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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello:
I have a 2013 Chrysler Town and Country Touring L. The mechanic said that the front Engine mount needs to be replaced. Which one is he referring to, passenger or drivers'? How many motor mounts does my car have? How does one replace these? From videos, it looks kind of straightforward.
Thanks.
 

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2008 Town and Country 3.8L 175k mi
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Front engine mount refers to the one just behind the radiator. Its located at the front of the vehicle, you should be able to see it easily by going under the vehicle, don’t even have to jack up the van to see it. These vans have 4 mounts. One in the front, one in the rear, one on the right, and one on the left. The passenger side mount is an engine mount while the driver side mount is a transmission mount. Pretty easy to change if you follow a video.
 

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The only one I would consider difficult is the rear one. The front one is a piece of cake. It’s very straight forward and it’s in a good spot, all of the bolt are visible. The left and right motor mounts aren’t necessarily hard to replace, you just have to remove some things to get to them.

You will have to remove the battery and it’s tray to get to the driver side transmission mount.

The passenger side motor mount might (or not) require you to remove the air intake, can’t remember.

The rear motor mount is quite tricky to line up and it’s in a bit of a tight spot. If you’re working on the ground, you have to reach pretty far up into the van, so make sure it’s cold so you don’t burn yourself in the exhaust. Visibility isn’t great but you can feel around, which is what I did. The hard part was lining the thru bolt hole up because I don’t have an engine hoist, only a floor jack. There’s nowhere to jack the engine that’s so far back, near the rear motor mount. I used prybars and the jack (where I could) to fight the mount into place.

This is all based on how difficult it was for me. I’m not a professional but I would consider myself advanced diyer. Make sure to watch a video because those help so much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The only one I would consider difficult is the rear one. The front one is a piece of cake. It’s very straight forward and it’s in a good spot, all of the bolt are visible. The left and right motor mounts aren’t necessarily hard to replace, you just have to remove some things to get to them.

You will have to remove the battery and it’s tray to get to the driver side transmission mount.

The passenger side motor mount might (or not) require you to remove the air intake, can’t remember.

The rear motor mount is quite tricky to line up and it’s in a bit of a tight spot. If you’re working on the ground, you have to reach pretty far up into the van, so make sure it’s cold so you don’t burn yourself in the exhaust. Visibility isn’t great but you can feel around, which is what I did. The hard part was lining the thru bolt hole up because I don’t have an engine hoist, only a floor jack. There’s nowhere to jack the engine that’s so far back, near the rear motor mount. I used prybars and the jack (where I could) to fight the mount into place.

This is all based on how difficult it was for me. I’m not a professional but I would consider myself advanced diyer. Make sure to watch a video because those help so much.
Sorry for so many questions, but it is located in the front-middle of the underside of the car but behind radiator, correct? The front motor mount part is pretty round and straight on the bottom, correct? Do I have to replace all four mounts when changing the front one? Thanks.
 

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2008 Town and Country 3.8L 175k mi
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Don’t apologize, questions are good. That’s how you learn. And yes, your description of the location is correct. Generally you should change all the mounts together. The reason for this is because one new mount could be stronger than the rest, which could put extra stress on them. If they’re all new, then the load will be distributed evenly. This is a general saying, I followed it for myself but I’m not sure if it’s 100% accurate. Up to you if you want to change all four. Money and time are some things to consider when answering this question.
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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Often if a front mount has been bad for a while, the rear will be too. The passenger side mount rarely gets damaged. The transmission mount also tends to get beat up when other mounts are bad. In order of least to most difficult it would be: passenger side mount, front mount, trans mount, rear mount. The rear and trans mounts both require a lot of stuff to be moved out the way to get to.
 

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I just finished up doing all 4 mounts on my 2018 this weekend.
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The front and passenger mounts are GRAVY.
The driver's mount (transmission) is a cake walk, you just have to remove the battery and battery tray, which is simple to do.
The rear mount isn't terrible either. You have to remove the heat shield that surrounds it and the front 2 bolts only work with a simple wrench, but otherwise it's pretty straightforward as well.

I did all four mounts, replaced the serpentine belt, and greased/inspected the suspension/brakes. The whole ordeal only took me 2 hours with simple hand tools in my driveway.
 

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2008 Dodge GC SXT, 3.8L 2020 Dodge GC SXT Blacktop 3.6L 328 miles
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If this was a dealer that told you the front mount was bad, you might want to get someone to help you check it. When I took my 2008 in for the recall on the steering wheel emblem over the air bag, they told me two mounts were bad. I guess they do that to cover the cost of the recall. They were not bad.
 

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If this was a dealer that told you the front mount was bad, you might want to get someone to help you check it. When I took my 2008 in for the recall on the steering wheel emblem over the air bag, they told me two mounts were bad. I guess they do that to cover the cost of the recall. They were not bad.
The fun part about the mounts on these, unless they rip completely to be obvious, they're tucked in enough that it's hard to tell by simple visual.
My front/rear mounts visually were perfect, my engine movement when changing gears however told me they weren't.
Upon removal I found the rubber was separating and cracking badly. With the engine resting on them it wasn't noticeable and they actually got brushed off by the dealership twice when they inspected them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thank you
The fun part about the mounts on these, unless they rip completely to be obvious, they're tucked in enough that it's hard to tell by simple visual.
My front/rear mounts visually were perfect, my engine movement when changing gears however told me they weren't.
Upon removal I found the rubber was separating and cracking badly. With the engine resting on them it wasn't noticeable and they actually got brushed off by the dealership twice when they inspected them.
Thanks for your input! I will be taking a look soon.
 

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I just finished up doing all 4 mounts on my 2018 this weekend. View attachment 66428 View attachment 66429

The front and passenger mounts are GRAVY.
The driver's mount (transmission) is a cake walk, you just have to remove the battery and battery tray, which is simple to do.
The rear mount isn't terrible either. You have to remove the heat shield that surrounds it and the front 2 bolts only work with a simple wrench, but otherwise it's pretty straightforward as well.

I did all four mounts, replaced the serpentine belt, and greased/inspected the suspension/brakes. The whole ordeal only took me 2 hours with simple hand tools in my driveway.
I just finished up doing all 4 mounts on my 2018 this weekend. View attachment 66428 View attachment 66429

The front and passenger mounts are GRAVY.
The driver's mount (transmission) is a cake walk, you just have to remove the battery and battery tray, which is simple to do.
The rear mount isn't terrible either. You have to remove the heat shield that surrounds it and the front 2 bolts only work with a simple wrench, but otherwise it's pretty straightforward as well.

I did all four mounts, replaced the serpentine belt, and greased/inspected the suspension/brakes. The whole ordeal only took me 2 hours with simple hand tools in my driveway.
Are those poly mounts? I have been looking to do all four mounts on mine and haven’t been able to find anyone that sells the poly mounts.
 

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Are those poly mounts? I have been looking to do all four mounts on mine and haven’t been able to find anyone that sells the poly mounts.
They are OEM mounts that I filled with 80A Urethane from suspension.com

They give the benefit of a more solid, better lasting mount without all the added vibration of solid poly mounts.
 

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I recently had a fairly severe CV Axle vibration on my 2nd Gen 1991 Dodge Grand Caravan LE FWD w/ 225K miles. I read all I could find about replacing CV Axles. One source suggested replacing and adjusting the engine mounts first before concluding that the CV Axles were bad. The Second Gen vans have 3 mounts, driver side (sliding)Trans Mount, front mount (slotted bolt holes), and Passenger Side Mount (Slotted bolt holes). The replacement Passenger Side CV Axle instructions said to make sure Engine Mounts were in good shape before replacing CV Axle(s). I decided to replace all 3 Mounts.
After replacing the three mounts, and adjusting the engine/transaxle lateral position, the CV Axle vibration was almost entirely gone. After 31 years, the old mounts were in fairly bad shape. I am sure they affected the location of the engine/transaxle.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO CHECK ENGINE/TRANSAXLE LATERAL POSITION ANYTIME MOTOR MOUNTS ARE REPLACED OR REMOVED. See below!
I am going to replace the CV Axles anyway. The manual that came with the new CV Axles from Precision Parts said:
"Many 1984 - 2000 Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth vehicles have adjustable sliding motor mounts. As these mounts age, they can sag or shift, changing the the engine and transaxle position. Always inspect the motor mounts for wear and position when replacing Axles. This is particularly important if the inner CV Boot on either side is stretched or torn.
"Engine torque usually shifts the engine/ transaxle assembly to the right side of the vehicle. This causes the right side Axle to become shorter, making the CV tripod bottom out in the inner housing and wobble. Consequently, the left side Axle becomes longer, making the CV tripod ride out on the edge of the inner housing. That causes the inner CV joint to vibrate and/or pull apart."
Measuring CV Axle lateral locations:
"With the vehicle on the ground or drive-on ramps and in Park with Parking Brake on, remove the large (31 or 32 mm) nuts from the end of driver-side and passenger-side Axles.
Push the Axle stub shafts into the hubs toward the transaxle with a round Drift or fingers until the stub shafts bottom in the hubs. Using a small ruler, measure the distance from the outboard tip of the stub shaft to the face of the hub on both the driver-side and the passenger side. These two measurements should be equal. If the measurements are not equal, THE MOTOR MOUNT POSITIONS MUST BE ASJUSTED SO THAT THE MEASUREMENTS ON BOTH SIDES ARE EQUAL.
Follow the motor mount lateral adjustment instructions for your generation vehicle. Failure to do so each time motor mounts are disturbed or replaced could result in CV Axle damage or failure.
 
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2008 Town and Country LX 245,000 miles
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It seems like several people recommend the OEM. Are there any good after market brands? What about filling the mounts with poly? It looks like the OEM cost around $450.
 

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2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
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Anchor is a good brand. Have a set that I packed with rubber hose to reduce movement after my OEMs shredded. They were still good when I took them off after 5 years. I'll be putting them back on soon.

Avoid Westar. Had a set of those and filled them with roofing poly before installing them. Ripped in under 2 years. Should've just did a full rip out and pour with harder poly, or polyed the Anchors.

@Long_Voyager94 can weigh in on better filled mounts.
 
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Not unless you're chasing a 1 second drop in 0-60 times like I was. :p It just makes them a bit tighter so less power is wasted in loading up the mounts.
 
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