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Discussion Starter #1
I had brake lines replaced on a 2000 GV with ABS at a local garage (from in front just before the braided section, to back over the gas tank). The finished job came back with slightly soft pedal action, but good enough for driving around - with the exception of when the ABS was activated, especially over ice or wet pavement. First time I was backing out of the hilly wet driveway - no brakes for a split second when the ABS activated. Then a patch of ice driving forward - no brakes for a brief moment and ABS. Lastly, the ABS locked my brakes up on gravel twice making the van coming to a complete stop before they released.

Now the garage said they power bled the lines but when I asked if they had the PBB III, or whatever has been mentioned in these forums, the guy said I used to work at Chrysler and we did these all the time.

My concern is I am going to get "You now need a new master cylinder." Or "The ABS needs to be replaced." On the phone, they said I have a sluggish disk caliper which I do, but why would that affect the brake pedal going to the floor suddenly while the ABS kicked in?
 

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I bet they got air in the system and didn't have the DRB scanner tool to cycle the ABS pump while bleeding. If you're a DIY'er, now's the right time of year to bleed the brakes yourself. You bleed them all a bit, then go out and take a drive to lock up the brakes a few times (to get the ABS pump to kick in), then go home and re-bleed. By cycling the ABS pump yourself in this crude way, you'll get the air bubbles worked out of the system.
 

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Over and Over



Hey guys new to the forum here.....
1997 Grand Caravan... I had replaced both rear lines due to them rusting open by the braid. I bled the brake the conventional way pump, pump hold release , close pump pump hold. I have had to do this several times. After bleeding them they feel great ... nice and tight. After driving the van they gradually get spongy.... and I bleed them again and they are fine again and then again..... [email protected]@#$%^&*. I have bled them at least 5 times now. Of course I didn't know that this van should be bled differently. I always did rr,rl,fr,fl. So I will try the other way and see how it goes. I have no leaks so air can't be getting in somewhere but every time I bleed them I have pockets of air in the rr and almost like a milkshake in the fl. No air in fr or rl. Can there be air trapped int the ABS block? The ABS block had drained totally. Anyone run into the same situation.

Thanks

Chris
 

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Hi.

As i understand you have to use a DRBIII or similar if the abs has run dry to get the air out.


Voyager -04 3.3l V6
 

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See this thread: http://www.allpar.com/forums/topic/132153-how-do-i-bleed-antilock-brakes-on-99-grand-caravan/?hl=+bleeding++brakes#entry11157030

There is a specific procedure for bleeding ABS brakes on the 3rd gen listed there. My '97 would always have a soft pedal unless I bled the brakes using that procedure.

For future reference, here is how the factory service manual explains to bleed the brakes for '97 ABS:
1.) Left Rear
2.) Right Front
3.) Right Rear
4.) Right Front

Also, I have always had a partner pump the brakes up, hold down on the pedal while I open the bleeder quick, then close it. Pump up brakes again, bleed quick, close, pump up brakes again, etc. It is important that the partner is holding the brake pedal down while you close the bleeder, if they lift the pedal while the bleeder is open, the air goes right back in.

Even after I knew that I had air in the system, I did not need to have the ABS cycled to get the firm pedal back - just followed the procedure listed above...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The mechanic did exactly what you suggested. I still get a soft pedal every time the ABS engages. I believe you need the DRBIII to do the proper line bleeding. Otherwise why have a piece of equipment to do just that... bleed the ABS?
 

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You don't NEED the DRBIII to bleed the ABS, but it does make it faster. Go out and drive it, and lock up the brakes a few times on a gravel or snowy road - - does the same thing as the DRB for free. While on the topic of the ABS, there is a part called an accumulator that can start leaking, and make it IMPOSSIBLE to bleed all the air out of the system. I believe Kenmore63 had that problem.

The 4th (last) wheel to bleed in the procedure is the LEFT FRONT, so you might want to correct that typo....

I always gravity bleed since I never have a helper, and it works. Just remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and open the bleeder, and let gravity do it's thing. You can also use a hand-operated vacuum pump bleeding set to bleed this way. Just make sure to keep the fluid topped up.
 

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For future reference, here is how the factory service manual explains to bleed the brakes for '97 ABS:
1.) Left Rear
2.) Right Front
3.) Right Rear
4.) Left Front
The 4th (last) wheel to bleed in the procedure is the LEFT FRONT, so you might want to correct that typo...
Oops! Typing faster than I was thinking... hopefully a moderator can go in and fix that error in my original post. Thanks!
 

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You don't NEED the DRBIII to bleed the ABS, but it does make it faster. Go out and drive it, and lock up the brakes a few times on a gravel or snowy road - - does the same thing as the DRB for free. While on the topic of the ABS, there is a part called an accumulator that can start leaking, and make it IMPOSSIBLE to bleed all the air out of the system. I believe Kenmore63 had that problem.

The 4th (last) wheel to bleed in the procedure is the LEFT FRONT, so you might want to correct that typo....

I always gravity bleed since I never have a helper, and it works. Just remove the cap from the brake fluid reservoir and open the bleeder, and let gravity do it's thing. You can also use a hand-operated vacuum pump bleeding set to bleed this way. Just make sure to keep the fluid topped up.
Where is this accumulator and if it is leaking wouldn't I have brake fluid leaking from it?
I have no fluid leaks but yet constant air coming from the driver front wheel and a little from the passenger rear.
 
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