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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did not like the other dipstick solutions because they did not stay in the tube like the factory cap, so I made my own dipstick out of the factory cap. The total cost was $3.27 from the local Ace Hardware store. I have not set the heights of the top and bottom read-ferules till I decide where to best place them. I am a little disappoineted with the visiblity and wicking of oil into the twisted cable. I think there is a decent solution for this and when I set the ferules for the reading, it may be resolved.
The core of the plug is filled with JB Weld. I also clipped excess cable but left it in the photo, so it was easy to see how it is made. Set the top ferule when you install the cap and bottom the cable in the tube. Large vice-grips worked for me with multiple crimps.

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I contemplated doing something like that, although I was going to use an old dipstick for it. Don't like the idea of a cable wiggling around and causing shavings.
 

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Interesting. I prefer a flat surface on the dipstick but can't twist it.
 

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I never liked how close the cable comes to the positive battery post, its a tight fit getting it down around those cable bundles and I always hold one hand between the positive side and the cable when checking. A shorter "dipstick" would be preferable to me, I will probably pick up one at the junkyard and notch my own.
 

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Ha, "VerRich" Mercedes tool. Luv the Chinese humor at times. 46" long though, only 16" goes in if I remember right, this is why I worry about hitting the battery terminal, lots of extra cable swinging around.
 

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Ha, "VerRich" Mercedes tool. Luv the Chinese humor at times. 46" long though, only 16" goes in if I remember right, this is why I worry about hitting the battery terminal, lots of extra cable swinging around.
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Then cut it dear Henry, dear Henry, cut it!"
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There appears to be a set screw holding the cable to the handle. Dismantle, cut to whatever length, reassemble.
Otherwise, cut a section out and splice in the handle using clothes line crimps (or whatever crimps work) or Gorilla tape or possibly a rod inside. I'm thinking MIG welder ......... maybe. :unsure:
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I would like to speak with the person, or persons, that decided to route the wiring harnesses right over the fill tube.
Might try to finesse them out of the way when summer gets here.
You can push the harness back a smidgen but it doesn't stay long. I work around it mostly. Getting a long neck funnel in there seems easy enough though .... just.

Chrysler had a contest to see who could come up with the most difficult way to check the transmission fluid level. The guys in the electrical wire and tape section won. Some dipsticks from another section came in with a close second place. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To see the fluid level clearly, I need to transfer the ATF onto a paper towel. I was thinking the cable needs something between the level limit ferules to improve the visual of the ATF level. One way would be to tack on a metal strip or slip on a narrow piece of metal tube. Those clothesline crimps might be a good candidate. I like my tool since it stays in the transmission and has the factory O-ring to seal it tight.
The China Replacement Auto Part would not reach the bottom of the tube if you cut it for your desired fluid levels. That might be OK.
 

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If you have an old "classic" frame wiper blade laying around, take one of the stainless springs from it and use it for a stick. Use a punch or rotary tool to mark the levels... epoxy the top into the plug.
Make sure to bend the top into a loop, lest it fall into the tube.
 

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My engine oil dipstick works fine as double duty, and for free.
Yes, the motor oil dipstick seems to be amendable to transmission fluid too. Even has the back side bare for additional markings. Handy, or what? :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you have an old "classic" frame wiper blade laying around, take one of the stainless springs from it and use it for a stick. Use a punch or rotary tool to mark the levels... epoxy the top into the plug.
Make sure to bend the top into a loop, lest it fall into the tube.
You will not be able to rotate the flat piece of metal inside the curved tube to install the plug. That is why wire or cable is better for this application.
 

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You will not be able to rotate the flat piece of metal inside the curved tube to install the plug. That is why wire or cable is better for this application.
No need to rotate the "stick", rotate the plug... make an epoxy 'puck' inside the plastic plug and make a "handle" on the outside (top of plastic plug)
 

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Just push the plug in and don't twist or twist it very little.
The plug won't be going anywhere regardless.
Get rid of the grooves on the plug, if need be.

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