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Hello Friends,

While working on the van I noticed that the terminals are very loose and I could not find any way to tighten them.
These are stock terminals so I wanted to get your opinions.
60977
60978
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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The nut closest to the terminal is the one that tightens it. Are you saying it won't get fully tight using that?
 
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There's likely a slight taper to the terminal and the connector needs to be loosened, pushed down further, then retightened.

Those nuts are made with a tapered bottom that tightens the clamp. Standard hardware will not work.
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A little clearer picture from a Jeep Cherokee Forum:
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2008-2014-Dodge-Grand-Caravan-12V-Automotive-Battery-Replacement-Guide-007
How to change the 12 volt car battery in the engine bay of a 5th generation 2008 to 2014 Dodge Grand Caravan
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Had the same thing happen with my negative terminal last year (when I was doing a fair amount of electrical system diagnosis). It seems to me this type of terminal doesn't hold up to repeated removals and re-installations. Eventually the thing just lost its grip. Had to replace the terminal (part number 68226708AA) for about $14.00 from moparpartsoverstock.com. Once changed, it tightened to 45-in-lbs perfectly and has held tight since.
 
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Have you tried LEVY's suggestion? I certainly support that.
Loosen them and make sure terminals are all the way down. Then tight them good.
There's likely a torque spec to follow for the nuts.
 

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2014 Town & Country
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Same thing happened to me on my '14 Town & Country. I second @Capt W 's post above. I removed both of the OE terminals and replaced with new terminals I picked up at O'Reilly's. It was easy peazy since Chrysler was thoughtful enough to connect the cables to the terminals with a nut. It works great!!

I wish I'd have done it sooner rather than fighting with the caps you bought for a couple years.

I'll take pictures of my setup if you're interested in seeing what I did. My wife is using the van to run errands at the moment; otherwise, I'd have just included them with this post.
 

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I have ordered these, I would report once I see how they fit. View attachment 60984
Don't use them unless you have to. Your terminals, as well as your battery post looks perfect. Use a socket and hammer (lightly), to push the terminal down to make sure it goes all the way down.

Here Jeepman and his brother showing the correct way to do it:

 

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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager Rallye
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Don't use them unless you have to. Your terminals, as well as your battery post looks perfect. Use a socket and hammer (lightly), to push the terminal down to make sure it goes all the way down.

Here Jeepman and his brother showing the correct way to do it:

Coming from the guy who probably sells his van and buys a new one instead of replacing the battery

:D
 

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Don't use them unless you have to. Your terminals, as well as your battery post looks perfect. Use a socket and hammer (lightly), to push the terminal down to make sure it goes all the way down.

Here Jeepman and his brother showing the correct way to do it:

You mean Daryl and my other brother Darryl?
 
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Agreed. Those shim caps tend to walk off or crack. They should be used only on abused terminals as a temporary measure until the damaged cable and/or battery can be replaced. Seen a lot of no starts that were resolved by removing those and putting a good terminal on.
 

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Agreed. Those shim caps tend to walk off or crack. They should be used only on abused terminals as a temporary measure until the damaged cable and/or battery can be replaced. Seen a lot of no starts that were resolved by removing those and putting a good terminal on.
Typically, the positive terminal is larger in diameter than the negative terminal. You can run into situations with odd batteries or replacement clamps where both clamps are large positive diameter or both battery posts are small negative size, this is when the shims/sleeves would be useful.


The temporary solution I've seen done is to run a lag screw or wood screw between the clamp and the post. This will damage your post and clamp in the long run, but it will give you a tight connection.
 

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The temporary solution I've seen done is to run a lag screw or wood screw between the clamp and the post. This will damage your post and clamp in the long run, but it will give you a tight connection.
Nasty!

Can not believe you are recommending such "temporary" solution.

Agreed, it should work, but is not going to be a temporary solution, it will stay like that forever!

First one screw, then two...

Just fix it the proper way, forget about temporary solutions!

Guess my son was wrong, 2+2 is not always 4. :oops:
 

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Nasty!

Can not believe you are recommending such "temporary" solution.

Agreed, it should work, but is not going to be a temporary solution, it will stay like that forever!

First one screw, then two...

Just fix it the proper way, forget about temporary solutions!

Guess my son was wrong, 2+2 is not always 4. :oops:
Well, if you are out on a rainy night, in the middle of nowhere, and a battery cable isn't tight enough, any way of tightening that connection will do, even if it's a pair of vice grips or a lowly wood screw. Otherwise get the slickers out. :)
 

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Well, if you are out on a rainy night, in the middle of nowhere, and a battery cable isn't tight enough, any way of tightening that connection will do, even if it's a pair of vice grips or a lowly wood screw. Otherwise get the slickers out. :)
O.P. "is not" on that situation, not at all.

Then, if you can find a wood screw and screwdriver out there, in the middle of nowhere, more likely you can also find something else.

Also, you only need a fairily tight terminal to start the engine. Once engine started, you should be able to make it home or to the nearest parts store (or to the nearest home improvement store if you insists 🤣 ).
 
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