am sure if it was new and the engine blew the Toyota dealer here will say wrong oil was the cause of the engine damage to the Prius, yet it is the Exact same engine in Germany. I wonder if the 3.3L in other countires were made here? I assume they are reliable as well. Diesel oil can cause LSPI on GDI engines due to high calcium but not sure about regular engines. The reason I am using the Prius as an example is becasue it is supose to get great fuel economy. It also has VVT-I so it requires good flow to adjust the valves. So far, no LSPI on my Chrysler Van. I wonder if I should try engine restore soon on the good ol 3.8L? I know it can increase compression, but I been having the lifter tick on startup and don’t want to blow another one. It has really loud piston slap as well. Reason being, I want to increase compression to increase fuel economy. Maby this thicker oil will lower piston slap? As of now i am still happy with the diesel oil. Anyone know if thicker oil by itself increases compression?

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#142 ·
I really like this graph. It is simple and makes sense. Not sure if this is different now due to new oils. The new 0-16 oil is said to have more additives to prevent damage in high temps. I have not seen any tests to confirm that. 0w16 for heavy towing seems kind of crazy for me. But I don’t know much yet about this new formula or new bearing designs.
 
#144 ·
Viscosity and wear are related. Lower the oil's viscosity and something has to be added to make up for it. Moror oil is a brew. The additive package makes up a significent % of its volume (10%-30%).

Here's what Lubrizol said back in 2014:
Low Viscosity SAE 16 Oils Will Require Cutting-edge Additive Technology to Address Wear Challenges
However, ultra-low viscosity grade oils can create durability challenges.

These lubricants will produce significant fuel economy benefits for many engine applications, but because of their low viscosity grade, there is the potential for wear or other durability related issues.

The future proposed ultra-low viscosity GF-6B specification requires the same durability performance as the proposed GF-6A. This may require enhanced fortification of specific additive components or a different formulation shape to deliver the required durability in SAE XW-16 fluids.”
Lubricant Additives - A Practical Guide
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#146 ·
Aimsoil Signature Series Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid -
Flash Point °C (°F) (ASTM/Colonel Shanders College de Chicken Knowledge)234 (453)
Chifts delight. Cooking will never be smoother.
:)
 
#152 ·
I am not at the 10,000 miles yet. It is black. I assume I can keep going? 4,700 miles. I guess the diesel oil Is cleaning the engine thats why it is dark. I did mostly highway miles. View attachment 65740
You're down well over a quart if that reading on the stick is correct. Oil volume plays a role in oil life and effectiveness. I usually change mine if it gets that low, don't see the value in adding new oil when the oil is getting close to change time anyway. Colour means absolutely nothing. In my little VW diesel it was black as can be within 100 km.
Are you planning on having a test done on the used oil?
 
#150 ·
Color looks normal. Some darken up quickly, others take their time.

Try some Mobil 1. :)
 
#151 ·
You don't go buy color. you have to have the oil lab tested to find out how well it's protection your engine. If it still has the oil additives in the oil. Also, a really good oil filter helps.
 
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#157 · (Edited)
8 MONTH UPDATE:

First of all, It has been extremely nice not having to change the oil every 3-5 months as it would be using conventional oil. Time is becoming more valuable to me as I am now getting older. Possibly more important than money itself. As silly as it sounds, an oil change interval can determine how much time of my life I can waste/use. For example, if I do 3 oil changes a year using conventional @ 1.5 hours each, that comes out to 4.5 hours a year wasted vs just 1.5 hours. That includes the time going to Walmart. But with that in mind it seems that I am sacrificing a little bit of money having to add more oil frequently as the oil burning is getting faster as the oil gets older. I am going to use a Full Syn high millage blend next time SuperTec brand. Not sure if it makes finically sense to use a oil additive yet... Using a cheaper oil like the Walmart Super saves money big time so adding oil here and there is not too big of a deal. The car has been ticking on startups, so I am going to pull the dipstick and check the Level. I am getting close the 10,000 miles/12 month mark. One important think I forgot to mention in the past, is what is the reccomended Idle time? Even though I mainly drive on the Highway, I do tend to idle to keep the A/C going
 
#158 ·
Don't be surprised if it's down on oil.

High mileage oils are nothing special, generally more expensive. Something for the oil companies to market to make more $. Synthetic blends are likely low on the synthetic component. Even conventional oils, like Valvoline Daily Protection 5W-30, are synthetic blends now days.

If you are using 5W-40, I would stick with that. I can get Super Tech full synthetic 5W-40 European formula here at a low price.

I have 5W-35 in my Van now. It'a a blend, my blend. :)
 
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