The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner
1 - 20 of 68 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 SXT 42,000 miles. Purchased new. East central Florida. Garage kept. Short trip town driving. Oil & filter changed 2 times a year, 5w30 Pennzoil synthetic, Mopar filters. Still like new inside and out. My questions: Changing Trans oil and filter for 10 year service. (Mopar fluid and filter) Adding a Dorman drain pan with plug. Have gasket that came with Doman pan. Should I just use gasket alone, add some type of sealer to gasket, or use a sealer only like the factory. I have the time to let it drain for several days. This is my last vehicle (I'm 79) so I want it to last the rest of my life. What does the forum recommend? I have syphoned trans fluid out using an air powered syphon twice in the past just to be able to change some of the fluid and replaced with Mopar fluid the same amount removed. Completely leak free.
Antifreeze and thermostat housing change next week. Thanks as always.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mopar John

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Gasket or sealer, never both. I would use the dorman gasket only if it is rubber and not cork. One can buy the filter and gasket as a set, I have used WIX in the past.

Personally, I would forgo the pan drop and filter at this time. The atf replacements you have done are more than sufficient for 42K miles.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
30,166 Posts
Fel-Pro makes a substantial gasket - FEL-PRO TOS18757. It's a molded gasket.

This comes flat and not rolled up or just chucked in a box.
No sealer or RTV recommended, if I remember correctly. Could interfere with the gasket's sealing. I think the gaskets are siliconed from the factory. You can call a Fel-Pro technical line.
  • Adhesives should only be used on “paper type” or cork/rubber type gaskets.
  • No adhesive will stick to silicone.
  • Molded silicone gaskets must be installed dry.
  • Adhesives or RTV used in excess can potentially get into the crankcase and oil galleys and cause engine damage.
If sealant is needed, they will likely provide it with the gasket like they do with some engine gaskets.

Do you use gasket sealer on Fel-Pro gaskets?

Modern facing materials and Fel-Pro's proprietary coatings will compensate for minor surface imperfections, resist scrubbing, and provide the proper amount of torque retention to create a true no-retorque head gasket. Use no sealers, adhesives or other additives with these gaskets.
How To Install Gaskets Clean & Dry - Fel-Pro
For washers, you could go to crush washers, copper or aluminum, torqued to 25 or 33 ft.lb. depending on bolt size. It's recommended that they be used only one time but I, and others, have used them more than once without any leaks. Low pressure stuff, not like brakes banjo connection. They are not expensive. You can buy them by the container full from Amazon.

Last, but not least:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Busterbear

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the quick responses. It so happens that the Pan gasket I purchased is the Fel-Pro 18757. So it's gasket without sealer to clean dry surfaces and properly torqued with a torque wrench. Thanks again!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
30,166 Posts
Torque in FSM of 53 inch lbs, appears half way there, but may be specific to the Mopar RTV used. For the gasket, it's 105 inch lbs. per various sources, including Haynes.
41TE (4-speed)165 in-lbs
62TE (6-speed)105 in-lbs
 
  • Like
Reactions: Busterbear

·
Registered
Joined
·
564 Posts
Honestly I would just do a cooler line exchange. Even if you did purchase a pan. Pan drop is only good for about 4-5qts.

Super easy and can be don from the top of the engine.
Just disconnect the line with a black ring and attach a vinyl line to it. Let the engine pump out the ATF, it will be about 4qts before air starts coming out. Top off and repeat until clear ATF comes out. It took me around 11qts for a full flush. Took about 30 minutes.

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Rim Gas Automotive wheel system

Hood Automotive lighting Automotive design Automotive tire Motor vehicle
 

·
Registered
2017 DGC SXT
Joined
·
374 Posts
Could the transmission be damaged by running the engine and taking fluid out? I’m worried that taking fluid out with the engine running could deprive the transmission of fluid and maybe cause a whine or permanent damage.
 

·
Registered
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
Joined
·
5,319 Posts
Could the transmission be damaged by running the engine and taking fluid out? I’m worried that taking fluid out with the engine running could deprive the transmission of fluid and maybe cause a whine or permanent damage.
He's feeding in through one tube and draining through the other. As long as it has fluid to pull in, there's no danger. I ran mine at idle with a large leak when I pulled the line pressure plug, expecting to be able to screw it back in after draining a quart. Plug shot across the shop and I had to lower the van from the lift to turn it off. Probably spat out about 3 quarts. I was pissed. :p
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Mtfix20

·
Registered
2017 DGC SXT
Joined
·
374 Posts
Thanks for clarifying. I might try this “flush” on my transmission some time. I saw some small, thin flakes in the bottom of the pan when I recently did a fluid and filter service. There wasn’t any glittery stuff all throughout the fluid and no big chunks or shavings. Just some flakes at the bottom of the pan.

I will probably do the flush like this: have a big container that fills up with old fluid and keep adding new fluid through the dipstick tube simultaneously.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,997 Posts
ALL STOP!

Sorry guys but really. 42,000 miles and it is still factory sealed... do not touch a thing, and it is not leaking yet?

ESPECIALLY if you have the ability to siphon the fluid out and have done so twice already?
As long as you are using ATF +4 fluid and nothing else... I'd be done right there.

... well let's not EVEN go that crazy going mopar +4 ( unless you want to ) with the fluid BUT as long as it is certified on this list:

I'd recommend not touching it.
But if you really have to, doing one or two two more siphon changes and leave it be.
Asides, Chrysler say's it is lifetime fluid and for you my senior friend, it very well me be. I hope you've got at very least, another 100,000 more miles in you and some twenty plus more years behind the wheel.
Take it easy.... You got a good vehicle, good visibility, (depending on your height great ergonomics ), fair fuel economy and should be dependable. Heck, you could probably make arrangements for you to be carried to your final resting place in it... You'll save at least a thousand right there.

At least wait until it starts to seep
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,997 Posts
Torque in FSM of 53 inch lbs, appears half way there, but may be specific to the Mopar RTV used. For the gasket, it's 105 inch lbs. per various sources, including Haynes.
41TE (4-speed)165 in-lbs
62TE (6-speed)105 in-lbs
Shame on you... encouraging this foolishness.
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Jeepman

·
Registered
Joined
·
131 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for all the great responses. But I am going to change the filter and pan ONLY because I drive it like I'm still 17 years old (i.e. like I stole it). Their seems to be a fair amount of play between the ring and pinion gears, so a rebuild is in the future. I actually had the ring gear break on my old 96 Dodge GCV ES (41TE)(drove it the same way). It was 17 years old when I traded it on the 13 and salesman were showing it to potential buyers before I signed the new contract. That, but that was worth another $500. At 17, it looked almost new inside and out, but I was on the 4th BCM and the exhaust system was starting to leak, tires worn. All in all about as nice of a 17 year old daily driver you could find, but I wanted one last new vehicle to last me till I die or have to stop driving. Still have excellent reflexes and reasonable good health for my age, but the inevitable is sneaking up. Thanks again.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
30,166 Posts
Shame on you... encouraging this foolishness.
Let Professor Haynes be my guide. He uses a transmission gasket. (y)
Haynes tells us how to do it best from a DIYer/replacement perspective.
Dorman makes parts to replace Chrysler's poor plastic.
Then there's this Forum with some great members, even one called FabricGATOR (the story is out on that name and its origins). Great guy though. (y)
What a support system these Vans have. Ha, ha

Joking aside, the FSM is criticized for mistakes and Haynes, of course, is only a guide, not specific nor complete enough, being on a diet compared to the FSM. Haynes has served me well over the years though. I still have one for 1984 thru 1995.

PSST: Chrysler once made a reusable gasket for the 41TE, early on, there was concern about uncured RTV getting in the transmission. Go figure. I think RTV needs air to cure properly. It's cheaper, coming off the assembly line, of course. That's why they use it. A DIYer should treat his/her transmission to a good gasket, one to be proud of, and whistle a tune while on his/her back under a jack stand supported vehicle, on a chilly winter's day. Not everybody has a hoist in a heated work bay. :)
 

·
Registered
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
Joined
·
5,319 Posts
Shame on you... encouraging this foolishness.
Same foolishness he's always encouraged. :p I go with Ultra Grey RTV. Never had a leak. For best results, apply then seat the pan against the RTV and let it sit like that for a few hours, then full tighten.

42k is still very low for a fluid change. I'd wait until 60k or close to it. Normal schedule (which is transmission suicide) is 120k, sever service is 60k - and should be the normal service interval. Mine needed it at 67k. There have been failures from lack of maintenance as low as 80k.

My van regularly sees WOT and 100+MPH. That doesn't do as much as you think it does. Driving like an old man will do more damage, especially when Eco is engaged. This trans is shift happy at low demand. Shift points are too close to typical speed limits, so if you're trying to hold 45 or 55 you will feel the trans shift back and forth between gears almost constantly. Those slow engaging shifts are what dumps all the clutch material into the fluid and ends up clogging the filter.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,997 Posts
Same foolishness he's always encouraged. :p I go with Ultra Grey RTV. Never had a leak. For best results, apply then seat the pan against the RTV and let it sit like that for a few hours, then full tighten.

42k is still very low for a fluid change. I'd wait until 60k or close to it. Normal schedule (which is transmission suicide) is 120k, sever service is 60k - and should be the normal service interval. Mine needed it at 67k. There have been failures from lack of maintenance as low as 80k.
You guys are like a hoard of service advisors at Sears or MayPop Tires...

Would you really advise your dad to open a perfectly good, clean, fully functional, non leaking transmission at 42,000 miles?? Severe duty or not... if it aint broke, don't mess wit it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,997 Posts
To me foolishness is believing Chrysler that ATF is a lifetime fluid.
Of course not, but 42K really guys?

If you really wanted to be proactive I'd drain siphon the fluid, pull the drive shafts, and replace the lip seals before I refilled it. But that is just me and what do I know. I'm just some guy on the internet.

I have the Dorman drain plug pan. I originally installed it with the supplied gasket.

When I rebuilt my transmission, I opted to do it like Mopar did it at the factory. I used the same silicone for the Mopar transmission only specific sealant. I did mine out of the vehicle on a work bench, sober.
I did like someone above advised about apply sealant to clean, alcohol dried, pristine surfaces, bring mating surface close to touch wile still fresh, allow silicon to almost cure an hour or so, then torque to spec.. I always try to be very meticulous. It was another week or so before vehicle installation./ After installation, when filling, I sure had a leak at the pan, and had to re-seal it upside down on the lift, with fluid seeping onto the surfaces... I couldn't believe it.



I vehemently agree with the very second post, that at 42K miles and two siphon refills, do not crack open that pan.
Personally, I would forgo the pan drop and filter at this time. The atf replacements you have done are more than sufficient for 42K miles.
It is like this,
What if I said that I'm going to take my healthy, 14 year old, athletic son down to another country to get him an appendectomy, just because some times those things go bad????

(just an example, I did not spawn, and I certainly would not do such a thing to either my child or my beloved minivan)
Someone would be calling the authorities...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
30,166 Posts
You guys are like a hoard of service advisors at Sears or MayPop Tires...

Would you really advise your dad to open a perfectly good, clean, fully functional, non leaking transmission at 42,000 miles?? Severe duty or not... if it aint broke, don't mess wit it.

:) That's why my transmission fluid hasn't been changed at 100,000 miles yet, and I go two 6,000 mile oil changes on a FRAM XG11665 oil filter. I do a fair amount of highway driving through.
The OP wants to install a transmission pan with a drain plug, something Chrysler should have done at the factory.
Changing the filter early isn't a bad idea either, gets rid of debris from the manufacturing process.
Not my style but makes good sense to me. To each his own.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,997 Posts
:) That's why my transmission fluid hasn't been changed at 100,000 miles yet, and I go two 6,000 mile oil changes on a FRAM XG11665 oil filter. I do a fair amount of highway driving through.
The OP wants to install a transmission pan with a drain plug, something Chrysler should have done at the factory.
Changing the filter early isn't a bad idea either, gets rid of debris from the manufacturing process.
Not my style but makes good sense to me. To each his own.
I'd suspect that the move away from dip sticks and T fluid changes are that there is more of a possibility on contamination from allowing the consumers (and "Slippery and Brown Qwik oil change franchise) from adding, using, wiping with a dirty sandy rag FOD (foreign object damage)

We all should know by now not to rely on the counter person at the Oh oh oh Riley auto parts to advise us on what is best practice or troubleshooting.

I'll turn my bullhorn off and collect my soap box now, besides, I think I hear my mom calling me for dinner...
 
  • Like
Reactions: R3v $teve
1 - 20 of 68 Posts
Top