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Normally I use a Mopar oil filter but I stopped at Walmart yesterday for oil and a filter and surprisingly the K&N was $1.33 less than the Mopar filter.
Just an FYI.
 

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My qualitative comparison.

 

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K&N generally touts flow over filtration, whether it's their air or oil filters. Their filter media is synthetic however, so the porosity is uniform where paper media is random (just due to how paper is made). Possibly they get by with less pleats for that reason, I don't know. I change the oil every 5000 miles anyway, which is overkill. Currently using Super Tech 5w-30 synthetic and the used oil analysis came back fine. Frams are cheaper but I wouldn't even use one of those on my lawnmower.
 

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FRAMs are original equipment on Hondas and that's not Honda lawnmowers that I am referring to. :) Didn't K&N use to be made by Champion, and didn't FRAM purchase Champion?
 

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FRAMs are original equipment on Hondas and that's not Honda lawnmowers that I am referring to. :) Didn't K&N use to be made by Champion, and didn't FRAM purchase Champion?
K&N and Mobil 1 filters were made by Champion but I have not heard that they were bought by Fram.
 

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The Walmarts around me are clearing out the Mobil one filters that fit my 2013 van, only $3.99
 

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9 times out of 10 when I buy a filter it's a FRAM for $3-4. Been using them 40+ years and I'm still waiting for that first problem that some seem to have with them.
 

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I just discovered that there is a HP and a PS version of our filter from K&N. I was aware of that for can style filters, and I thought it primarily the can with or without the nut on the end being the difference. The HP version is about twice the price on Amazon. I don't know what the difference is in this case. The batch I had were PS. I'm due to buy more filters before the next oil change soon, so I was looking just now.
 

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9 times out of 10 when I buy a filter it's a FRAM for $3-4. Been using them 40+ years and I'm still waiting for that first problem that some seem to have with them.
Great statistics RIP. Bet nobody else on here has that amount of experience with another brand of oil filter. :)
 

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9 times out of 10 when I buy a filter it's a FRAM for $3-4. Been using them 40+ years and I'm still waiting for that first problem that some seem to have with them.
You can use any filter you want on 3.3l, 3.8l or 4.0l engines, but not on 3.6l engines.

For some strange reason, 3.6l engines don't like filters other than Mopar. You can use other brands, but eventually you will get a code.

Why risk it just to save a dollar or two?
 

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There's a reason most of the dealerships have tsb's on how to deal with customer reports of engine noise. First step is to look for and replace aftermarket oil filters with oem to see if issue resolves. They don't always, but have certainly been known to cause issues. Aftermarket filters are made to work with so many diffeent engines that it makes me nervous. I'd rather get the one that is made for my engine specs exactly.

Funny story on our Hyundai Sonata. I took it to the dealer for an oil change a few months back. When i got it home I looked over the paperwork and saw that they used a premium guard brand filter. Cost of filter was listed at like $12. I took car back and said I wanted OEM filter not aftermarket. They said this is an "oem equivilant". They changed it out for oem though without issue. I then walked to parts dept and asked for price on oem filter and it was $10. So they are charging more for the aftermarket "oem equivilant". I'm sure they get them much cheaper but make more profit on them. Even Chrysler dealers do this with the mopar marelli brand. If I want aftermarket I'll go to oil change place in town and save a couple hours of time going to dealership!
 

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There's a reason most of the dealerships have tsb's on how to deal with customer reports of engine noise. First step is to look for and replace aftermarket oil filters with oem to see if issue resolves. They don't always, but have certainly been known to cause issues. Aftermarket filters are made to work with so many diffeent engines that it makes me nervous. I'd rather get the one that is made for my engine specs exactly.

Funny story on our Hyundai Sonata. I took it to the dealer for an oil change a few months back. When i got it home I looked over the paperwork and saw that they used a premium guard brand filter. Cost of filter was listed at like $12. I took car back and said I wanted OEM filter not aftermarket. They said this is an "oem equivilant". They changed it out for oem though without issue. I then walked to parts dept and asked for price on oem filter and it was $10. So they are charging more for the aftermarket "oem equivilant". I'm sure they get them much cheaper but make more profit on them. Even Chrysler dealers do this with the mopar marelli brand. If I want aftermarket I'll go to oil change place in town and save a couple hours of time going to dealership!
100% correct.

This is the part some people can not understand, filter manufacturers make one filter to fit as many applications as they can, that means it may not exactly fit any of them, but still works on all of them. Chrysler 3.6 engine might sense this is not the exact filter and throws a P06DD code (regardless of what an ignorant extraterrestrial guy say).
 

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As wrong as an oil filter can theoretically go, I think people get too defensive about their preferred choice. OEM is a good choice, sure. They aren't going to put filters in warrantied engines that are gonna increase risk of a failure they have to pay for. But are they really safer than everything else? We don't really know they are the only good choice. Evidence is really anecdotal. From what I've seen anyway. Someone posts a bad review with pics on Amazon: 1 failure. People are a lot more likely to provide feedback when their one particular specimen did poorly. I've had 6 K&Ns in the van now with no failures, but I can only post one review on Amazon. Look around, you can probably find a review of an OEM filter with the same failure.

I stick with perceived quality names. I've used ACDelco, K&N, Purolater PureOne, Mopar, Mobil1. Probably others among my different cars, never had any issues.

More info here on the differences between K&N's filters. Side note, they have a cabin filter. We can filter-charge our HVAC!! lol

 

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As wrong as an oil filter can theoretically go, I think people get too defensive about their preferred choice. OEM is a good choice, sure. They aren't going to put filters in warrantied engines that are gonna increase risk of a failure they have to pay for. But are they really safer than everything else? We don't really know they are the only good choice. Evidence is really anecdotal. From what I've seen anyway. Someone posts a bad review with pics on Amazon: 1 failure. People are a lot more likely to provide feedback when their one particular specimen did poorly. I've had 6 K&Ns in the van now with no failures, but I can only post one review on Amazon. Look around, you can probably find a review of an OEM filter with the same failure.
As I stated before, I got that code but low/high oil pressures were correct, I drove many miles pulling a trailer without any problems. Finally, a Mexican Chrysler dealer replaced the filter for a OE filter and problem solved. A USA Chrysler dealer wanted to replace the oil pump.

Welcome to the forum.

Check your pressures on both, low and high RPM's, if OK, then, don't worry.

On my case, I was using Wix filters, no problems gor many changes but one day, right after oil and filter change I got that code along With the C.E.L. I ran it like that for many, many miles, until I visited a dealer in Mexico, they told me that I had the wtong brand of filter, replaced it at not charge and few miles later the C.E.L. banished.

Good luck!
Filter fixed my issue.

I just had the exact problem on my 2012 GC Crew model with the 3.6. I did replace the oil pressure sensor but ultimately replacing the filter with the Mopar branded one corrected the issue for me.

Sometimes it would throw the vehicle into somewhat of a "limp mode". Not the stuck in 2nd gear limp mode but one where the engine is not allowed to auto downshift and also not allow the engine to get over 3500 rpm. Pulling over and turning the engine off for a second would reset this.

This is due to the "possible" oil pressure issue from the P06dd code and the engine trying to preserve itself. The oil pump is a two stage setup and its my understanding that the first stage is up to 3500 rpm and thats why it will not allow it to go over that rpm. Not allowing it to auto downshift is just another way to keep the rpm's from spiking.
 
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