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I happen to see daylight through the rear axle. The rust runs between the rear brake line supports. While this is not a typical axle, it does support the actual axles. The proper remedy would be to replace the axle but the car is not worth it.

I an thinking of getting a piece of pipe with a 2.9 inch inside diameter, then cutting it in half longways and either welding it over the existing "tube" or using muffler clamps to attach it.

Has anyone experienced this type of rust or anything similar? Has anyone a better idea? I will appreciate any comments. No duct tape, I have limits.
 

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Haven't heard of this. Why not just get a replacement axle from a boneyard? It will be safer than exhaust clamps.

Its not too bad of a job if the brake lines come off and the u-bolts aren't rusted beyond recognition.
 

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A friend of ours had one of those Ford minivans that went through a recall because the axles were breaking in two on them. Must be quite an experience, if running highway speed. I have never seen a MoPar rust through like that, though. The leaf spring eye at the front on the right side rusted in two on my 93 T & C, however. (I only saw it when I cut up the car for scrap.) Where are you located? I do still have the axle out of mine - I was thinking of building a small flat bed trailer with it.
 

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What an interesting concept you have on repairing the rear axle tube. I am experiencing the same issues on not one, but 2 of these vans and I frankly don't think its worth spending $150 at the bone yard and another $200 in labor that I arrived at by looing at 4 hrs of labor @ $50 per hour. I think the main determining factor is going to be WHERE the axle tube is rotted out, as if its rotted out on the end(s) I would go with the bone yard replacement. But, if its rotted out in areas far enough away from the ends, I think your ide is a good one and I am going to attempt it and will report back my findings. Stan
 

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Had the same happen to my 93.
Found out the sides of the axle assembly are cast iron and welding to cast iron requires lots of skill (from what i was told). i ended up finding a used axle about 3 hours away and drove to pick it up. Brought it back and had my mechanic put it on.
 

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That factory aux trans cooler is a nice piece too. :cool:
 

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I saw a van on craigslist with the same problem for $400. If I didn't already have so many vehicles and had a way to get it home, I already have a 2nd gen rear axle that I got for a trailer, but didn't use. Again, location helps a lot because I would rather give it away to a fellow minivan owner than sell it to make a trailer out of, as these vans are rare around here.

I think the 3rd gen vans are close enough in design measurements that a rear axle from one of those has a good chance of fitting.
 

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My 1994 Grand Caravan has the same rust through problem on the axle. I found that out while driving and heard a rubbing sound from the right rear tire caused by the axle bending. My local garage did a quick welding fix/reinforcement with steel tubing and angle iron. Because more holes could be seen on the axle the plan was to replace the entire axle & tube assembly (part no. 5272558 for 1986-1995 2 wheel drive w/o stabilizer bar) but I soon found out the $300 part is no longer available. So I figured to reinforce the existing axle, which is 3 inch OD, with a length of Walker 49058 exhaust pipe. This 3 1/4" OD pipe is .055" thick, which is thicker than the original axle steel. So with a Sawzall I cut the pipe to length, cut out sections for the brake line brackets and the previous repair location, and cut the pipe in half lengthwise. I had to cut the pipe in half because the metal was too thick to easily bend it open like a clamshell, wrap it around the axle, and bend it closed. The pipe halves overlap about 1/8" and I'll have my local garage weld the halves together, to the earlier repair, and to the axle hub. That should replace the strain carried by the original axle. For now I have the pipe halves held together with 3 1/4" heavy duty exhaust clamps I got on Amazon.com
DSC02831.JPG DSC02834.JPG DSC02833.JPG DSC02832.JPG
 

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My 1994 Grand Caravan has the same rust through problem on the axle. I found that out while driving and heard a rubbing sound from the right rear tire caused by the axle bending. My local garage did a quick welding fix/reinforcement with steel tubing and angle iron. Because more holes could be seen on the axle the plan was to replace the entire axle & tube assembly (part no. 5272558 for 1986-1995 2 wheel drive w/o stabilizer bar) but I soon found out the $300 part is no longer available. So I figured to reinforce the existing axle, which is 3 inch OD, with a length of Walker 49058 exhaust pipe. This 3 1/4" OD pipe is .055" thick, which is thicker than the original axle steel. So with a Sawzall I cut the pipe to length, cut out sections for the brake line brackets and the previous repair location, and cut the pipe in half lengthwise. I had to cut the pipe in half because the metal was too thick to easily bend it open like a clamshell, wrap it around the axle, and bend it closed. The pipe halves overlap about 1/8" and I'll have my local garage weld the halves together, to the earlier repair, and to the axle hub. That should replace the strain carried by the original axle. For now I have the pipe halves held together with 3 1/4" heavy duty exhaust clamps I got on Amazon.com
I'm sure the original axle was considerably thicker than .055" and made of a stronger grade of steel as well. I would not trust my life to this repair.
 

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Again, a LOCATION would help. I still have that used 2nd gen rear axle sitting outside on my driveway, stripped bare of bolt-on parts except spindles. I had used it on a tent trailer, then reverted the trailer back to stock and sold it. Now I might try to put it on the rear of my 4th gen AWD parts van so I can keep that rear axle for parts, and that van will be junked.
 

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I have one I saved out of our 93 Chrysler T & C. Scrapped the rest of it back in 2010, but saved the axle for a trailer. Ended up buying an aluminum (open) box trailer, but the Chrysler axle is still here, stored inside. As others have said, knowing your location would help.
 

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I saw a van on craigslist with the same problem for $400. If I didn't already have so many vehicles and had a way to get it home, I already have a 2nd gen rear axle that I got for a trailer, but didn't use. Again, location helps a lot because I would rather give it away to a fellow minivan owner than sell it to make a trailer out of, as these vans are rare around here.

I think the 3rd gen vans are close enough in design measurements that a rear axle from one of those has a good chance of fitting.
Probably the 1992 Caravan I picked up last winter. 73k original miles.
Got a good axle at the bone yard for $75, spent another $85 on Rockauto for all new parts for it. Took about 4 hours to swap axles out. Now for under $500 we have a great running/driving van.
 

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I have one I saved out of our 93 Chrysler T & C. Scrapped the rest of it back in 2010, but saved the axle for a trailer. Ended up buying an aluminum (open) box trailer, but the Chrysler axle is still here, stored inside. As others have said, knowing your location would help.
I'm in southern Ontario and need one for my 93, 477000 km and trying for 1,000,000km.
 

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I'm using the 2nd gen rear axle, currently putting it and the leaf springs on my 2001 parts van to make it roll. I have to get some 5 lug hubs for it so I can put some of my old wheels that I want to get rid of on it.

I have the AWD rear axle out of the van and have compared it side by side with the 2nd gen axle. The distance between the leaf spring holes/mounts is exactly the same. The length of the axle tube is roughly the same, but measuring hub mounting face to hub mounting face, the 2nd gen is narrower by maybe an inch? So, theoretically a 3rd or 4th gen rear axle would bolt right on (you just wouldn't use the panhard bar; multi-leaf spring packs don't use it). For the wheels, I may have to resort to bolting the wheels on backwards to clear the leaf springs and body. I won't be running any rear brakes at all, since I just need to turn the van around once (so I can pull the engine/transmission and front parts) and it has to roll onto a trailer for someone to haul away.

Just posting this to give some options, since I'm working on this right now. The 3rd/4th gen leaf springs are the same, but ARE 2-3 inches longer than the 2nd gen leaf springs. They are all the same width at 2 1/2 inches.
 

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I got the axle and springs on the van. I was wrong about the distance between spring mount holes on the axle - the 2nd gen axle is a little shorter. I had to use a ratcheting strap to pull the leaf springs together enough to get the bolts around the leaves and through the axle boss. It's on though, so just need to get some hubs and it's ready to roll.
 
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