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Oil Cooler Replaced. Thoughts on Failures.

1902 Views 30 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  goaliemo
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Background: 2013 T&C Limited, purchased with 135k miles, replaced spark plugs, basic maintenance and proceeded to drive it 25k miles in one year. At around 150k I bought the replacement cooler as i had planned to replace it at some point soon but that never happened up until yesterday when I checked under the hood and noticed the transmission being wet with oil. Dip stick was 1/2 up the "SAFE" zone.

Decided it was time, gathered a few tools and got working, about 20min later I had the old cooler in my hand looking at what happened.

This is now my third oil cooler replacement and every failure is always rubber o rings that flatten and harden against the aluminum. Its always the oil port on the right side, closest to the sensors on the cooler body. Every time!
Have not seen cracked or bad housing yet. I suspect this repair can be done within ~15$ of OEM or Mahle gaskets.
The cracked housings I think were due to some oil shops attempting to actually torque the cap onto the filter body. Reality is with this design all you have to do is turn the cap until it makes contact with the body. The O ring will seal the cap and torque is not required.

Here is my old housing, perfect as can be.

From start to this, 15min.
Automotive air manifold Motor vehicle Vehicle Engineering Auto part


Clean up and new cooler installed. ~15min.
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Upon Re-Install I ended up replacing the lower manifold with the PUG one. This took maybe another 15min as I had to remove the injectors and fuel rail and clean and lubricate the seals.
Automotive air manifold Motor vehicle Vehicle Car Automotive fuel system


Re-assembly was also quick another 10min, all and all I started at 2:30pm and had the engine fired up at 3:30pm. 1hr not 6, not 7, 1hr. I used a 8mm, 10mm,13mm and E8 for the bolts on the cooler. I also used a set of pliers, a pick and clip remover tool.

For those that pay 6-800$, think about this for a moment and realize how much money you are wasting.
In todays days of high interest rates, exenses going up on a monthly basis, I am no mechanic and I was able to replace this part myself, you should be too! Youtube is flooded with videos on how to make this part swap.



BTW: The lower intake manifold does provide a healthy gain in torque especialy from 2-3k RPM range. Next up is the 8 hole injectors from the PUG to see if we can improve fuel economy.
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PUG = Pentastar Ugly G????

what am I missing?

Nice write up. I think I am going to get an aluminum housing for mine to have it ready when the leak starts. I do appreciate your info about the three you have changed being the o-rings and not a cracked housing. I just don’t like plastic parts on an engine.
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PUG = Pentastar Ugly G????

what am I missing?

Nice write up. I think I am going to get an aluminum housing for mine to have it ready when the leak starts. I do appreciate your info about the three you have changed being the o-rings and not a cracked housing. I just don’t like plastic parts on an engine.
They call PUG the Pentastar Up-Grade... To me it's Pentastar GEN 2, apparently after GEN 2 there is a GEN 3 with VVT and Variable Valve Lift, so the cams get complicated. But the design of the lower manifold must have been a nice easy place to improve so the new part did have some impressive ports that were much bigger, and smoother, I am thinking that runner starting a little bigger up top and smoothly narrowing down slightly at the bottom must accelerate the air entering the engine, but the results I'm feeling are not placebo effects, it may make the same power as before but in the early RPMs there is certainly more thurst so if you can score one for 50-80$ I would say its worth the upgrade. At 200+$ To me it's not worth the upgrade.
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is this the part number? 5281803AA , at Summit for about $161
is this the part number? 5281803AA , at Summit for about $161
That is correct, it was 80$ on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B1DC6TKQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

The one above is sold out but I found another seller that has them.
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Lol, "unavailable" and the kicker "does not fit your RAM C/V" of course I know it does, but I run into this all the time.
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They call PUG the Pentastar Up-Grade... To me it's Pentastar GEN 2, apparently after GEN 2 there is a GEN 3 with VVT and Variable Valve Lift, so the cams get complicated. ...
PUG is Gen 3. Gen 1 is '11-'13. Gen 2 is '14+ (without VVL). Gen 3 is '17+ with VVL.

The PUG manifold removes the massive injector hump that restricts flow. It makes a good bit of difference in responsiveness. You'll really notice the improvements with a tune.
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PUG is Gen 3. Gen 1 is '11-'13. Gen 2 is '14+ (without VVL). Gen 3 is '17+ with VVL.

The PUG manifold removes the massive injector hump that restricts flow. It makes a good bit of difference in responsiveness. You'll really notice the improvements with a tune.
How can you tell if the engine has the VVL?
Nice write up and thanks for sharing that it is the gaskets that are failing mostly. Mine is still bone dry at 80k miles, because I'm the only one that ever did oil changes on it, and I never torque the oil filter cap. But I'm thinking if it's not a bad idea to change the gaskets when I do the plugs at 100k.
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How can you tell if the engine has the VVL?
If it's not in a Grand Caravan.
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How can you tell if the engine has the VVL?
If you see an EGR, that's a PUG. If at a junkyard and the intake is missing, open the valve cover. If the intake cam's valves make you raise an eyebrow, that's a PUG.

If it's not in a Grand Caravan.
Or Charger, Challenger, Avenger... Several of the cars never got the gen 3.
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Nice write up and thanks for sharing that it is the gaskets that are failing mostly. Mine is still bone dry at 80k miles, because I'm the only one that ever did oil changes on it, and I never torque the oil filter cap. But I'm thinking if it's not a bad idea to change the gaskets when I do the plugs at 100k.
So given that the MOPAR OEM O-rings don't last, I guess try Felpro or Mahle and hope for the best. I would almost add this as a routine maintenance item, change the seals every time you change the spark plugs.
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That'd be a good idea. I typically see cooler leaks at around 120k, so doing them every 100k with the plugs should dodge most of the failures. Probably all of them if using a metal cooler.
That'd be a good idea. I typically see cooler leaks at around 120k, so doing them every 100k with the plugs should dodge most of the failures. Probably all of them if using a metal cooler.
Going with aluminum unit is probably not a bad idea if you let shops do the oil changes, as most of them will over-torque the filter cap, just like in most cases. For i DYI-er OEM unit should be fine IMO.
The oil filter cover has to be tightened down enough that the contact surfaces (filter to cap - top and filter to housing - bottom) seal against an oil bypass situation. I think 15 to 16 ft. lbs. should do it. That's what I use anyway. A little shy of 18 ft. lbs. I do get a slight twist in the filter body, that is evident on removal. That's a good indication that it is tight when in place..

The filter body can vary in length by +/- about 1/16" so some may need the full 18 ft. lbs. Some filters, like the FRAM ULTRA XG 11665, have a rotating center core to facilitate tightening and to strengthen the filter (more interior support).

Filter Lengths:

The filter twist due to tightening:


The various parts to the oil filter cover, including a bypass valve (2014 - 2020 MYs)

Add this filter to your cart. Clean it but never replace it. :)
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Interesting to read this thread- this is a direct quote from Chrysler on this repair. they are noting the O-Ring issue too. "Replace only the oil inlet O-ring and gaskets. 3) Re-install the OFA " We have 5 3.6 liters in our family and only 1 so far ( 2014 @ 17K miles) has needed the oil filer housing replaced knock on wood. Mileage between 72K and 175K on these respectively currently.
My 2014 failed at 27k miles. Nowhere near any oil change either, that was months previous. That one was fixed under warranty.
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My 2014 failed at 27k miles. Nowhere near any oil change either, that was months previous. That one was fixed under warranty.
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Coka Coola antifreeze? :p
I thought the techs statement was interesting. Sounded like they had never run across this issue before, which is hard to believe knowing what I know now.
He was probably surprised it happened at such a low mileage.
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