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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I am new in these parts. So, all of this will start out elaborate and boring.

06 Grand Caravan with a 3.3
237k, salvage vehicle.
I have put 12k on it since I bought it. Guy I got it from broke the key, it was locked in security mode, and he could not figure it out. So I paid I think $280 for it.
What really had me interested, is that at some point in his ownership it overheated on him, and he had the heads replaced and the timing chain done.
Got a key, a battery, slapped some used tires on it, did the alignment myself and rolled.
Since then alternator died. Killed the fusible link. Replaced that with a reman nator and junk yard harness (I am a junk yard fan). PCV valve and cleaned the EGR and pipe.
Been rolling with it since. I have towed a small scrap trailer on occasion with it. And yes, it handles like a boat.
Did remove the intake resonator. 3.8 tb (have a 4.7 tb to slap on soon) and that is really it.

Have some used pacifica struts I plan on slapping on the front to lift it some. Ordered ford windstar sway bar links last night for that.

Besides that, I have a lot of small things to do. I have gotten lazy (Im a UVI tech at a dealer).
Oil pan is leaking and the filter housing is leaking. One of the pulleys is making noise. And its probably due for a trans drain and fill. I have a cooler I want to add also.
On my 3rd set of fans this month. No clue what is going on with that. Swapped fans and relay both times. Still havent figured that out. Probably going to find a bigger fan to slap in and wire it to an aftermarket relay and a temp switch somewhere. A/C is gone. No obvious leaks, so probably the evaporator with my luck. Plus side is, its a dodge so most of the dash is pre broken for me if I decide to fix it. Dash flickers. ABS/Brake lights flash on bumps. I dunno. Probably a voltage issue somewhere. Its intermittent. Hot start sounds like the starter is dragging/heat soaked.

All the bushings and shocks in the rear are almost non existent. Adds to the boat feel. But would like to do something with that in the coming weeks. I have read somewhere that the AWD shackles lift the rear a bit? Maybe I read that wrong. Def interested in that, too.

Done ranting for now. haha

Billy
 

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Well, I am new in these parts. So, all of this will start out elaborate and boring.

06 Grand Caravan with a 3.3
237k, salvage vehicle.
I have put 12k on it since I bought it. Guy I got it from broke the key, it was locked in security mode, and he could not figure it out. So I paid I think $280 for it.
What really had me interested, is that at some point in his ownership it overheated on him, and he had the heads replaced and the timing chain done.
Got a key, a battery, slapped some used tires on it, did the alignment myself and rolled.
Since then alternator died. Killed the fusible link. Replaced that with a reman nator and junk yard harness (I am a junk yard fan). PCV valve and cleaned the EGR and pipe.
Been rolling with it since. I have towed a small scrap trailer on occasion with it. And yes, it handles like a boat.
Did remove the intake resonator. 3.8 tb (have a 4.7 tb to slap on soon) and that is really it.

Have some used pacifica struts I plan on slapping on the front to lift it some. Ordered ford windstar sway bar links last night for that.

Besides that, I have a lot of small things to do. I have gotten lazy (Im a UVI tech at a dealer).
Oil pan is leaking and the filter housing is leaking. One of the pulleys is making noise. And its probably due for a trans drain and fill. I have a cooler I want to add also.
On my 3rd set of fans this month. No clue what is going on with that. Swapped fans and relay both times. Still havent figured that out. Probably going to find a bigger fan to slap in and wire it to an aftermarket relay and a temp switch somewhere. A/C is gone. No obvious leaks, so probably the evaporator with my luck. Plus side is, its a dodge so most of the dash is pre broken for me if I decide to fix it. Dash flickers. ABS/Brake lights flash on bumps. I dunno. Probably a voltage issue somewhere. Its intermittent. Hot start sounds like the starter is dragging/heat soaked.

All the bushings and shocks in the rear are almost non existent. Adds to the boat feel. But would like to do something with that in the coming weeks. I have read somewhere that the AWD shackles lift the rear a bit? Maybe I read that wrong. Def interested in that, too.

Done ranting for now. haha

Billy
Billy,
We have the same ride.
  • I too did the air intake resonator mod. Can't really do the delete because it prevents rain water from soaking the air filter. Thus, I chopped off the back side facing the passenger door.
  • 3.8L TB onto the 3.3L engine. This helps so much for smoother shifting, no trans clunk, no downshift up little inclines, and so much more.
  • I did the rear Dayton Add-A-Leaf and then added the Monroe Coil-Over-Shock for the rear end. Very impressive. Increased load capacity over 700-lbs and raised the back end almost 2 inches.
The van can now coast over 1,200ft from 45mph to a stop sign still doing 20mph at the end. It just keeps rolling. It's like the pinewood derby cars that keep rolling down the track.
  • replaced all wheel bearings all around. smoother ride and better coasting too.
  • replaced tires to the higher load rating for 44psi. No side wall bulging that kills mpg.

I plan on doing the exhaust resonator delete this year.



You can get heated electric mirrors. Just pull-a-part yard, swap and plug in the connector. Or new from RockAuto with 5% discount code.

Healthmate has great heated aftermarket seat covers.

Seafoam the engine to keep in in good condition for 237K miles. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Billy,
We have the same ride.
  • I too did the air intake resonator mod. Can't really do the delete because it prevents rain water from soaking the air filter. Thus, I chopped off the back side facing the passenger door.
  • 3.8L TB onto the 3.3L engine. This helps so much for smoother shifting, no trans clunk, no downshift up little inclines, and so much more.
  • I did the rear Dayton Add-A-Leaf and then added the Monroe Coil-Over-Shock for the rear end. Very impressive. Increased load capacity over 700-lbs and raised the back end almost 2 inches.
The van can now coast over 1,200ft from 45mph to a stop sign still doing 20mph at the end. It just keeps rolling. It's like the pinewood derby cars that keep rolling down the track.
  • replaced all wheel bearings all around. smoother ride and better coasting too.
  • replaced tires to the higher load rating for 44psi. No side wall bulging that kills mpg.

I plan on doing the exhaust resonator delete this year.



You can get heated electric mirrors. Just pull-a-part yard, swap and plug in the connector. Or new from RockAuto with 5% discount code.

Healthmate has great heated aftermarket seat covers.

Seafoam the engine to keep in in good condition for 237K miles. ;)
I did run a Lucas treatment through it the day I acquired it along with a fuel treatment. Did it again like 3 maybe 4 changes after that.
I'm not really looking to get crazy with it. But I just can't leave anything alone.
That add a leaf kit would be great if I was still scrapping everything. Sold my trailer, though. Last haul I had was 3300lbs. Van was not happy at all.
But now that I have dimensions, I may try to find a cheaper option at the junk yard. See if I can find anything similar off an older truck or full size SUV.
I did get a set of load leveling shocks from the bone yard last all you can carry day I went to. Masked the non existent leaf spring bushings in the rear for a bit, but they are starting to go again. Those Monroe's def look like a nice affordable option. I will probably go with those when I do the bushings all at the same time. Planning on swapping the track bar as well, and if I can find a rear sway bar at the yard, add that to the list.

Most of my lug nuts are swollen. So again, if I can find a slightly wider wheel from a junk yard that's a direct bolt on, I wouldn't mind a larger tire, too.

Ultimately I'd like to go UTE with this thing. And I don't mean a professional swap. Just chop it, clean it up, and roll. I figured between the miles and salvage title it's not worth that much anyway.

And yes. A resonator delete is def happening to mine soon. Just want everything else taken care of first. Maybe a different muffler. I might go dual if I can get enough extra pipe for the cheap
 

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Lug nuts - I find them all over the junkyard. I pick up the all steel chrome aftermarket ones lying around, or look on other vehicles like Dodge/Chrysler and GM. I've saved a LOT of the external threaded GM lug nuts, and you can get black, gray, or metal-capped plastic covers that thread over them to dress them up. They are M12 X 1.5 which is also common on imports.

I put a rear sway bar on my 2000 T&C about 12 years ago. All the holes were there, but I had to use 3" diesel exhaust pipe clamps to attach the brackets to the rear tube axle (it was round). I've seen that some 4th gen van rear axles are square tubing though.

I hope those front sway bar end links aren't going to be too short. I used Pacifica struts AND 1 1/4" strut spacers on my van (2004 AWD) and had to experiment to find the right length.
Gas Automotive tire Machine Cylinder Auto part


I could barely squeeze these struts into my van with the control arms pulled all the way down. I still had to use a large C-clamp to pull the top of the knuckle into the clevis to get the upper bolt in. It's actually too much lift for the front stock geometry, and results in vibration, large CV angles and worn tires. I plan to add subframe spacers/drivetrain drop in the future to correct the angles.

My van sitting as I got it. I put Ford Explorer wheels with 235/75R15 tires on it, and they were hitting the fenders and bending them on bumps/holes. I didn't know a previous owner had replaced the struts using the WRONG quick struts meant for the short wheelbase van, making the front sit 1" lower than stock.
Tire Automotive parking light Wheel Car Vehicle


I removed the running boards because the steel frames in them were rusted away/gone. Then I did my lift to try to make the front level with the rear. My parts ended up lifting the front 3" from where I started, or 2" higher than stock.
Automotive parking light Automotive side marker light Wheel Car Tire


I also added black headlights, LED color switchable foglight bulbs, and 1996-1998 Ford Explorer Limited rims with longer studs and spacers to clear the brake calipers.
Automotive parking light Wheel Car Land vehicle Tire


The rear is already high due to the multileaf spring packs and shackles used on AWD vans, and I also removed the rear bench seat and moved the spare tire to the middle inside the van. I added half-leaf helper springs that I already had, and shimmed the one end up with washers instead of the rivet that they provide. I installed them with the rear axle completely unloaded and drooping, to get the most lift.
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


I also found a pair of overload leafs on the rear of a Ford truck in the junkyard that I can add to the rear if I need to. I also have found out the front leaf spring brackets are different (and taller!) in earlier generation vans. The 3rd gen van brackets are around an inch taller and more plentiful. The 2nd gen AWD van brackets are over an inch of lift, but much harder to find. I got one (other was rusted in place), and that was difficult because the yards don't allow jacks/lifting cars or sell leaf springs.
Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Gas

That is a good comparison of how much lower the leaf spring will sit, as the brackets are both touching the frame.

I'm also going SUV - sport utility van. (y) I have an old police push bumper to add to the front sometime, some Cragar soft 8 steel wheels (only 2) with 30" tires, and a Subaru Impreza hood scoop to add for cooling. I've also pulled a 4.0L engine from a Pacifica, and enough parts and electronics from a 3.5L Pacifica to run it on. I also have a 300M Special PCM and key/module to see if I can get that to work with the van; that will give me better shift points and allow me to run true dual exhaust (4 oxygen sensors) if I choose.
Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Automotive parking light


Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle


I had a setback this spring when I hit a deer at 60mph. Luckily because my van was lifted the deer body hit at bumper height and didn't go over the hood. I'm still fixing issues from that.
Automotive parking light Car Grille Motor vehicle Automotive lighting

Tire Car Wheel Vehicle Window


I had to replace the front strut, door and fender, straighten the hood and use an old headlight I had. I still have to replace the front hub that is now growling from the hit, and the replacement strut didn't have an elonged hole to adjust camber. Good thing I was running a junk tire up front, as it's trashed now.

Since you have front wheel drive, you can simply lift the rear with longer bolts and lift blocks between axle tube and leaf spring.

I believe the stow-N-go vans did not have an external fuel filter, but the old flat floor vans with the gas tank on the side do, on top of the tank.

Welcome to the forum. Let's get crazy! :ROFLMAO: :cool: :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lug nuts - I find them all over the junkyard. I pick up the all steel chrome aftermarket ones lying around, or look on other vehicles like Dodge/Chrysler and GM. I've saved a LOT of the external threaded GM lug nuts, and you can get black, gray, or metal-capped plastic covers that thread over them to dress them up. They are M12 X 1.5 which is also common on imports.

I put a rear sway bar on my 2000 T&C about 12 years ago. All the holes were there, but I had to use 3" diesel exhaust pipe clamps to attach the brackets to the rear tube axle (it was round). I've seen that some 4th gen van rear axles are square tubing though.

I hope those front sway bar end links aren't going to be too short. I used Pacifica struts AND 1 1/4" strut spacers on my van (2004 AWD) and had to experiment to find the right length.
View attachment 68051

I could barely squeeze these struts into my van with the control arms pulled all the way down. I still had to use a large C-clamp to pull the top of the knuckle into the clevis to get the upper bolt in. It's actually too much lift for the front stock geometry, and results in vibration, large CV angles and worn tires. I plan to add subframe spacers/drivetrain drop in the future to correct the angles.

My van sitting as I got it. I put Ford Explorer wheels with 235/75R15 tires on it, and they were hitting the fenders and bending them on bumps/holes. I didn't know a previous owner had replaced the struts using the WRONG quick struts meant for the short wheelbase van, making the front sit 1" lower than stock.
View attachment 68052

I removed the running boards because the steel frames in them were rusted away/gone. Then I did my lift to try to make the front level with the rear. My parts ended up lifting the front 3" from where I started, or 2" higher than stock.
View attachment 68053

I also added black headlights, LED color switchable foglight bulbs, and 1996-1998 Ford Explorer Limited rims with longer studs and spacers to clear the brake calipers.
View attachment 68054

The rear is already high due to the multileaf spring packs and shackles used on AWD vans, and I also removed the rear bench seat and moved the spare tire to the middle inside the van. I added half-leaf helper springs that I already had, and shimmed the one end up with washers instead of the rivet that they provide. I installed them with the rear axle completely unloaded and drooping, to get the most lift.
View attachment 68055

I also found a pair of overload leafs on the rear of a Ford truck in the junkyard that I can add to the rear if I need to. I also have found out the front leaf spring brackets are different (and taller!) in earlier generation vans. The 3rd gen van brackets are around an inch taller and more plentiful. The 2nd gen AWD van brackets are over an inch of lift, but much harder to find. I got one (other was rusted in place), and that was difficult because the yards don't allow jacks/lifting cars or sell leaf springs.
View attachment 68056
That is a good comparison of how much lower the leaf spring will sit, as the brackets are both touching the frame.

I'm also going SUV - sport utility van. (y) I have an old police push bumper to add to the front sometime, some Cragar soft 8 steel wheels (only 2) with 30" tires, and a Subaru Impreza hood scoop to add for cooling. I've also pulled a 4.0L engine from a Pacifica, and enough parts and electronics from a 3.5L Pacifica to run it on. I also have a 300M Special PCM and key/module to see if I can get that to work with the van; that will give me better shift points and allow me to run true dual exhaust (4 oxygen sensors) if I choose.
View attachment 68057

View attachment 68058

I had a setback this spring when I hit a deer at 60mph. Luckily because my van was lifted the deer body hit at bumper height and didn't go over the hood. I'm still fixing issues from that.
View attachment 68059
View attachment 68060

I had to replace the front strut, door and fender, straighten the hood and use an old headlight I had. I still have to replace the front hub that is now growling from the hit, and the replacement strut didn't have an elonged hole to adjust camber. Good thing I was running a junk tire up front, as it's trashed now.

Since you have front wheel drive, you can simply lift the rear with longer bolts and lift blocks between axle tube and leaf spring.

I believe the stow-N-go vans did not have an external fuel filter, but the old flat floor vans with the gas tank on the side do, on top of the tank.

Welcome to the forum. Let's get crazy! :ROFLMAO: :cool: :p

Ive seen you post the van around the forum, and I like it!

Those Exploder rims def look nice. I am sure I can find a set on the cheap. I will worry about that when it is time for tires again (my baby cherokee is getting a lift, tires, spacers soon as it will be needed before the van)

Mine is a long wheelbase with the stow and go. I had the 2nd and 3rd row seats out for a while, but to free up space to work on my Ion, I put the seats back in. Otherwise they were dumpster bound.

I read somewhere (probably on this forum) that someone used the windstar end links. They figured it out at a junk yard. Rock auto had them on sale for $4ish each. Along with some moog sway bar bushings for $5. I was like $21 out the door, so cant really complain. I got the struts from the junk yard just to confirm everything will fit (plus my FR is blown out and popping) so I can do this fairly quick on lunch at work (UVI at a dealer)

Your passenger door, is what my driver door looks like. Thats why it was totaled in the first place. No clue when it happened. I know the previous owner, and he got it from a family member who got it like that years ago.
I havent bothered to replace it, yet. But its on the list. Just no point of it looking decent if it needs mechanical work.

Ill have to grab a set of 3rd gen front brackets for it on my next rock auto order.
My yard will sell leaf springs, but they hold the vehicles up by the springs in the rear. They do the 2 wheel thing to keep them off the ground. Id have to go back to the front. Get someone with a fork lift to come pick it up, do what I need, its just a hassle.

Ive got a small brush guard from a Saturn Vue I had, Ive been thinking about adding. Along with some recovery hooks from a Jeep liberty, and flood lights from a WJ. Both my front and rear bumper are held on with self tappers, anyway.
This van really is a piece of art. LMAO Ill have to do a walk around video one day so everyone can have a good laugh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got another yard near by. Has 1 first gen listed. 1 second gen. And 1 third gen. A bunch of fourth gens.
I may try to hit them up on lunch one day to grab the brackets off the rear. Essentially I am buying bushings either way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well. Slight set back. Water pump went today. It's still turning. But dumping water. Just spent $210 on rock auto on random misc things to attack while I'm in there. This is why my project car never gets touched, I swear
 

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I bought the SKP water pump for my 3.8 back when I was planning on doing a swap to another 3.8 that runs smoothly. I picked it because it has an aluminum impeller. Some pumps with plastic impellers crack, then the shaft just spins inside the impeller and the engine overheats. From the outside the pump looks fine because it's turning and not leaking. Also got it from Rock Auto. (y) Just something to keep in mind when you're ordering parts.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I bought the SKP water pump for my 3.8 back when I was planning on doing a swap to another 3.8 that runs smoothly. I picked it because it has an aluminum impeller. Some pumps with plastic impellers crack, then the shaft just spins inside the impeller and the engine overheats. From the outside the pump looks fine because it's turning and not leaking. Also got it from Rock Auto. (y) Just something to keep in mind when you're ordering parts.
Actually went with the SKP for that reason. Wanted mopar, but cant justify the price. Even my discount at work would be probably double the SKP. It seemed to have decent reviews from a quick google search. Also replacing the tensioner(gates) and idler (skp) while I am in there. Along with a bando belt (it was the cheapest, ill return it if it feels cheap and get one from work) I was trying to get everything to come in the same box to save on shipping. But after so many items rock auto starts splitting it up apparently. Replacing the inlet pipe, both rad hoses, thermostat, ECTS, and upper/lower manifold gaskets also. Ordered a track bar/shackle bushings/front leaf spring bushings also. Gonna flush the heater core and radiator while its apart. Still need to go warranty some junk yard fans I got a while back, and ill grab a relay while I am there. Found out my negative battery cable was junk. I just replaced it a few months ago. Guess I shouldnt of cheaped out on it. That was the reason for my hard start issues. Probably why I blew another set of fans, too.

Definitely going overboard. But I need this thing to last me. I was impressed with our 06 stratus 2.4 taking the abuse it did. Which is kinda what got me into the dodges. This van just keeps on trucking, too
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
work was dead today waiting on trucks to come unload auction cars, so had some time to work on the van some.
Got the water pump, lower hard hose, lower rad hose, tensioner, belt, thermostat, and coolant temp sensor done. Was going to do the idler also, but they sent me the wrong one.
Have school for work sunday night-wednesday, Longest drive this thing will have in months. Last drive was about 400 miles each way. This is about 200 each way. Work is only about 3 miles each way, so it doesnt get its legs stretched much.
Rad fans still dont kick on. I let it sit there and run while bleeding the system for almost an hour, and nada. But didnt get above the half mark. Id really like to add a digital temp gauge to it, eventually.
Want to try and get the intake gaskets, struts, and end links done tomorrow. But all depends on work, because I need to make money also. If the intake comes off, I have a 68mm throttle body to swap on also. Notice my throttle cable is a little stretched today, so will probably be looking at replacing that soon, as well.

Whoever did the engine work on this thing, used RTV on EVERYTHING! It has not been fun cleaning up all that RTV.
 

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work was dead today waiting on trucks to come unload auction cars, so had some time to work on the van some.
Got the water pump, lower hard hose, lower rad hose, tensioner, belt, thermostat, and coolant temp sensor done. Was going to do the idler also, but they sent me the wrong one.
Have school for work sunday night-wednesday, Longest drive this thing will have in months. Last drive was about 400 miles each way. This is about 200 each way. Work is only about 3 miles each way, so it doesnt get its legs stretched much.
Rad fans still dont kick on. I let it sit there and run while bleeding the system for almost an hour, and nada. But didnt get above the half mark. Id really like to add a digital temp gauge to it, eventually.
Want to try and get the intake gaskets, struts, and end links done tomorrow. But all depends on work, because I need to make money also. If the intake comes off, I have a 68mm throttle body to swap on also. Notice my throttle cable is a little stretched today, so will probably be looking at replacing that soon, as well.

Whoever did the engine work on this thing, used RTV on EVERYTHING! It has not been fun cleaning up all that RTV.
eeeekkk on the RTV. Not fun at all.

I use the Scan-Gauge-2 with the OBD 'live' and direct readings. I got it just prior to smarty phones having all of this app based. Shop around, you could find something better. Even though I paid $200, in the long run it was cheaper than a monthly app charge for the past 11 years or so.

The temp typically sits around 191F to 202F in the hot summer. The fans 'seldom' ever turn on. The van has the newer all metal water pump impeller and the old school green coolant now.

If the vans its at idle for 15 to 20mins, the fans do come on for about 30 seconds. That's been the case. Prior, when the plastic impeller water pump was with badly worn blades the fans would kick on since less flow was happening.

If you go with the 68mm TB swap, you may need the see the benefit with the exhaust system doing the resonator 'delete' and go straight pipe out the back. The resonator does have lamp position with a bolt and rubber hanger where the straight pipe would connect and mount. It's almost a really plug-n-play, just need a hanger strap to finish the job.
The tail end straight pipe is less than $20 at the box stores. They have about 5 various sizes of pipe diameter an most if not all are 18 to 22 inches long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
So took my 200 mile trip tonight. Temp stayed just below the half mark unless in Dallas traffic. Then hit the half mark. But dropped pretty quick. High 70s ambient temp.
Need to look at the pulleys, again. Got one squealing. I'm betting the idler since I didn't replace it. It felt okay. But I ordered one, and they sent me a tensioner pulley. Unless the new tensioner I put in is bad.

Had a vibration in the rear of the van the first 40 miles. This thing never sees the highway, so probably needed the cob webs shaken off. Tires are probably 5/32 so about due anyway. And didn't have time to do the bushings back there. So it probably all plays a role.

I wanna delete the resonator. Just want to get it running a bit better first. I'll wait on the tb for now. It will keep a muffler though. Even if it's aftermarket. Haven't decided yet. Was half considering a y pipe. Lmao
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So just got back from my 3 day trip. Van held up well. Think I have the clamp on the lower rad hose positioned wrong, or something. Had a small puddle of coolant one day out of the 3. I guess could be residual that was hiding somewhere that didn't get cleaned enough since I havent had any more wet spots.

I was taking an alignment/suspension class. We all put our vehicles on the racks for demos 🤣
My rack has play. Both inner and outer tie rods have play. Control arm bushings are shot. 1 strut is bad. And my power steering pump, lines, and rack is all leaking. Which must be new because I don't remember seeing power steering stuff leaking. I was suspicious of the rack being worn. But it was a come and go type noise I was getting.
Guess redoing my steering stuff is next.
Plus side I averaged high 20s/low 30s mpg on the way back cruising 75 in 91° weather. Was pleased with that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ordered inner and outer tie rods tonight. Went with moog. Rock auto had the Monroe shocks on sale for 52.99. I got the last set. Pretty stoked about that. Also had to get both sliding door locks.
And as of yesterday water pump is leaking again. I think it's coming from the inlet tube oring. But ordered a new oring and water pump gasket to be safe.

I still have a few things from my last haul I need to install. But after this, I'll just need control arms to be close to mint.

Once the suspension and steering stop creeking and chattering so much, I'm planning on chopping the muffler and resonator off 😂 I'm getting tired of quiet. And my Ion is still no where near being done. So I'll need some noise until then. Also have that bigger throttle body I need to install. Might look into porting the lower plenum. I think the 3.8 jeep guys did that. I'll have to do some more digging
 

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And as of yesterday water pump is leaking again. I think it's coming from the inlet tube o-ring. But ordered a new o-ring and water pump gasket to be safe.
Be sure to mount the hard pipe and hose from the radiator to the water pump in it's exact placement when the OE was installed. Being over 10 degrees more or less, the leaks will happen.

As an FYI, DO NOT buy the Mahle/Delphi o-ring for the water pump. The durometer is way too high (nearly like a rock with no squish) and will not seat to the water pump and the pipe correctly. Been there done that.

Once the suspension and steering stop creeking and chattering so much, I'm planning on chopping the muffler and resonator off 😂 I'm getting tired of quiet.
For the 3.3L engine, the resonator delete is nearly undetectable to hear the noise. Better air flow too. When you are back there and under, getting to that bolt and the hanger isn't too bad. Then the 18-inch long autoparts store pipe just fit in place. The last step is to cut (skive) the rear bumper for the straight pipe not to melt anything, or just allow the pipe to drop down a little with the furthest back hanger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Be sure to mount the hard pipe and hose from the radiator to the water pump in it's exact placement when the OE was installed. Being over 10 degrees more or less, the leaks will happen.

As an FYI, DO NOT buy the Mahle/Delphi o-ring for the water pump. The durometer is way too high (nearly like a rock with no squish) and will not seat to the water pump and the pipe correctly. Been there done that.


For the 3.3L engine, the resonator delete is nearly undetectable to hear the noise. Better air flow too. When you are back there and under, getting to that bolt and the hanger isn't too bad. Then the 18-inch long autoparts store pipe just fit in place. The last step is to cut (skive) the rear bumper for the straight pipe not to melt anything, or just allow the pipe to drop down a little with the furthest back hanger.
I replaced the hard pipe and lower rad hose back in October. I think it's the oring at the hard pipe leaking. Ordered a felpro oring and Mopar water pump gasket to be safe.

Exhaust is 2.25 correct? Haven't decided if imma go with a different muffler or not. But heard some clips on YouTube, and the muffler and resonator delete didn't sound bad at all
 

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Just the Monroe struts without springs? I wouldn't use the quick struts, as the springs are usually junk (too soft). KYB is a much better brand. Keep the OE springs if you can, or lift the front end with Pacifica struts.

I drove my 2001 3.8L parts van an hour or so back from the cities (where I bought it) and the muffler was completely rusted out. There was a piece of house heater vent pipe wired around it as a deflector, but that was it. It was loud and ugly sounding, like a true junker. I'd rather use a muffler, but something that makes more of a base tone, nice and mellow like a big V8. It's about sound quality to me, not loudness. The trick is accomplishing that without drone at cruise speeds.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Just the Monroe struts without springs? I wouldn't use the quick struts, as the springs are usually junk (too soft). KYB is a much better brand. Keep the OE springs if you can, or lift the front end with Pacifica struts.

I drove my 2001 3.8L parts van an hour or so back from the cities (where I bought it) and the muffler was completely rusted out. There was a piece of house heater vent pipe wired around it as a deflector, but that was it. It was loud and ugly sounding, like a true junker. I'd rather use a muffler, but something that makes more of a base tone, nice and mellow like a big V8. It's about sound quality to me, not loudness. The trick is accomplishing that without drone at cruise speeds.
The rear Monroe coil over shock ones. I've got Pacifica struts for the front already.

I def don't want obnoxious. I still think I'll use a muffler. Probably try to find a nice magnaflow or borla
 

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:cool:

I've also heard a glasspack tube muffler, especially a burnt out one, works as a great resonator when used before the muffler. I tried this on my 1984 Supra with a 2.8 inline 6 and a cheap used muffler. Sounded good for being almost free. :ROFLMAO: Since I had gotten the glasspack and some pipe from a dumpster. It likely would have sounded better with a magnaflow muffler. Those and the Borlas are also favorites among the classic Supra crowd, so good choices. I still have my Thrush Turbo muffler to put on my van sometime, and keeping the glasspack idea in mind if I don't like that muffler.

Since you mentioned the Moog outer tie rod ends, there was someone in the 5th gen section that installed them and CRACKED both steering knuckles tightening them. He had to replace the knuckles, turning the job into a major one. He used the supplied hardware, which looks wrong. I ordered and installed Moog tie rod ends after him, and noted the same hardware - I did NOT use it. I used the old nylock nut and tightened by hand by feel, no torque wrench. I didn't crack mine. I think the supplied castle nut has too little friction, and to reach the same torque spec actually pulls the taper of the TRE into the knuckle too hard and cracks it. I wish OEM equivalent would actually be just that! Nylock flanged lock nuts, not a castle nut and cotter pin. It's all in the details. Just wanted to mention that to help you avoid unnecessary trouble and cursing. :LOL:
 
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