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Discussion Starter #1
As stated in the title, the liftgate on my '08 TC Limited is completely inoperative. It started that it would jerk open, and not close(under power). When closed manually it wouldn't pull itself in to latch until I pulled the latch release handle, and let it go. This would cause the liftgate to completely latch. Now it will not latch at all. I cannot lock my van because the liftgate doesn't lock. If I accelerate too quickly from a stop the liftgate opens and I have to pull over and close it.

I am looking at replacing the "Trunk Lock Actuator", but I am not sure if that will fix any of my problems or not.

Any help is greatly appreciated.
 

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Did you try turning off all the power doors and liftgate with the overhead control buttons. It will not fix the problem, but should disable the power feature and operate fully in manual mode.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have still had no luck fixing this issue.

I tried replacing the trunk lock actuator, that did not do the trick. But I did learn something new. The actuator will move to unlatch the liftgate, but will not release from that position. I am not sure what step to take next.
 

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Apparently the faulty arms cause it to come down slightly cocked. Check youtube and you will find the issue and the fix for 5th gen vans. The lift motor has a sensor of sorts to keep people from getting injured and to keep the car from damage. When the support arms are bad it feels like the gate is hitting something so the motor retracts the gate. When the support arms go bad one goes before the other so, it gets slightly off kilter when closing. That's my two cents anyway. Those arms are pretty cheap at rockauto.com. Don't buy the bottom of the line supports or you will be doing this again real soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsN7BuXA8kw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wMJxdjr9-I

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1998,town+&+country,3.8l+v6,1376311,body,lift+support,1404
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Apparently the faulty arms cause it to come down slightly cocked. Check youtube and you will find the issue and the fix for 5th gen vans. The lift motor has a sensor of sorts to keep people from getting injured and to keep the car from damage. When the support arms are bad it feels like the gate is hitting something so the motor retracts the gate. When the support arms go bad one goes before the other so, it gets slightly off kilter when closing. That's my two cents anyway. Those arms are pretty cheap at rockauto.com. Don't buy the bottom of the line supports or you will be doing this again real soon.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qsN7BuXA8kw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7wMJxdjr9-I

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/chrysler,1998,town+&+country,3.8l+v6,1376311,body,lift+support,1404
My symptoms seemed a little different, as mine won't latch period. But what the heck, I'll give it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So it's been a while but I might finally be getting somewhere. I have obtained a Autel scan tool, and have been messing with the liftgate for hours trying to see what I can do. I have 3 codes the keep popping up.
B1889 Power Liftgate Pnch Sensor 1 Circuit High
B1948 Power Liftgate Pinch Sensor 2 Circuit High
B197A Power Liftgate Latch Release - Sector Switch Performance

The first two are there no matter what, B197A will go away if I use the scan tool to drive the latch closed but once it is open again then it stays on until I repeat.
Looking at the live data both pinch sensors read 4.9V which is what they are supposed to read when not pinched. When I pinch them nothing happens. The voltage doesn't change. So is this faulty pinch sensors or Power Liftgate Module? I have 2 PLGM's and they both give the same codes, and I have used the scan tool to reset both of them.

I know for sure all pieces function such as the latch, the up and down drive motor, the clutch for that motor, so in my mind and based on what I can find it's either the PLGM or pinch sensors. I would assume sensors since I am getting the same faults with both PLGMs. But how likely is it that both pinch sensors would go bad at the same time?

Thanks for the help
 

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Seems like it may be the sensors since you have swapped the other components and had no change. I agree it does seem odd that both would fail at once. Perhaps there is a failure in the wiring common to both sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So after checking the Pinch Sensors with a multimeter, I am not really any closer to knowing what is wrong.

Using the guide I found the pinch sensors should read close to 10k Ohms when not pinched, and less than 200 when pinched. They both operate as described. So the guide says that the next step would be changing the the Power Liftgate Module. I already have 2 PLGMs and they both are giving me the same codes and issues. So I guess now I am going to check the wires?

I just find this very irritating. Glad I have the resources to work on this myself instead of having a dealership do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
For now I am giving up. I ordered a latch assembly from a vehicle without the power liftgate. This should solve the latching problem. I know it will not lock with the power locks but I am ok with that for now.
 

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For now I am giving up. I ordered a latch assembly from a vehicle without the power liftgate. This should solve the latching problem. I know it will not lock with the power locks but I am ok with that for now.
I would think it should still lock with the power locks, including with FOB.
 

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I do not believe it will lock since the wiring harnesses are different. Really seems like a bad design since it seems completely electric without a manual override.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I would think it should still lock with the power locks, including with FOB.
Harnesses are different. If I get to it I may see if I can track down what wires control the locks and splice it in. However, since the powered system is 100% electric it may have just been a signal in the PLGM that prevented it from opening and there may not be "lock" wires going back to the liftgate.

I do not believe it will lock since the wiring harnesses are different. Really seems like a bad design since it seems completely electric without a manual override.
It's a horrible desing. I've been without a latching liftgate for almost a year. I have been driving this and the wife has been driving my car while I work on the problem. I'm ready to give this back to her.
 

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I know this is an old post but thought I would chime in and tell you what your problem is.
I had the fellow that runs the business next to my shop come in and tell me he had the power lift assembly and latch assembly replaced in his van that was setting the exact codes as the van in this thread. Spent hundreds and the other shop couldn't fix it. Since my snap on scanner would not clear the pinch sensor codes out I immediately knew that the problem was most likely wiring due to being improbable that both switches would malfunction at once.Common problem with these van's are broken wires in the harness for the sliding doors. I have owned probably 30 or so of these Van's (dealer) and fix this regularly. Proceeds to take off plastic roof trim revealing hatch harness and started pulling in each wire individually until one pulled completely out revealing it to be broken. If I remember I could be wrong but it was a small wire pink/black. Repaired wire, cleared codes on hatch module and presto hatch worked. Whole process took me 45 minutes.
 
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