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Knock knock tick tick

1062 Views 31 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  gravitylover
15 DGC 3.6

I've pretty much lost confidence in this engine as the knock on cold startup has gotten much worse. The tick hasn't really changed in 10k miles but it is annoying and I'm pretty sure it's too late to save the cam(s). The knock goes away once it's warmed up and it actually runs nicely, other than the tick, but the power isn't what I think it should be.

I'm planning on replacing it with a used motor with a guarantee because it's not really much more expensive than doing the rockers, lifters and a cam or two. Here's a video, let me know what you think. (Hopefully this link works because I can't figure out how to post a video)
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How many total miles? Looks like the original oil filter housing. If you elect to repair, I would swap that oil filter housing while in there. To me it would come down to the overall miles on the engine as to which way to swing. ...I am sure this is in my future. I have 108k miles on it and if I make it to 150k it will be the whole motor.
170k miles. I would for sure, along with a bunch of other stuff. Someone will probably call out the cracked upper intake too, I already have a replacement in anticipation.
For the number of 3.6l Pentastar's out there it's amazing there hasn't been a class action lawsuit.
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That knock sounds cam related also. You'll probably find a rocker with no bearing at all left in it.
Which would explain the lagginess and power loss under certain loads.

I wish I knew someone that could help me do the work to solve it but, as I said, the cost to replace it with a low mile, guaranteed motor is surprisingly low. I'll do a bunch of deferred maintenance while it's out of the way and hopefully have a van that's good for another 50k+. I'll also be able to keep this engine if I want to so I would be able to repair it without having a disabled rig sitting in the driveway. Not that I have a good place to keep it while I do that though :(
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Alright, following up. The motor is out and it's replacement is incoming. I went to the shop today and pulled the top stuff off to see how bad it is. There is one totally collapsed rocker and another that's rattley. Someone somewhat recently replaced 5 or 6 rockers based on thoroughly worn out cams that they hoped would hold up (they didn't). The oil cooler housing has a small leak at the base of the filter part (that will probably get worse) and the lower intake gasket was twisted which explains the intermittent lean code and lagginess.
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Thanks for following up.

How much was the replacement? How long to pull the motor?
Low mile (80-90k) replacement motor with 6 month guarantee is $3k installed. I'm having them do a bunch of extras while there's space, all 4 mounts, struts, control arms, sway links, new plugs/boots, thermostat, pcv, filters, trans pan with drain plug and 7 liters of new fluid with new filter, new belt and tensioner for an extra few hundred bucks. I supplied all of the new parts so all in it will be about $4500.

I wasn't there when they pulled the motor so I don't know. Sorry.
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Well, it's done. I got a 2016 motor with 67k miles and it runs great. With all the other work done and a really good alignment it's like a totally different vehicle. If this is what it's supposed to feel like I'm good with it :) I do need to put 2 oz of shudder fix in though, just like last time I changed the tranny fluid it shakes in reverse going uphill and this time it took a little over 9 liters so I'll give it a day or two to settle but I think it needs it.
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"A little over 9 liters" (9.5 quarts)? Overfilled?

Capacity:6 speed 62TE Total Fill 9 quarts.
Capacity:5.5 quarts Initial Fill.
Good catch, Jeepman. That may be the cause of the shudder. Too much fluid can cause aeration which can make things bounce around inside the transmission because the fluid pushing on the valves is interrupted by air bubbles.
I'll check in the morning, I had the same thought. The only thing I can think that would have had them put so much in is the pan was off for a day and a half and it just kept draining. I had the pan off overnight last summer and it took 7 quarts when I refilled it.
You can't drain out everything... and if you could you still wouldn't need more than the total capacity. About 7 is the most I've ever put in, no matter how long it drained.
You can't drain out everything... and if you could you still wouldn't need more than the total capacity. About 7 is the most I've ever put in, no matter how long it drained.
I figure I'll use a siphon pump and pull it out the filler tube a half quart at a time.
Get a "cold" reading using your motor oil dipstick. Run the engine for 15 minutes and take a reading to see if it's between 4 mm and 20 mm (80F)

Could do a "cold turkey" reading as well if it's not a too cold ambient temperature, say above 50F.
I did a cold turkey this morning, at 50° F it was about 105. I'll try it again later when I'm out and have it warmed up and I can stop somewhere flat. That 105 is about 10mm higher than I had it before so I'm guessing it's close to a quart high.
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It seems to be better, just took some getting used to a full fluid change I guess. The guy used the cooler hoses to do a full change so that's good I guess. I went back and pulled the oil pan to see what I could see and surprise surprise, there were a few different kinds of metal shavings in there. There was also a magnet like in the tranny pan and it was covered with the stuff from the cams while other stuff was sorta blocking the pickup. I got hosed on the purchase last summer but at this point I'm moving on.
Oh, boy. There's not normally a magnet in the oil pan. They obviously knew the engine had issues. Hopefully it was just the cams and not something else. That magnet may have saved it from sucking up too much metal and causing more damage. Probably not a bad idea for people to throw one in whenever the pan is off for any reason.
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