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What's the story on your truck-how many speed transmission, mileage, driving style if electronic?

Every vehicle needs a good run every so often, to work smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
My truck is a 2018 Chevy 2500, with the six speed and gas engine. I never see the RPMs jumping around like they do in the van.
 

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Do you think there's actually a problem with the shifting from the videos? Or is it just different from what I'm used to in my truck (wife drives the van most of the time)
Your van seems to be operating nomal. The torque converter unlocks before the trans actually shifts, so you will see a slight rise in rpms before a shift. Changing your fluid for preventative maintanence is one thing. But you will not see a change in shift feel.

If you want see a change in shift feel, then disconnect the battery from its cables. Touch the two batteries cables together to reset the computer memory. Then when you drive it again, it starts learning the driver's habits from new.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I'm not worried about changing the shifting of the transmission, I just wanted to make sure there's nothing wrong.

I'll be changing the fluid and filter for preventative maintenance.
 

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My truck is a 2018 Chevy 2500, with the six speed and gas engine. I never see the RPMs jumping around like they do in the van.
There's some jumping around with mine, as mentioned in Post #5, around 45 mph. A couple of things come into play there:
  • engine rpms are pretty much limited to 1000 rpm minimum while driving. That's a computer control for shifting.
  • torque converter lockup comes into play at that speed
I will often play around with the accelerator at that speed to get the transmission into the higher gear (can feel the engine lugging somewhat).
 

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From the video with the eco button ON, I could clearly see the RPM jump a bit, but I could not see it in the videos with the eco button OFF. It looked normal to me.

Btw.my wife and I never drive with the eco button set to on. I never liked how the transmission shits with it set to on, so it's always off.
 

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From the video with the eco button ON, I could clearly see the RPM jump a bit, but I could not see it in the videos with the eco button OFF. It looked normal to me.

Btw.my wife and I never drive with the eco button set to on. I never liked how the transmission shits with it set to on, so it's always off.
Ecno is always on in my Van. Not much City driving here.
 

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Changing out struts and shocks to what ........ something that is less suitable and less durable than what you have now? Struts should be good for another 100,000 miles plus, the same for the shocks unless the dust shields are rusted out. The 50,000 mile interval ,or 100,000 mile interval, was invented by the shock/strut manufacturers so that they could sell more parts, then guarantee them for life via limited lifetime warranty, all in the interest of sales, not enhanced durability, using parts of a more universal nature, not specific to the vehicle. (n) for changing the struts or shocks. My 2002 GC had the original struts on it when sold back in 2018 @370,000 km.

Transmission service = what, not a flush I hope? Chrysler warns against flushes. Chrysler has issued various Service Bulletins over the years regarding the danger of flushes. Here's one such Bulletin:

If the shifting is a bit strange around 45 miles an hour, that's understandable as the torque converter and engine rpm control at 1,000 rpm come into play there. Sometimes the engine will lug at that speed, sometimes the transmission shifts down. Not using econ mode may smooth the shifting out some.

Should take the van on a 30 - 60 minute road trip every so often, like every couple of weeks, to give things a workout and to get rid of condensation in the oil.

Follow your Owner Manual for your maintenance work, not the Dealership's wish list.
I just read the bulletin, from 2009, but don't understand it. On previous vans, I used to get fluid changed, and flushed, intermittently.
 

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I always got worse mileage in Eco mode. Holds gears long after they reach peak mechanical advantage for the RPM, and waits until the engine is struggling with low RPMs before downshifting. I find Eco is best in stop-and-go traffic only.
 

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I would change the ATF/filter now, the plugs when convenient, and the struts/shocks only when the ride quality degrades.
 

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shifts the same as mine, just with two extra gears to go through on yours

if i'm very slow it'll stumble sometimes, if i'm fast it shifts better and i get a better torque band
 

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Greetings,

We are nearing 100k on our 2016 T&C and I'm looking into what services I want to do.

I'm thinking of swapping out the front shocks and struts, rear shocks, and a transmission service. My wife normally drives it but I have noticed that the RPMs have begun to surge a couple hundred just before it shifts, and I've never noticed this before. I checked the fluid. The fluid itself looks okay but I can't check the temperature so I'm not 100% sure on the level (why can't they just give us a dipstick with the correct hot and cold levels?)

I RPM surging doesn't seem to be causing any noticeable problems but it was enough to catch my attention the last time I road with her. We live in a rural area so it's not often the van doesn't completely warm up whenever it's going somewhere, and has never towed anything. Does this raise any red flags to anyone?
My experience with engine not warming up is a bad thermostat. In some postings that appears to be a common problem with this generation van.
 

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My experience with engine not warming up is a bad thermostat. In some postings that appears to be a common problem with this generation van.
I agree a bad thermostat may delay warm up, but not preventing it (unless you are driving in sub-zero conditions).

I don't agree thermostat failure is a common problem.

And lastly, O.P. doesn't have a failure to warm up problem.
 

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I agree a bad thermostat may delay warm up, but not preventing it (unless you are driving in sub-zero conditions).
even in the 80s, if i'm moving the engine will stay cold, it'll only get fully warm on HOT days, (>95) or if i'm sitting still for about 10 minutes
 

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I agree a bad thermostat may delay warm up, but not preventing it (unless you are driving in sub-zero conditions).

I don't agree thermostat failure is a common problem.

And lastly, O.P. doesn't have a failure to warm up problem.
I’m basing my comment on having several cars of the 25 I’ve owned over the past 30 years having a bad thermostat that wouldn’t allow the engine to reach the proper operating temperature even with ambient temperature in the sixties. Both cars failed E checks.
The fix was replacing the thermostat.
 

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I’m basing my comment on having several cars of the 25 I’ve owned over the past 30 years having a bad thermostat that wouldn’t allow the engine to reach the proper operating temperature even with ambient temperature in the sixties. Both cars failed E checks.
The fix was replacing the thermostat.
1.- O.P. never stated having problems warming up.
2.- Even without thermostat, engine will reach full operating temperature. Thermostat is there mainly to shorten warm up time.
3.- You mentioned thermostat failure is a common problem on this vehicles, is not.
 

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I've had bad thermostats, and sometimes it means the engine won't maintain temp while moving. Sitting in traffic or some other low airflow situation, the engine will get hot regardless.
 
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