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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all.
Problem #1: DVD player, no monitor, 2000 mile road trip in 7 days with 3 kids ages 5-7.
Problem #2: seats are high - my 5'11" head hits the ceiling and my 5' tall wife's feet are 3-4" away from the floor (pedals adjusted so she reaches those). Again, road trip in 7 days. Power seats don't adjust any lower.
Problem #3: general worry after reading reviews - rotors, mpg - wondering what real world owners experience. We bought this from our next door neighbor's estate. It is a dealer-serviced car, garaged, clean, waxed, 35k miles over 16 years driven maybe 1000-1500 miles over the last year by a kindly old lady. New oil change.

Also, for kicks, what would a fair price range be for this car. (Can I even ask this question here?) We didn't want to lowball the estate but now I wonder, did we overpay? Online estimates vary WILDLY.
 

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Problem #3: general worry after reading reviews - rotors, mpg - wondering what real world owners experience. We bought this from our next door neighbor's estate. It is a dealer-serviced car, garaged, clean, waxed, 35k miles over 16 years driven maybe 1000-1500 miles over the last year by a kindly old lady. New oil change.
the only thing i would worry about is seals and hoses, rubber parts dry rot on vehicles that sit for a long time, if you feel that the hoses are still soft and pliable it should be fine. make sure none of the brakes are dragging, and watch for excessive oil consumption if it's a 3.8

strongly consider replacing the tires if it hasn't recently been done

Also, for kicks, what would a fair price range be for this car.
i wouldn't pay more than 5000 for it, somewhere up to 6000 at the absolute most. it's really cool that it's only 35,000 miles, but it's also getting old. age kills parts too, not just mileage. it's also only a minivan.

i've seen people asking upwards of 7000 for 2001s under 100,000 miles, which is absolute insanity. one could only imagine why the listings stay up for years. even my own van isn't worth more than about 1000 - 1500, they don't hold any value
 

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Welcome aboard,
#1, are you saying the monitor doesn't work or is missing? Assuming former, your only chance of fixing it in under 7 days is local salvage yard - try car-part.com and see if any local place has a Ltd or Touring model from '06 or '07 with DVD system intact. You might want to take a look at the connector on back of head unit just to make sure it's plugged in, but most likely it's the backlight (try shining a very strong light at it and see if any pixels are changing).
#2, seats adjust fore/aft and recline - you may have to utilize all those in addition to height adjust
#3, what's the problem? take it on a "local" 3-500 mile trip before committing to the road trip and take it to your mechanic to go over it (aka per-purchase type inspection)
 

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We need a picture, some on here would salivate over that find. It will likely have a few cobwebs but you can work through those. Engine and transmission are hardly broke in.
Rust free?
Was it garaged?
Brake rotors don't like sitting around.
Here, I would do is get it corrosion protected, probably 2 times in the first year. Fluid Film is a corrosion protectant with a well known record. Some don't work that well. Be choosey. Fluid Film will protect metal, electrical and hoses.
Yes, get it on a hoist and looked at by a trusted mechanic.
 

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I would need to see pics too, before giving an opinion on estimate.
Sounds like a cool find.

If it is an easy fix go for it on the DVD player. But if it's not easy don't spend too much time/$$. My van has the dvd/bluray players but the kids use this portable DVD player which was an Xmas present this year. They LOVE it and take it evywhr. It has very good battery life. They have beat the heck out of it and it's still going strong. Also has a larger 14" screen, all for $80.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081DPZLCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
 

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I'm 5'11" and I don't have a problem hitting my head on the ceiling, and I have a sunroof van. I think you need to adjust the seat lower with the power adjust buttons on the side of the seat. Maybe they're not working? The seat goes pretty low. I always have my drivers seat set up at least 3/4 of the way because I like the "driving a truck" height. My wife about hits her head when she first gets in, even though she's a couple of inches shorter than me. Her height is in her torso, and mine is apparently in my legs.

Both the front and back of the seat (bottom cushion) should go up and down, separate of the reclining backrest.
 
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Mirror-like finish, waxed, garaged

Baron - Good call on the hoses. Of course. I was in a swirl on this purchase since it came at me quickly and other things were going on. I will check them out tomorrow. I will check the oil tomorrow and monitor it over the next 100-500 miles at every stop. Recent brakes. Tires not new but no dry rot and plenty of tread.

atoman - #1: It has no monitor. I understand now that having a T&C with a DVD player yet without a monitor is not uncommon but I'm still surprised. The pic above shows it only has the climate control thing but I will attempt to remove that tomorrow I order to see if it has connectors already in place for a monitor. If it does then I will head off to a salvage yard. #2: Yeah, I figured but I am still hoping I can lower it. I'll look at it closely tomorrow and maybe take it to a dealer or mechanic to verify I didn't miss something. #3: I'm just attempting to prepare for future repairs that's all. I want to get a clearer picture of what to expect than I got from online reviews since those typically are typed by unhappy owners.

Jeepman - Garaged, hand washed and waxed, rust free except for one area that has bubbling paint the area of a jar lid. "Fluid Film is a corrosion protectant with a well known record." GREAT advice. Will do.

2016T&C LP - "portable DVD player...14" screen, all for $80" THANKS for the link too. Busy days so I'll take that advice.

Road Ripper - Seats: Ours has a sunroof too. I sure hope something is off because the seat bottom doesn't tip much but the manual states that the back (tail bone area) is fixed and the front tips up and down. Seems silly to me. I will put my eyeballs closer to it tomorrow.

Everyone so far - Man! Thank you. I never expected this much advice this fast. Thank you for taking the time to write.
 

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Mirror-like finish, waxed, garaged

Baron - Good call on the hoses. Of course. I was in a swirl on this purchase since it came at me quickly and other things were going on. I will check them out tomorrow. I will check the oil tomorrow and monitor it over the next 100-500 miles at every stop. Recent brakes. Tires not new but no dry rot and plenty of tread.

atoman - #1: It has no monitor. I understand now that having a T&C with a DVD player yet without a monitor is not uncommon but I'm still surprised. The pic above shows it only has the climate control thing but I will attempt to remove that tomorrow I order to see if it has connectors already in place for a monitor. If it does then I will head off to a salvage yard. #2: Yeah, I figured but I am still hoping I can lower it. I'll look at it closely tomorrow and maybe take it to a dealer or mechanic to verify I didn't miss something. #3: I'm just attempting to prepare for future repairs that's all. I want to get a clearer picture of what to expect than I got from online reviews since those typically are typed by unhappy owners.

Jeepman - Garaged, hand washed and waxed, rust free except for one area that has bubbling paint the area of a jar lid. "Fluid Film is a corrosion protectant with a well known record." GREAT advice. Will do.

2016T&C LP - "portable DVD player...14" screen, all for $80" THANKS for the link too. Busy days so I'll take that advice.

Road Ripper - Seats: Ours has a sunroof too. I sure hope something is off because the seat bottom doesn't tip much but the manual states that the back (tail bone area) is fixed and the front tips up and down. Seems silly to me. I will put my eyeballs closer to it tomorrow.

Everyone so far - Man! Thank you. I never expected this much advice this fast. Thank you for taking the time to write.
Stay with 5W30 engine oil and don't use the 5W20. After years of owning these vans Chrysler changed the oil requirement to help get their MPG numbers up a tad. There is no real difference with us owners for MPG improvement.

5W30 after many miles will still be durable in the 2006.

My 2005 van, I did the 5W20 until coming to this forum and found out that the 5W20 weeps and seeps other places to cause gasket leaks, PVC troubles, and more oil consumption.

The 3.3L and 3.8L are about 35 years of production. 5W30 was/is the main staple oil for 90% of those model years. Do not be duped into using 5W20.
 
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Beautiful van! I think mine is the same color (black metallic) and is a T&C Limited AWD that I've modded a little. It was rusty when I got it and got worse, so decided to have some fun and make it more utilitarian than pristine. It's a 2004, the last of the AWD vans for a great while and the last year before stow and go. It has the DVD player and monitor. I can't imagine why a van would have the DVD player and no monitor, unless the player was swapped in at some point? My DVD player is separate from the radio, down over the cup holder and holds 5-6 DVDs in it. It may have some RCA inputs or outputs on the front of it, so that might enable using an external monitor. I never tried it and barely used it (only used it the night we bought it coming back from Moorhead to St. Cloud).

2005 and later 3.8L engines have a habit of using a lot of oil. Even though mine is a 2004, it used a lot of oil at first because it wasn't driven much (probably someone's extra winter vehicle). I had to add oil for the first half a year to a year, until my daily driving it loosened up the rings and it doesn't use much oil between my biannual changes now (spring and fall). I use either 5w-30 or 10w-30 in the summer, and switch to 0w-20 in the winter for the subzero starts. I once left the FULL SYNTHETIC 0w-20 oil in until July one year, and the engine ran great! The temps were around 80*F. This is a van with 200,000 miles on it too, currently at 221,945 miles. I also added a battery wrap thing that you plug in and it heats the battery to help with cold starts. That was necessary when I had to start it on some mornings when it was -45*F, and I also have a block heater that was plugged in, too. People might say these vans are old, but if you maintain them they will last a very long time. So, keep some oil on hand for the first half a year or more and check the level often. Over time you may find the consumption diminishes. (y)

Since it hasn't been driven much, it may also have blow-by until the piston rings loosen up. This means the PCV valve will blow used oil into the intake plenum via an upside-down U-shaped hose on the top of the plenum going to behind it (rear valve cover). It will dump oil into the intake and make it gummy. I found standing oil in mine when I removed it (the plenum) to change the spark plugs. You could make a catch can to keep the oil out of the intake, or run it into a small vented bottle and plug the hole in the upper plenum where the hose connects. When it stops putting oil into the small bottle, then it can be hooked back up like stock.

The transmission and power steering should take ATF+4 fluid; use ONLY that fluid and not the "universal for all models" fluid. Have a proper transmission service done (pan drop, filter change and new fluid) I think it is at 90,000 miles now? On my 3rd gen van it was every 60,000 miles, and it was used in severe service (stop and go, towing a little, loaded down to help move things, big temperature fluctuations). That van has 225,000 miles on it and still drove great. Reverse is weak in these transmissions (only two friction disks) so avoid backing up hills with a trailer or fully loaded if you can. The transmission coolers in the later vans (2005 and later) was paired up with the A/C condenser and sometimes leak. If it does, people have just disconnected it and installed a standalone aftermarket cooler instead as a cheaper alternative.

If the brake fluid looks dark in the reservoir, it has absorbed water and should be flushed. The calipers are the first thing to get water in them and seize up, so even though the van has low miles, the age of the fluid and time might have allowed it to absorb water. Flushing/bleeding the brake system will keep fresh fluid in all the parts and keep them from rusting internally and seizing. I just had my front calipers start seizing up on me last year, when they were about 11-12 years old (autozone calipers). Replaced them both and no problems with them since.

Don't forget to check the spare tire too! On the stow N go vans, it is under the FRONT/middle of the van towards the driver's side and is a space saver spare. If you want a full size spare, you'll have to get your own and store it inside the van (for long trips?).

Here's my van. This was before I hit a deer and wrecked the front passenger corner, door and fender. I replaced the door and fender, and the strut/hub, and still have to replace the bumper cover and headlights. This is back in her prime, the 2nd year I owned it after lifting it that spring.

Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Stay with 5W30 engine oil and don't use the 5W20. After years of owning these vans Chrysler changed the oil requirement to help get their MPG numbers up a tad. There is no real difference with us owners for MPG improvement.

5W30 after many miles will still be durable in the 2006.

My 2005 van, I did the 5W20 until coming to this forum and found out that the 5W20 weeps and seeps other places to cause gasket leaks, PVC troubles, and more oil consumption.

The 3.3L and 3.8L are about 35 years of production. 5W30 was/is the main staple oil for 90% of those model years. Do not be duped into using 5W20.
Good tip. MPG decrease from switching to 5W30 is reportedly only 1%. Better to check tire pressure and adjust driving habits. And use 5W30 for less oil consumption, etc.
 

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It has no monitor.
In that case, forget about it - get an aftermarket system or a portable unit. I wouldn't even poke around for wiring - the factory screens are pretty small and require cutting a hole in the headliner (and kids have to recline their seats or strain their necks to look up at the headliner..)

If you really want the factory system, find a u-pull yard nearby and grab the whole overhead rail system. Though, you said sunroof and that's probably why it doesn't have the overhead storage...

Do check the date on that battery, unless it was on a battery minder while garaged, these vans tend to go through a battery every 3 years. If it's near that age, pack a portable booster pack or at least have the battery load tested (especially if planning on traveling through colder climates/locals).

Vans this age tend to suffer from separating and drooping headliner fabric, yours was parked inside so perhaps won't happen for a while.

Make sure when you check coolant level, to look inside the radiator (not just overflow res.). It's common for plastic to metal seams to start weeping (but usually not before well over 100Kmi)

Check the date code on DOT stamp on those tires, hopefully they're not factory originals.
 

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Good tip. MPG decrease from switching to 5W30 is reportedly only 1%. Better to check tire pressure and adjust driving habits. And use 5W30 for less oil consumption, etc.
Going to lighter viscosity oils is sacrificing durability for the sake of "greenwashing" to get some CAFE credits (only in North America) IMO.
To really have a positive impact on the environment they could band Ford F150s being used as family sedans.
:)

For best performance and maximum protection under all types of operating conditions, the manufacturer only recommends engine oils that are API Certified and meet the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS-6395.
NOTE: MOPAR SAE 5W-30 engine oil approved to FCA Material Standard MS-6395 such as Pennzoil, Shell Helix or equivalent may be used when SAE 5W-20 engine oil meeting MS-6395 is not available.
That's from a 5th Generation Owner's Manual and is Chrysler's "out" to use 5W-30, a more robust oil. If one has a choice, why go lighter on durability.

5W-30 downgrade to 5W-20 is interesting when comparing the same engines used in Europe. Ford, for example, a leader in using 5W-20 in North America, was calling for 5W-30 in the same engines in Europe, some years back. Who's the loser?

That's my story and I have stuck to it over the years. Maybe there will be a 0W-0 oil recommended sometime in the future. :)
 

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Beautiful van! RIGHT
The transmission and power steering should take ATF+4 fluid; use ONLY that fluid and not the "universal for all models" fluid. Have a proper transmission service done (pan drop, filter change and new fluid) I think it is at 90,000 miles now? On my 3rd gen van it was every 60,000 miles, and it was used in severe service (stop and go, towing a little, loaded down to help move things, big temperature fluctuations).
Wrong, for the 4th Generation 41TE:
Change the automatic transmission fluid and filter* - 60,000 miles
*This maintenance is required only for police, taxi, limousine type operation, or trailer towing.
Nothing to do with stop and go driving or temperature variations. Transmission and engine are two different animals for maintenance.

Otherwise, no fluid and filter change for the 120,000 miles shown in the Schedules A or B.

Same for the 5th Generation except there is a change specified for 120,000 miles regardless. That schedule covers a longer period for maintenance items - 150,000 miles.
 

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Yeah I wasn't sure so I usually write "I think" when not sure. Thanks for the clarification.

Not that I agree with it however. Anything other than mostly highway/freeway driving is considered severe service. It should be common sense that changing the fluid at more frequent intervals like the 60K services is better than leaving it and possibly damaging the transmission due to neglect. Fluid is cheaper than another transmission. That, and "rebuilt" transmissions have a bad habit of not lasting as long as the original (compared to remanufactured).

I think the filter is important to change after the first 60k miles to clear out all the sediment from breaking it in. After that, I would only change the filter at a much higher mileage, and just change out 4-5 quarts of fluid every 60k. Cheap insurance. You can even install a pan with a drain plug when you change the filter to make this easier, or know which cooler hose to remove and let the engine pump it out, and dump in new fluid.

I haven't even changed the fluid in my AWD, even when I first got it. Maybe I'm channeling Levy? :LOL: It had 188,000 when I got it, and I bought the pan with a drain plug in it and filter, but never did it. I was going to swap in a different engine, so figured I'd wait until I did that (but that hasn't happened yet). Now 4 years later with lots of short trips and some towing, at almost 222,000 miles and I still haven't changed it. I DO have a couple of spare transmissions for it laying around though, and thought about swapping in my lower mile 2002 with 126,500 miles on it. That one is untested though, and my other has 225,000 on it and I did test drive it/is good. Doesn't motivate me to change it when ATF+4 is almost $8 a quart now either.

Bottom line: Know what you have, keep track of usage and maintain it and it will take care of you. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just finished reviewing the maintenance schedule for Normal driving conditions (Chicago suburbs) when I saw some recent posts. I definitely have a ways to go on sparks, trans fluid, PCV, and serpentine belt... but that is following miles logged but using months in service (!!) they have all long past - lets see... its been 16 years x12 months + 2 months = 186 months!

Advice & Inspection summary:
  1. Hoses are soft and pliable.
  2. Serpentine belt looks great
  3. Rubber parts have no dry rot except for
  4. A little dry rot on the tires (factory original) but not bad at all (garaged) and good tread
  5. The front seats cannot be lowered more. The driver’s seat is as low as it can go but it is jammed and unadjustable. I like to be fairly upright for maximum long-drive comfort but it looks like I will have to adjust. When the seat is back further it is also lower so I have raised the pedals to their maximum extension which serves both my needs and my 5’0” tall wife.
  6. DVD update - my wife found a strap designed to hang her tablet on the back of a front headrest. That will work for now.
  7. I have yet to remove the climate control thing on the ceiling and inspect there for monitor wires and connections. I might not mess with it.
  8. Rotors look good, sound good and feel good. Pads are ok. Front brakes 6 years and 5k miles ago: new pads, rotors resurfaced, calipers cleaned.
  9. Undercarriage has more corrosion than I’d like but its not bad. I will definitely apply Fluid Film to a number of areas.
  10. All fluid levels look good in color and level.
  11. Brake fluid color: a little bit brown but it’s fine.
  12. Radiator fluid: level and color inside radiator is good and plastic-to-metal seams are not leaking
  13. Trans fluid looks good, will use ATF+4 at next change
  14. No oil leaks.
  15. Will monitor oil levels over next 100-1000 miles
  16. I’ll use 10w-30 at next and subsequent oil changes
  17. All previous repair tickets looked at.
  18. Space saver spare tire found (pretty silly design being under the car and lowered by a crank.)
  19. Headliner fabric is not separating or drooping but it is pretty bouncy.
  20. Battery dated 11/21. Will look to replace when 3 years old.
  21. Will bring it to my mechanic (Tuesday) for a brief look-see.
Road Ripper - Very interesting
”the PCV valve will blow used oil into the intake plenum via an upside-down U-shaped hose on the top of the plenum going to behind it (rear valve cover). It will dump oil into the intake and make it gummy. I found standing oil in mine when I removed it (the plenum) to change the spark plugs. You could make a catch can to keep the oil out of the intake, or run it into a small vented bottle and plug the hole in the upper plenum where the hose connects. When it stops putting oil into the small bottle, then it can be hooked back up like stock.”
 

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I fully agree with most of what you said Road Ripper. (y) I usually do. :)

Change the fluid and filter early, like at 60,000 miles, install a new transmission pan with a drain plug so the fluid can be changed whenever, maybe every oil change for the next 2 or 3 oil changes to get near 100% replacement. Otherwise, 60,000 miles is a healthy target, anything over 100,000 miles may be stretching it. A shuddering at low speeds will let one know that the frictional components have been sorely depleted. That's likely to happen much sooner than 120,000 miles.
How tight are the quality control inspections for ATF+4 these days, with new transmission fluids being introduced, one might ask? No audits = not much quality control.

A couple of things to keep in mind from the Center for Quality Assurance site re ATF+4:
My mechanic didn’t use ATF+4® when changing my transmission fluid. What should I do?
Do not mix ATF+4® with non-licensed automatic transmission fluid (ATF). To ensure you have removed most or all of the existing ATF in your transmission, it is recommended that you perform a total of three (3) fluid changes using ATF+4®.
Is ATF+4® synthetic?
Yes, ATF+4 is considered a synthetic material. However, use of the term “synthetic” in the lubricant industry is variable. Advanced technologies in refining, such as hydrocracking, have made it possible to refine mineral oils to such a point that they are technically regarded as synthetic oils and may legally be marketed as such. Therefore, lubricant marketers may use the word “synthetic” when the base lubricant is derived from 100% highly refined mineral oil, 100% man-made material, or a combination of the two.
Bottom line, a question: What have you got against drain plugs Chrysler?
 

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I think the drain plug thing was avoiding confusion, where people drain the wrong thing and overfill something else? Maybe I'm watching too many of those "mechanical nightmares" on youtube again. :LOL:
 

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A little dry rot on the tires (factory original) but not bad at all (garaged) and good tread
If you want to avoid a big headache, get new tires before your road trip. You'll have to get tires soon anyway, so you won't save much if anything by keeping them.

16+ year old tires should not be considered safe, esp. for long road trip with your family.

If you keep those original tires, have the funds on hand and time to get tires along the way and do it the second you feel any suspicious vibration from the wheels (a blowout is not a good thing)
 

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Totally agree with atoman here. Trying to save a few bucks by driving around on old tires that are starting to dry rot is false economy. They might be OK for low speed around town use but I would not take them on the road. 16 year old tires are simply not safe for the highway. An old radiator hose might leave you stranded on the side of the road. Driving on old tires can have significantly more serious consequences.
 
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