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Hey guys, my wife went to crank up our 2007 T and C 3.3 and no reverse. Dropped pan new trans fluid new filter, not to rough one chunk of metal but really smells burnt. All 4 to the front are good but reverse is no response. I am not the smartest but I take instructions well. Where do I start?
 

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2005 Town & Country base 3.3L
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Start being very aware of where you park, always where you can pull out going forward, or up hill is fine too. I lost reverse in an Oldsmobile, drove it like that for a year.
 

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I can't be of much help, but did read of a couple people having the same issue. One guy had a bad transmission range sensor. Other guy had internal problems and got a full rebuild. Rectangle Font Motor vehicle Parallel Auto part
 

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Am I correct in that it was working fine and one day it just stopped working?

1st thing, and I believe you already addressed it by the statement that you did fluid/filter change... Fluid level.
Presuming that the fluid level is to the full mark (and not over filled)

*Did you do the fluid and filter before or after it stopped going into reverse?

If you look at the picture posted by Jaded, note the solenoid pack. Just below that are four threaded plugs. If you get the adapter and can connect a pressure gauge, with the front wheels jacked off the ground... each of those ports are diagnostic pressure for each of the functions. A skilled man with the tools and the guide can determine what is *(likely) going on inside the transmission.

This is an overview video: though not specific to your vehicle.





My 2002 T&C w/3.8 transmission is called a 41TE transmission (4 speed)
Your transmission may be a 62TE (6 speed)

See if you can determine which transmission you have and then look for the troubleshoot guide. In the fault observed guide (no reverse) they will give a few different possibilities and then you can cherry pick diagnostic steps to narrow down you course of action.

Please let us know what you find and what you end up doing.
I saw that you were doing research trying to find answers.

Let me ask, how many things did you read and then only to find no conclusion or answers?
Many times someone asks for help, gets the answer they need and never returns to tell what worked and what did not.
ALL OF THOSE "no conclusion" threads should probably be deleted as they offer no answers...

Good luck and educate us on how to fix your NO REVERSE fault

Mark O, Welcome to Mopar Minivan Garage !
 

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If you have an OBDII reader, they don't read transmission codes.

With someone putting the van into reverse, with foot brake and parking brake on, see if the shifter cable is moving as it should. You might even try to give it a little help.

Also, as was said, your reverse solenoid may be bad.

Finally, check fluid level.
Great point MarvinStockman,

Yes, maybe the cable sleeve is loose and not fully going into the reverse position where the drive position there are three slots to hit that will make it go forward as opposed to just the one position for reverse...
 
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This should be a 41TE. The 62TE didn’t go into minivans (other than Pacifica) until 2008.

This transmission has reverse and 2nd completely manual. With the connector disconnected from the solenoid you’ll have those gears — that’s basically what limp-in mode is. There is a low/reverse solenoid, but it actually applies above 8mph to prevent shifting into reverse. No solenoid is applied in normal reverse.

If the L/R solenoid was stuck on you might not have reverse, but you’d have other problems in forward gears.

This just about has to be an internal problem. I can post hydraulic diagrams if needed. It might be worth disconnecting the solenoid connector to see what happens, though.
 

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2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 2013 Chrysler T & C and a few more
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To follow up on FabricGator's post #9. Two years ago our old 2005 winter beater began to act up and not select the gears correctly because the shifter cable and sleeve definitely had a tight spot. I liberally applied penetrating lubricant down the cable from the top end near the steering wheel and exercised the selector to assist the lubricant to work its way down the inside of the sleeve. The vertical selector shaft on the transmission was also binding because of rust. I cleaned it up and gave it a good oiling (below). Gears have worked slick since!
Rusty.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Military camouflage Camouflage Automotive wheel system
 

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Am I correct in that it was working fine and one day it just stopped working?

1st thing, and I believe you already addressed it by the statement that you did fluid/filter change... Fluid level.
Presuming that the fluid level is to the full mark (and not over filled)

*Did you do the fluid and filter before or after it stopped going into reverse?

If you look at the picture posted by Jaded, note the solenoid pack. Just below that are four threaded plugs. If you get the adapter and can connect a pressure gauge, with the front wheels jacked off the ground... each of those ports are diagnostic pressure for each of the functions. A skilled man with the tools and the guide can determine what is *(likely) going on inside the transmission.

This is an overview video: though not specific to your vehicle.





My 2002 T&C w/3.8 transmission is called a 41TE transmission (4 speed)
Your transmission may be a 62TE (6 speed)

See if you can determine which transmission you have and then look for the troubleshoot guide. In the fault observed guide (no reverse) they will give a few different possibilities and then you can cherry pick diagnostic steps to narrow down you course of action.

Please let us know what you find and what you end up doing.
I saw that you were doing research trying to find answers.

Let me ask, how many things did you read and then only to find no conclusion or answers?
Many times someone asks for help, gets the answer they need and never returns to tell what worked and what did not.
ALL OF THOSE "no conclusion" threads should probably be deleted as they offer no answers...

Good luck and educate us on how to fix your NO REVERSE fault

Mark O, Welcome to Mopar Minivan Garage !
I wouldnt go that far deleting a post, how about deleting comments that offer no help on the topic. It can be frustrating.
There are small snippets of hope some throw out that lead to the fix or down that path.
That is better than nothing. Or comments on things NOT to do heading to the solution.
 

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Hey guys, my wife went to crank up our 2007 T and C 3.3 and no reverse. Dropped pan new trans fluid new filter, not to rough one chunk of metal but really smells burnt. All 4 to the front are good but reverse is no response. I am not the smartest but I take instructions well. Where do I start?
Hello friend, I am sorry to hear about your trouble. I am also sure everyone on here wants to help,, and will give you their opinions of what it may be, some will mention a vehicle and story that has nothing to do with your scenario. However, when it comes to this transmission, your best option is to have it analyze by a reputable tranny shop.

From experience, when I have replaced filter and fluid, the result is a No drive is either gears. This is bcuz the asbestos clutch material on the clutch plates wears off some, and flows with the fluid. You can find it on the bottom of pan when you drop it. You can also find chips of metal. In fact, if you run a small magnet thru the pans floor, you will see hair-like strips of metal attached.

What did I discover the times I did this? Well, if the fluid was robust coffee, and I found that wet sut asbestos material in pan, it told me that if I cleaned it all out, and put new filter and fluid, the fluid would no longer contain the asbestos material which was keeping the clutch plates making contact, thereby allowing the function of the tranny. Of course this for me was back in the 80s with a 1977 Chrysler Cordova which had a 400 engine and a 727 torqflite-8 tranny. So, I just went to junkyard and picked up a working used one, slap it up and go.
Also, I recently got out of a 2005 Town and country LX, on 8/13/22 and 6mo before this, I had tranny trouble, where the drive differential got destroyed badly. So, since I needed our van to run till I found a newer used one,, I put up a rebuilt costing $1,800. That van was taken by the dealership as a $700 trade in towards my newer 2015 T&C touring with 64k. Point here is, if you NEED YOUR van,, and want to keep it running, (if body is in good condition, no rust), then don't tinker with it, just replace tranny, bcuz if you replace the van, unless it has about 64k, that one too may be nearing tranny trouble if its into the 155k miles. Good luck.
 

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... for me was back in the 80s with a 1977 Chrysler Cordova which had a 400 engine and a 727 torqflite-8 tranny.
I had a Chrysler Cordova... "With crushed Corinthian leather and priced that was just so affordable"


That car was much better than my Monte Bondo.... I wish I had them both today (in restored condition)
 

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I had a Chrysler Cordova... "With crushed Corinthian leather and priced that was just so affordable"


That car was much better than my Monte Bondo.... I wish I had them both today (in restored condition)
Correction, my mistake, I didn't pick one up at junkyard. I was actually in that year 1987, finishing up at the college of automotive in Manhattan NY, and I now Remember I had done the transmission class, which in fact made me cry at night, bcuz it was very complex to me. But the teacher inspired me to buy the rebuild kit and do the job, since I now had the knowledge. And so I did. Dropped it, carried it up to my room and did the surgery. Was surprised it worked, lol. That Cordoba's ride was smoother than a Cadillac ride.
 
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