[Bpatey]

Same exact issue with my 2010 4.0...any updates?? I AM STUMPED!!

 

[2010 T&C Ian]

Same situation here. 2010 4.0 Town &. Country no heat at idle front or back, heat while driving. In new england in dead of winter. Outlet hoses from front and back cores are cold to the touch while at idle. Will plan to flush both but seems weird that they would both clog at the same time. Were you able to figure it out? Am planning to start with an entire cooling system flush.

 

[Bpatey]

Same situation here. 2010 4.0 Town &. Country no heat at idle front or back, heat while driving. In new england in dead of winter. Outlet hoses from front and back cores are cold to the touch while at idle. Will plan to flush both but seems weird that they would both clog at the same time. Were you able to figure it out? Am planning to start with an entire cooling system flush.

Just finished installing a new tstat (though I knew it probably wouldn't make a difference), removed driver and passenger acuator to confirm they were working and also manually adjusted the blend doors...all working fine. Absolutely no heat in the back but fan working fine. About to burn it lol.

 

[AJE]

Just because the water is flowing in and out of the heater core doesn't mean it isn't plugged up. The coolant needs to spread through the heat exchanger and not just flow in and back out. I'm guessing you need a new heater core.

 

[Bpatey]

Interesting...I never really thought about it that way. I thought of the heater core being more like a hose instead of just a large open cavity inside? My next step was to do a back flush on the core at some point. According to what you are saying, seeing water pass back through it may not mean anything? More confused than ever now lol

 

[AJE]

It's a smaller radiator, which has several tiny channels the coolant flows through to radiate the heat into the passing air. If several of those tiny channels are plugged up, the flow of coolant may follow one path through the core and the heat wouldn't be be drawn from the coolant. The coolant could flow through one path and right back out, which wouldn't let the heat get to your HVAC system.

 

[2010 T&C Ian]

2010 v4 town and country. uggg! I spent 3 days replacing the water pump and timing belt outside in winter conditions, thinking it was a failing water pump. still no heat after all that. disconnected both heater cores at the bottom leg of the "Y" and flushed both cores by pinching off each run while flushing. Both heater cores flushed fine. Brought car to two separate mechanics, one that used to work at local Chrysler dealer. Both couldn't figure out why no heat. The only thing he said was perhaps the clog is south of the return "y" where it enters the metal pipe returning to the pump. I'm going to try and disconnect the return "Y" and see if coolant backflows from out of the pipe running from pump. After disconnecting it he said maybe turn the car on see if pressure blows crap out of pipe...

 

[Special Edy]

There is a bleeder valve near the thermostat, but on the backside of the lower intake manifold where the heater line comes out, for burping air out of the system.

There shouldn't be anything steel in the lines that could rust, everything is plastic or aluminum, including the water pump impeller. You could try reverse flushing the heater cores with a garden hose. Otherwise, I'd suspect a faulty thermostat that is partially open. You could read the real time data off of the OBDII port and see if the coolant temperature is too low, or feel the upper radiator hose to see if it's warm to the touch as the van is warming up.

 

[Bpatey]

I finally have heat!! Disconnected both front heater core lines and put compressed air to them back and forth, back and forth maybe a dozen times. I collected what came out with an old windshield washer fluid bottle. It was not a lot of debris but some. Hooked everything back up and let it run for about an hour with the pictured funnel hooked up and voila!. Still no heat out of the back but I will venture that another day lol.

 

[vanmanstan]

I gave up too. But I've picked it back up and am replacing the heater core itself. HOPE that gets my heat back! It's darn cold out here in the NorthEast!

 

[Bpatey]

Have you tried air and water through your heater core? You wouldn't believe how small the particles were that came out of mine causing me not to have heat!! I would guess 1/4 the size of a grain of rice. Unless you knew it was leaking I wouldn't be resorting to replacing the core just yet!!

 

[vanmanstan]

Well I already bought and have the new one, and the old one almost removed (it's stuck for some reason). I'm wondering if the blend door fell off and is wedged in there!

 

[Bob Lins]

Friends, I'm desperate, I can't figure this out.

I have a 2010 T&C Limited with 4.0L and 3-zone ATC.

The car has little to no heat.

What I have done so far:
1) Topped off coolant, it's full
2) Replaced thermostat, original was fine.
3) Replaced cabin air filter (was very dirty). No difference.
4) Pulled apart dash and checked all blend door servos; all working.
5) Held the AUTO/SYNC button on the ATC to calibrate doors, no errors I can hear all front and rear servos cycle.
6) Pulled lines to heater core and reverse flushed them, some minor junk came out (coolant does have rusty color). Core runs freely. Inlet gets very hot, outlet still stays cold.

None of this has worked, still have no heat.

At idle, van blows cold air.
Revving the engine produces some heat, barely.
Driver's side in center console upper vents is warmish, passenger side is cold, never gets warm even on engine rev.

I have noticed that the A/C compressor clutch cycles on and off while idling - that's odd since it's 20 degrees outside here.

Bottom line, I'm out of ideas, and it's very cold here in the Northeast.

Any ideas? There is so little information on troubleshooting 4.0L vans. I've been all over many forums and YouTube with no luck.

Thank you!

Hi I have talked to a Chrysler mechanic and he said the oil cooler has been a problem try bypassing it mine is doing the same thing going to check out the cooler 😊

 

[Bpatey]

What does an oil cooler have to do with the HVAC system?

 

[Bpatey]

What does an oil cooler have to do with the HVAC system?

I had all the same symptoms...it took reverse flushing WITH COMPRESSED AIR several times and 45 mins of idling with one of these funnels but now I have heat

 

[Mkchrysler]

I had all the same symptoms...it took reverse flushing WITH COMPRESSED AIR several times and 45 mins of idling with one of these funnels but now I have heat

Hi, did you ever fix the rear heating issue?
I am experiencing the same issues as you were or still are... let me know.

Thanks!

 

[Mkchrysler]

Friends, I'm desperate, I can't figure this out.

I have a 2010 T&C Limited with 4.0L and 3-zone ATC.

The car has little to no heat.

What I have done so far:
1) Topped off coolant, it's full
2) Replaced thermostat, original was fine.
3) Replaced cabin air filter (was very dirty). No difference.
4) Pulled apart dash and checked all blend door servos; all working.
5) Held the AUTO/SYNC button on the ATC to calibrate doors, no errors I can hear all front and rear servos cycle.
6) Pulled lines to heater core and reverse flushed them, some minor junk came out (coolant does have rusty color). Core runs freely. Inlet gets very hot, outlet still stays cold.

None of this has worked, still have no heat.

At idle, van blows cold air.
Revving the engine produces some heat, barely.
Driver's side in center console upper vents is warmish, passenger side is cold, never gets warm even on engine rev.

I have noticed that the A/C compressor clutch cycles on and off while idling - that's odd since it's 20 degrees outside here.

Bottom line, I'm out of ideas, and it's very cold here in the Northeast.

Any ideas? There is so little information on troubleshooting 4.0L vans. I've been all over many forums and YouTube with no luck.

Thank you!

Hi,

Did you end up fixing the problem?

 

[Sienile]

He answered that in his last post. Read, people!

 

[Mkchrysler]

.

 

[Mkchrysler]

Hi,

Did you end up fixing the rear heating problem?