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What did you do about the sway bar links?
Are you going to put on bigger tires? If so, what size and type?
I chose to do a swaybar delete.

I have the stock tires and wheels on now. The tires have good tread but when I do eventually replace them, I do want to go up to a larger size. I have not figured out what that will be.
 

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2002 Chrysler Town & Country Limited AWD 3.8L
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I chose to do a swaybar delete.

I have the stock tires and wheels on now. The tires have good tread but when I do eventually replace them, I do want to go up to a larger size. I have not figured out what that will be.
I put LT245/75R16 120/116R Pirelli Scorpion A/T+ tires on the stock wheels. 30.5”
Pros: The LT Tires carry the van’s weight comfortably without the tires squatting and wearing the shoulders. The lift is maximized. Great traction.
Cons: I wouldn’t recommend it to most people due to the significant cutting/modifications to the body and trim. It still rubs sometimes. 13% change in gearing: significant speedo error and reduced torque. Sway bar links need to be 1” shorter with the Pacifica struts. I had some heavy duty MOOGs cut and welded.
Recommendations: find a tire size just narrower and smaller overall diameter. Install the more aggressive differential gears from a 3.3L to offset the changes to torque and speedo from the tires.
 

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I put a 245/70R16 wheel/tire (from a Saturn Vue) on a van at the junkyard and it fit, so maybe the extra height of the 75 profile is too tall? I run 235/75/R15 on mine, but I had to pound down the pinched seam in the rear of the front wheelwell and delete the front splash guards for the tires to clear while turning. I'm also using Ford Explorer wheels and 12mm spacers, but my 1 1/4" strut spacers on top of my Pacifica struts give the lower control arms more angle and suck the wheels in slightly more than stock. On stock offset wheels they might work fine?
 

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New springs and air bags in the back. 2” drop mount on rear axle cross bar. New struts and 1.4” urethane strut spaces in front. 225/70 R16.

My front end feels more responsive than stock.
Increased drag from front lift is noticeable, but negligible when driving on gravel grid roads.
 

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2006 Dodge Caravan SXE
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S-U-P-E-R S-W-E-E-T

I did my rear with the Dayton Add-A-Leaf that raised it 1.5 inches and then the Monroe coil-over-shock for the full 2 inches. Added 700-lbs extra loading too.

Soooo, if I follow up with the Pacifica on the front, it would level it all up. hmmmm.

What are the Pacifica sized struts and brand p/n's you went with? Anything else other than plug-n-play for the upgrade?
 
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S-U-P-E-R S-W-E-E-T

I did my rear with the Dayton Add-A-Leaf that raised it 1.5 inches and then the Monroe coil-over-shock for the full 2 inches. Added 700-lbs extra loading too.

Soooo, if I follow up with the Pacifica on the front, it would level it all up. hmmmm.

What are the Pacifica sized struts and brand p/n's you went with? Anything else other than plug-n-play for the upgrade?
Hi Mopar-Mofun,

I did 2005 Pacifica front struts in my 2005 T&C.

I got them from Amazon:
Monroe Shocks & Struts Quick-Strut 182130R Strut and Coil Spring Assembly https://a.co/d/bHqGqtQ
And
Monroe Shocks & Struts Quick-Strut 182130L Strut and Coil Spring Assembly https://a.co/d/2RQrWVR

I also got these camber bolt kits to aid me with alignment:

I haven’t done it yet, but I must clearance the passenger side… I think control arm, because the axle rubs at full droop.

I also had to bend the steel part of the brake hose assemblies at the calipers so they cleared the struts.
 

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2006 Dodge Caravan SXE
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Hi Mopar-Mofun,

I did 2005 Pacifica front struts in my 2005 T&C.

I got them from Amazon:
Monroe Shocks & Struts Quick-Strut 182130R Strut and Coil Spring Assembly https://a.co/d/bHqGqtQ
And
Monroe Shocks & Struts Quick-Strut 182130L Strut and Coil Spring Assembly https://a.co/d/2RQrWVR

I also got these camber bolt kits to aid me with alignment:

I haven’t done it yet, but I must clearance the passenger side… I think control arm, because the axle rubs at full droop.

I also had to bend the steel part of the brake hose assemblies at the calipers so they cleared the struts.
A camber tool like this is a must have vs. expensive alignment shops these days.


For the tool to work correctly, the rotor disc can NOT be warped. And one step further, replace the front wheel bearing assemblies too. Then it will be perfect.
 

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Hi Mopar-Mofun,

I did 2005 Pacifica front struts in my 2005 T&C.

I got them from Amazon:
Monroe Shocks & Struts Quick-Strut 182130R Strut and Coil Spring Assembly https://a.co/d/bHqGqtQ
And
Monroe Shocks & Struts Quick-Strut 182130L Strut and Coil Spring Assembly https://a.co/d/2RQrWVR

I also got these camber bolt kits to aid me with alignment:

I haven’t done it yet, but I must clearance the passenger side… I think control arm, because the axle rubs at full droop.

I also had to bend the steel part of the brake hose assemblies at the calipers so they cleared the struts.
Basicly the same setup as me.
Gas Automotive tire Cylinder Machine Auto part


I didn't have to bend my steel brake hoses by the caliper though, that I remember. Although that was 2 1/2 years ago. :LOL: I can't trust myself to remember details anymore. Since my van is AWD, I didn't have the problem of the front CV shaft rubbing the aluminum crossmember where the front of the lower control arm mounts. It hits when I jack it up, but not when it's on the ground and driven. It is a problem with too much lift on a FWD though, because of the CV shaft angle coming out of the transmission. Switch to the two piece CV shaft from a Pacifica FWD or 5th gen van with the 3.3L and 41TE and the support bearing/mount that bolts to the block, and that should make it clear the way mine does. Only problem is if the engine block doesn't have those bosses drilled/tapped for the bearing mount.

I get a lot of vibration on acceleration, so I still have to drop my crossmember and drivetrain to lessen the CV angles. Do you have any problems with yours? Maybe my alignment is so far out that it's causing it on mine. I've never had it on an alignment rack yet.

What did you do for the sway bar end links? Moog Ford Windstar links like I did?

Keep in mind whenever you change camber on these, you also change the toe. Mine has been wearing front tires all the time. My rear suspension is set so stiff that the front end picks up on acceleration, especially from a stop, and that really changes the angles and causes tire wear. That is the main reason why I need to drop my crossmember, as the lower control arms aren't parallel enough with the ground. If it was a double wishbone front suspension it wouldn't be as much of a factor.

Maxnoble440:

I love seeing builds like this! The van looks so good in that color, in the snow. The snow in the tires highlights the tread, making it look that much more aggressive. (y) It really doesn't look too bad with the rear bumper cover removed. A nice tubular rear bumper with a built-in receiver hitch, and wrap-around side loops would look great! If there were a way to bolt the side loops to the van close to the rear wheel opening and frame, you could build in a step on the loop to use for getting stuff off the roof. Once the van is lifted, the roof is so high it doesn't make much sense to store anything up there unless you really need to. High center of gravity is not preferred, and access is so hard (unless that custom rear bumper would help that). Roof baskets look cool, but if it can't be used it defeats the purpose. Your rig looks purpose built though, so it pulls it off. Nice!
 
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Basicly the same setup as me.
View attachment 68772

I didn't have to bend my steel brake hoses by the caliper though, that I remember. Although that was 2 1/2 years ago. :LOL: I can't trust myself to remember details anymore. Since my van is AWD, I didn't have the problem of the front CV shaft rubbing the aluminum crossmember where the front of the lower control arm mounts. It hits when I jack it up, but not when it's on the ground and driven. It is a problem with too much lift on a FWD though, because of the CV shaft angle coming out of the transmission. Switch to the two piece CV shaft from a Pacifica FWD or 5th gen van with the 3.3L and 41TE and the support bearing/mount that bolts to the block, and that should make it clear the way mine does. Only problem is if the engine block doesn't have those bosses drilled/tapped for the bearing mount.

I get a lot of vibration on acceleration, so I still have to drop my crossmember and drivetrain to lessen the CV angles. Do you have any problems with yours? Maybe my alignment is so far out that it's causing it on mine. I've never had it on an alignment rack yet.

What did you do for the sway bar end links? Moog Ford Windstar links like I did?

Keep in mind whenever you change camber on these, you also change the toe. Mine has been wearing front tires all the time. My rear suspension is set so stiff that the front end picks up on acceleration, especially from a stop, and that really changes the angles and causes tire wear. That is the main reason why I need to drop my crossmember, as the lower control arms aren't parallel enough with the ground. If it was a double wishbone front suspension it wouldn't be as much of a factor.

Maxnoble440:

I love seeing builds like this! The van looks so good in that color, in the snow. The snow in the tires highlights the tread, making it look that much more aggressive. (y) It really doesn't look too bad with the rear bumper cover removed. A nice tubular rear bumper with a built-in receiver hitch, and wrap-around side loops would look great! If there were a way to bolt the side loops to the van close to the rear wheel opening and frame, you could build in a step on the loop to use for getting stuff off the roof. Once the van is lifted, the roof is so high it doesn't make much sense to store anything up there unless you really need to. High center of gravity is not preferred, and access is so hard (unless that custom rear bumper would help that). Roof baskets look cool, but if it can't be used it defeats the purpose. Your rig looks purpose built though, so it pulls it off. Nice!
Hi Road Ripper,

My passenger side axle only rubs when I have it jacked up and the suspension is fully extended (full droop).

I do feel a little vibration when I accelerate harder but I don’t consider it an issue. I do not want to drop my crossmember and loose the ground clearance.

I totally removed my sway bar, end links, and all its mounts when doing my lift. I have no intentions of reinstalling them.

Roger on camber/toe adjustments, thanks 👍
 

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2006 Dodge Caravan SXE
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New springs and air bags in the back. 2” drop mount on rear axle cross bar. New struts and 1.4” urethane strut spaces in front. 225/70 R16.

My front end feels more responsive than stock.
Increased drag from front lift is noticeable, but negligible when driving on gravel grid roads.
As Road Ripper mentioned, the rear bumper fascia removed isn't bad at all aestheticly. And taking a second look, I noticed the plastic door hatch for the rear HVAC unit is visible. I just spent 2 hours with the inside trim apart and tweaking the rear HVAC for more output and sealing off all of the open carriage cut-outs. Chrysler had a few of these large cutouts already closed off with 4mm poron patches, but left a handful still wide open. So I closed those off with aluminum foil tape. Our temps hit a low of 9F last Sunday and driving the van felt like the rear unit was blowing icicles. LOL

Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Vehicle


Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design Automotive exterior Vehicle door
 
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Hi Road Ripper,

My passenger side axle only rubs when I have it jacked up and the suspension is fully extended (full droop).

I do feel a little vibration when I accelerate harder but I don’t consider it an issue. I do not want to drop my crossmember and loose the ground clearance.

I totally removed my sway bar, end links, and all its mounts when doing my lift. I have no intentions of reinstalling them.

Roger on camber/toe adjustments, thanks 👍
Thank you so much for the driving feedback! For a moment I was getting you confused with maxnoble440, both with blue vans. :)

So it's looking like if JUST Pacifica struts are installed and no other lift helpers in the front, vibration is minimal because it's only lifted around an inch. Any more than that, like combining with strut spacers (like me), and the angles change too much under acceleration and cause severe shaking and tire wear. I need to drop my crossmember and drivetrain, because even with the shorter front CV axles of the AWD that can take more angle until it hits the crossmember/control arm, my axles STILL rest on those areas when jacked up and make it difficult to change struts or drivetrain parts. Also, the way the suspension moves it's like the control arms get shorter under acceleration when the front picks up, toeing in the tires and wearing the edges.

I have taller strut mount spacers I could use, but they'd be impossible to install without dropping the subframe. They can raise a van with stock struts 2". If I can drop my front subframe a substantial amount, I'll be tempted to install them in place of my urethane ones. Then I can put on bigger tires, but then the floor/wheelwell pinch weld gets in the way again and it's already flattened. Anyway, that's it on the left.

Gas Suspension Machine Nickel Coil spring


That and only a 1" subframe spacer would put me right back to where I am now. I might try for a 2" subframe drop.

I'm just happy to see so many people using the Pacifica struts and lifting vans and enjoying them. :):cool:
 
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Good info in this thread for sure.
Pacifica struts are going on mine as soon as I get a chance. Waiting on a few more parts to come in so I can tear the front end apart all at once then bring it right to the alignment rack.
Mine being fwd lwb, I'm looking forward to the level with the Pacifica struts. I wouldn't mind lifting it a few inches, as I do use it as a work van. But I really don't want to get into sub frame spacers and sourcing axles and what not.

I'll probably be doing the add a leaf for the extra rear support. Trying to find a good deal on a roof rack to store my spare up there with other essentials. Trying to free up space to mount a tool box in the back with a comfortable work space/loading room if I need to haul an engine or trans.

Also, considering ripping the carpet out and doing some sort of rubber lining/rhino lining.

I see it this way. It's a 16 year old van, with 239k miles, and a salvage title. If it leaves my hands it'll be going to the crusher. So may as well make it as functional as possible to make money until I can get an older dually like I want
 

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Trying to find a good deal on a roof rack to store my spare up there with other essentials. Trying to free up space to mount a tool box in the back with a comfortable work space/loading room if I need to haul an engine or trans.
I got a FREE roof rack at my local Pull-A-Part yard. It was already on a 2007 T&C in their yard. I asked the guy about it and he said just take it. It looks very close to this one.
Car Roof Rack Cargo Luggage Carrier Basket w/150 LBS Capacity Extension | eBay
Rectangle Gas Auto part Metal Kitchen appliance accessory


The tray was fully intact. The mounting legs were totally rusted out. bummer.
I still plan to fasten the cargo tray to the exiting cargo roof rails on the van.
So, what I got is just the tray. :) It's all aluminum. I replaced the rusty screws holding the tray together with stainless ones. So far it's costed nothing but a little time.
Rectangle Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Gas
 

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I got a FREE roof rack at my local Pull-A-Part yard. It was already on a 2007 T&C in their yard. I asked the guy about it and he said just take it. It looks very close to this one.
Car Roof Rack Cargo Luggage Carrier Basket w/150 LBS Capacity Extension | eBay
View attachment 68851

The tray was fully intact. The mounting legs were totally rusted out. bummer.
I still plan to fasten the cargo tray to the exiting cargo roof rails on the van.
So, what I got is just the tray. :) It's all aluminum. I replaced the rusty screws holding the tray together with stainless ones. So far it's costed nothing but a little time.
View attachment 68852
Oh, found the pix I took once I got it home.
Automotive parking light Car Plant Grille Tire
 
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