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Lifting a dodge caravan

12K views 40 replies 12 participants last post by  goaliemo 
#1 ·
Hi everyone I just inherited a 2006 dodge Caravan, I put a bed in the back and it served me well during the summer rock climbing season. In the winter however, I drive a ton of ****ty, snowy, and steep forestry service roads, I managed this fairly well with a VW golf, good winter tires, and chains last winter, but I occasionally lost bits of my underbody trim to hidden rocks and deep snow. However the golf was great handling, had great traction, and generally felt planted at all times, I have this sinking feeling that the caravan will not...
  • I am wondering if anyone else uses their van on ****ty steep unplowed roads (with winter tires) and how there van does, or how you think it would compare to a VW golf.
  • I am also wondering if there is a good place to pickup a skid plate for the vulnerable oil pan and transmission.
  • I am also wondering about lifting (leveling) just with strut spacers for about 1-2" of extra ground clearance so I sit higher up on the snow and do less plowing, which was a problem with the golf. Where can I do this, is this a good idea? Im an okay home mechanic and im willing to curse a lot to get a job done.
  • Should I keep the caravan or sell it and get an SUV.
Thanks!
 
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#3 ·
Sounds like a 2001-2004 AWD Grand Caravan/Town & Country would be a better fit for you. If good tires and front wheel drive will get it done for you, then you can lift it.

When you say Caravan, you mean it's the short wheelbase without stow N go? It makes a difference, because someone put in front struts for a van with the long wheelbase (Grand) and the front sat way too high for them. Another member had a short wheelbase and put in some used 04-08 Pacifica struts and it lifted the front enough for him. If you have a front wheel drive, you can lift the rear with simple blocks and longer bolts between the beam axle and leaf spring.

If you lift it too much the CV angles get too far out, the alignment changes too much and you get tire wear and vibration on takeoff (like me). I need to correct it by dropping the front subframe/drivetrain 1-2 inches to match my lift. I try to get front lift parts from junked handicap ramp vans (with ramp out the side door), such as strut spacers and bolts, subframe and motor mount spacers.

The front of my van sat too low when I got it, so I ordered strut spacers. Then I found out at the junkyard that Pacifica struts will fit because they shared the same upper strut mount and steering knuckle measurements. I put the strut spacers AND Pacifica struts in my van. The old struts were FCS quick struts and sagged badly, and I believe they were actually for the short wheelbase vans so my van was 1" lower in front than it should have been. The new parts gave it 2" of lift from stock, or in my particular case 3" from where I started. With that combination, Moog sway bar end links for a 2003 Ford Windstar fit perfectly. I put on some Ford Explorer wheels with 235/75R15 tires for the off road look.

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The rear was already high with the multi-leaf spring packs (AWD and cargo vans only use these) and then I added some half-leaf helper springs and removed the rear bench seat and spare tire (moved spare inside). It gets through the snow and down bumpy old roads okay. 😁
 
#4 ·
This is awesome, I am looking to do it as simply as possible, I totally agree that AWD would be ideal but im going to try and make what I have work, if I am switching vehicles I would just go to an outback or forester.

It is the regular caravan, short wheel base. Can I get away with just adding the strut spacers in the front only, say the 20 or 30 mm spacer (from Tema unless their is another place to get them) just to get the front more level with the rear to get a bit more clearance? The rear of the van looks dramatically higher then the front already. I have been told that 2" is generally the max you can do (with any vehicle before things start getting out of alignment). Do you ever need to do anything steep? how do you find the traction if so, the logging roads out here (vancouver island) can be very steep.
 
#5 ·
I have 1.25" spacers up front which amount to 2" of lift up front, with 2" blocks and longer shocks in the rear.
I'm running 27" ATs.
My van is a tank in the snow, it will plow it's way through until the snow lifts the drive tires off the ground.
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That was over 20" deep.

I take my van everywhere and laugh at those who think they need AWD to go places.
 
#18 ·
I had to drive a Caravan with a 4-inch lift, it was an AWESOME feeling. In fact very pleased that the van sat just as high as many of the SUVs on the road.

BUT, the only trouble with the raised van was the head winds hitting into the front. It required 2 hands tight on the wheel and to keep correcting the steering. The winds indeed were strong and going over 50mph was a struggle.
I made mention to the owner that the van needs a taller deflector under the front fascia bumper to reduce the wind lift under the front end.

So, has anyone with a lifted van experience the frontal strong winds yet?

Being out here in the mid-west, strong winds are very common. I would love to go lifted due to the snow troubles out here.
 
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#6 ·
Automotive tire Tire Tread Camera accessory Bumper

Custom machined 1.25" aluminum spacers.
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2" blocks, longer u-bolts, and longer shocks.

No issues with CVs or vibration using stock axles. I have found you have to watch aftermarkets though as they make some "longer to account for mount wear", those cause issues with CV binding.
 
#12 ·
Here it is: LT245/75R16 Pirelli Scorpion AT Plus @36 psi (about 30.5”) on stock wheels.
Drove it home with them on, (Pacifica struts already installed) but needs a bit of trimming. rear bumper bottom corners. Rear area of the front fender wells need seams flattened and clearance in the mud flap area. Front of the front wells is easily pulled forward a little Away from light contact.
For most of you, 30.0” should probably be the maximum to avoid significant rubbing. Do your tire spec research. You now have another data point for reference.
 
#15 ·
Here it is: LT245/75R16 Pirelli Scorpion AT Plus @36 psi (about 30.5”) on stock wheels.
Drove it home with them on, (Pacifica struts already installed) but needs a bit of trimming. rear bumper bottom corners. Rear area of the front fender wells need seams flattened and clearance in the mud flap area. Front of the front wells is easily pulled forward a little Away from light contact.
For most of you, 30.0” should probably be the maximum to avoid significant rubbing. Do your tire spec research. You now have another data point for reference.
That is some eye candy for me right there! :LOL: I think you now hold the record for the largest size tire fitted onto this generation of van. I was hoping 31" would be possible, but not without extensive trimming. Also depends of suspension setup and wheels/offset.

I've already flattened the seam in the floor/wheelwell area and reshaped/screwed the plastic liner back for clearance. I think I have pics of it.

Tire Automotive tire Asphalt Automotive exterior Bumper

Pounded flat, wire brushed and then primered/painted it. If I wasn't in a hurry I would have coated it with fibrous roof and foundation cement (a black gooey asphalt/tar-like coating) to seal it. I used the very bottom metal "skirt" to drill and put a couple of large head phillips interior panel screws through the plastic liner to hold it back.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Tire Car

Primer, paint and a little left over undercoating. Nothing really holding the bottom of this fender in anymore. :LOL: I have a pair of solid front fenders (color matching) waiting to go on after I repair the paint on the fronts of them (rust starting because of bumper cover clips).

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Here's what it looks like all put together. There IS actually room in there, I swear! :ROFLMAO: I reformed the plastic with a heat gun, but since it was April it was too cold to really get it formed enough. I'd recommend summertime, letting the black plastic sit in the hot sun before heating (or place next to a space heater). I also have spacers on my wheels to fit them, so that takes away some of the clearance here. Hope that helps!!
 
#13 ·
The alignment ended up pretty close to spec. Front camber came in at +0.7 and +0.9, with the spec being -0.3 to +0.5. Van was unloaded and low on fuel. Normally have 4-6 people, gear, and much more gas.
Eccentric bolts were maxed out. The bolt holes in the strut will need to be opened up a little to get them into spec. Easy mod.
 
#14 ·
Aren't giving the squirrels much room to crawl up on your wheels. :)
 
#31 ·
S-U-P-E-R S-W-E-E-T

I did my rear with the Dayton Add-A-Leaf that raised it 1.5 inches and then the Monroe coil-over-shock for the full 2 inches. Added 700-lbs extra loading too.

Soooo, if I follow up with the Pacifica on the front, it would level it all up. hmmmm.

What are the Pacifica sized struts and brand p/n's you went with? Anything else other than plug-n-play for the upgrade?
 
#29 ·
I put a 245/70R16 wheel/tire (from a Saturn Vue) on a van at the junkyard and it fit, so maybe the extra height of the 75 profile is too tall? I run 235/75/R15 on mine, but I had to pound down the pinched seam in the rear of the front wheelwell and delete the front splash guards for the tires to clear while turning. I'm also using Ford Explorer wheels and 12mm spacers, but my 1 1/4" strut spacers on top of my Pacifica struts give the lower control arms more angle and suck the wheels in slightly more than stock. On stock offset wheels they might work fine?
 
#30 ·
New springs and air bags in the back. 2” drop mount on rear axle cross bar. New struts and 1.4” urethane strut spaces in front. 225/70 R16.

My front end feels more responsive than stock.
Increased drag from front lift is noticeable, but negligible when driving on gravel grid roads.
 

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#36 ·
As Road Ripper mentioned, the rear bumper fascia removed isn't bad at all aestheticly. And taking a second look, I noticed the plastic door hatch for the rear HVAC unit is visible. I just spent 2 hours with the inside trim apart and tweaking the rear HVAC for more output and sealing off all of the open carriage cut-outs. Chrysler had a few of these large cutouts already closed off with 4mm poron patches, but left a handful still wide open. So I closed those off with aluminum foil tape. Our temps hit a low of 9F last Sunday and driving the van felt like the rear unit was blowing icicles. LOL

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#38 ·
Good info in this thread for sure.
Pacifica struts are going on mine as soon as I get a chance. Waiting on a few more parts to come in so I can tear the front end apart all at once then bring it right to the alignment rack.
Mine being fwd lwb, I'm looking forward to the level with the Pacifica struts. I wouldn't mind lifting it a few inches, as I do use it as a work van. But I really don't want to get into sub frame spacers and sourcing axles and what not.

I'll probably be doing the add a leaf for the extra rear support. Trying to find a good deal on a roof rack to store my spare up there with other essentials. Trying to free up space to mount a tool box in the back with a comfortable work space/loading room if I need to haul an engine or trans.

Also, considering ripping the carpet out and doing some sort of rubber lining/rhino lining.

I see it this way. It's a 16 year old van, with 239k miles, and a salvage title. If it leaves my hands it'll be going to the crusher. So may as well make it as functional as possible to make money until I can get an older dually like I want
 
#39 ·
Trying to find a good deal on a roof rack to store my spare up there with other essentials. Trying to free up space to mount a tool box in the back with a comfortable work space/loading room if I need to haul an engine or trans.
I got a FREE roof rack at my local Pull-A-Part yard. It was already on a 2007 T&C in their yard. I asked the guy about it and he said just take it. It looks very close to this one.
Car Roof Rack Cargo Luggage Carrier Basket w/150 LBS Capacity Extension | eBay
Rectangle Gas Auto part Metal Kitchen appliance accessory


The tray was fully intact. The mounting legs were totally rusted out. bummer.
I still plan to fasten the cargo tray to the exiting cargo roof rails on the van.
So, what I got is just the tray. :) It's all aluminum. I replaced the rusty screws holding the tray together with stainless ones. So far it's costed nothing but a little time.
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