The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
youtube.com/sideburns2009
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Back a few months ago I tuned up my '97 with new plugs and wires. Plugs were OEM champion double plats and the wires were borg-warner selects(wires i've had very good experiences with). I left the van running and popped the hood, (no under the hood lights) so it was pitch black. I revved it up a bit from under the hood and saw blue arcs from 2 of the 3 plug wires on cylinders 2,4,and 6. WTF? Yes one of them was touching the compressor and one was touching the metal plate where the hood latch is(the aftermarkets were alittle longer than OEM) and they were arcing. I moved them around so they wouldn't be touching anything metal and it quit arcing but new wires shouldn't arc through the silicone jacket anyway should they? Should I take them off and exchange them (they have a lifetime warranty)? Did I just get a bad set?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
You answered your own question,they have a lifetime warranty,pull em off and get another set!
 

·
youtube.com/sideburns2009
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You answered your own question,they have a lifetime warranty,pull em off and get another set!
I was afraid of that. I DREAD removing the rear wires again. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,149 Posts
Even brand new wires will arc if they're touching something. There's nothing wrong with them, if you get a new set and do it again, they'll most likely still arc.

Your best bet is to get some wire looms and use them. Also, you could try dielectric on either end of the plug wires, for less contact resistance, and put jacketing over the areas that are still close to touching, or that you think might touch.
 

·
youtube.com/sideburns2009
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Even brand new wires will arc if they're touching something. There's nothing wrong with them, if you get a new set and do it again, they'll most likely still arc.
See I was wondering about that. I thought the only time wires arced was when they were dryrotted and splitting. These came with "heatshields"(plastic covers) for the rear but not for the front. I wonder if i should get some for the front wires as well. The wires on my oldsmobile ran across the intake manifold and directly touched it(by design of GM and the 3100) and they never arced. I may just get some new ones. :nut: I've never had this happen before, as far as I've seen. I just thought they weren't suppose to touch each other, hence the plastic seperator clips.
 

·
youtube.com/sideburns2009
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Frankly I would stick with OEM Mopar wires.Heck,if they can last 80K,100K miles,they cant be total crap!
My originals didn't last that long. I replaced the Blue Belden's that were on there with the Borg-Warners. One of the boots on the belden's was cracked and arcing on the exhaust manifold. They were crap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
140 Posts
Question,how do you keep the wires from touching anything?
Second question , why does everyone always say to check your engine in the dark to see if the wires are arcing,and if they are to replace them? This would be a useless test if all wires arc! Help me out and explain it so i have the correct info and supporting information as i dont know much about it.Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,149 Posts
You can try the new ones, but they're probably still going to do the same thing... I've had lots of wires do it.

Best things to do are pretty much what I stated above, and try to isolate them from grounding on anything. Ignition voltage typically exceeds 20kV.. if there's a good path, it's going to take it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,149 Posts
1 - you can route them in ways so they don't touch anything

2 - if they're arcing bad enough, you should replace them. Lots of wires will do it right out of the box though, although I might be missing the severity of this particular issue.

I should say that it's OK if it's only an occasional arc... not every revolution and constantly on the same wire(s).
 

·
youtube.com/sideburns2009
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Question,how do you keep the wires from touching anything?
Second question , why does everyone always say to check your engine in the dark to see if the wires are arcing,and if they are to replace them? This would be a useless test if all wires arc! Help me out and explain it so i have the correct info and supporting information as i dont know much about it.Thanks
Well the wires are a little longer than OEM's as with most aftermarkets, so the "loop" or curve in the 2 wires had one of them touching a metal hose on the compressor and one touching right behind the hood latch, above the radiator. I pulled the wires through the plastic clip closer to the coil pack so they wouldn't touch anything. I still think they shouldn't arc. I'm getting mixed answers so I'm lost.

PS. the same 2 were arcing constantly every revolution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,149 Posts
If it's a constant arc, like you say, then take them back and get new ones. If you still have your old wires, install those two back on, and see if it's still doing it.

They shouldn't arc constantly, but they WILL arc once in awhile if they're close enough to something. It's just going to happen.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
398 Posts
I used Bosche wires on mine. I haven't seen any arking but they are not touching anything either. They fit perfectly.

To change the rear wires/plugs just take off the top alternator braket and remove the wiper assembly. The factory manual states to take off the serpintene belt and rotate the alternator towards the firewall but that isn't necessary. The wipre assembly comes off very easily and then you can just reach back over the plenum and reach the plugs/wires. It only takes about 5 minutes to take off the wiper assembly. I struggled changing them from underneath twice (cussing and cutting up my hands and arms) before I took others advice and also finelyread the procedure in the manual that the factory recomends of taking the wiprer assembly off.
 

·
youtube.com/sideburns2009
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I used Bosche wires on mine. I haven't seen any arking but they are not touching anything either. They fit perfectly.

To change the rear wires/plugs just take off the top alternator braket and remove the wiper assembly. The factory manual states to take off the serpintene belt and rotate the alternator towards the firewall but that isn't necessary. The wipre assembly comes off very easily and then you can just reach back over the plenum and reach the plugs/wires. It only takes about 5 minutes to take off the wiper assembly. I struggled changing them from underneath twice (cussing and cutting up my hands and arms) before I took others advice and also finelyread the procedure in the manual that the factory recomends of taking the wiprer assembly off.
I made it easy on myself, I took of the intake plenum and the wiper cowl. The intake was easy and I had all the room in the world. I just don't have time right now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,508 Posts
Were the wires you installed 7mm, 8mm or 9mm?
Were the "cores" spiral wire, or carbon cloth (you can tell at the connectors if the box doesn't say anything)?


The 7mm will arc easier than the 8mm or 9mm. The carbon will arc easier and harden (and crack) over time, whereas the "spiral wire core" will not arc as easily.

Looms are always a great idea. Think of the high tension power lines, the insulators and the spacing they have to keep them from arcing. Your goal is similar with the looms. The rear ones usually have a "plastic sheathing" slipped over them to keep them bundled, as well as to guide them past metal objects to the back plugs (adding more insulation around them).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
991 Posts
Even brand new wires will arc if they're touching something. There's nothing wrong with them, if you get a new set and do it again, they'll most likely still arc.

Your best bet is to get some wire looms and use them. Also, you could try dielectric on either end of the plug wires, for less contact resistance, and put jacketing over the areas that are still close to touching, or that you think might touch.
Even in the OLD days I NEVER saw new wires arc unless they were junk. New wires **** OLD wires should NEVER arc. If they do they're s&^t. Period. There is no way to route every wire to not touch something. OP get a better set. I have had troubles with the BW wires. Get an OEM set and put them in the proper looms and kiss the arcing goodbye
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,508 Posts
Even in the OLD days I NEVER saw new wires arc unless they were junk. New wires **** OLD wires should NEVER arc. If they do they're s&^t. Period. There is no way to route every wire to not touch something. OP get a better set. I have had troubles with the BW wires. Get an OEM set and put them in the proper looms and kiss the arcing goodbye
x2 what Underthehood says ! :thumb:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
565 Posts
x2 what Underthehood says ! :thumb:
And I will X3 that as well :thumb:

The only time I have seen a wire arc is when it was cracked and no good. None of my 3 cars have wires that arc, and the van's are pretty old. I'm going to replace them for safe keepings in the next few weeks.
 

·
youtube.com/sideburns2009
Joined
·
2,926 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Were the wires you installed 7mm, 8mm or 9mm?
Were the "cores" spiral wire, or carbon cloth (you can tell at the connectors if the box doesn't say anything)?


The 7mm will arc easier than the 8mm or 9mm. The carbon will arc easier and harden (and crack) over time, whereas the "spiral wire core" will not arc as easily.

Looms are always a great idea. Think of the high tension power lines, the insulators and the spacing they have to keep them from arcing. Your goal is similar with the looms. The rear ones usually have a "plastic sheathing" slipped over them to keep them bundled, as well as to guide them past metal objects to the back plugs (adding more insulation around them).
They are 7MM
Tempered stainless steel-wound magnetic conductors provide high conductivity and outstanding RFI suppression.
Super-tough super-mag core, made from Kevlan® and glass fibre braid, resist strain and stress. And extra-thick silicone wire jackets resist the significantly higher operating temperatures in today's engines.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,659 Posts
My $0.02:

New wires should not arc, even if they are touching something. The rubbery stuff on the outside is called an insulator. If it's arcing, it's a bad wire.

Dielectric grease is not going to provide better conductivity. What it does is provide a longer service life to that connection by preventing corrosion or contaminant build-up at the point of contact. Dielectrics, by definition, are non-conductive.
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
Top