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Here's what an oil filter cover looks like when dissected.
SKP SK917190 {68191350AA}
It mates with this shape Pentastar engine oil filter.
Turn that filter upside down though as the pointy part goes to the bottom in the housing.
![Rectangle Gas Cylinder Font Fluid]()
The three main pieces:
the cover proper
an insert containing a small spring loaded bypass valve.
a larger spring acting as a retainer and also providing about 1/4 inch of collapsible space.
![Automotive tire Camera lens Camera accessory Violet Lens]()
Inside of gutted cover: The insert snaps into the cover, retaining the spring therein. Notice the 4 tabs, they have grabbers to hold the insert in place, while allowing about 1/4" of room for the spring to compress, to allow for variations in length of filter. The filters do vary in length from brand to brand and even within brands..They end up being compressed in place, many times twisted some, when the cover is torqued to spec.
![Automotive tire Flash photography Gas Rim Automotive wheel system]()
The insert with the spring in place. Notice the cap at the bottom that is the bypass valve that opens and closes as needbe (oil pressure differential). Above that is the groove that a couple of tabs on the filter core snap into when the filter is pushed into cover.
![Camera lens Camera accessory Lens Teleconverter Cameras & optics]()
The spring loaded bypass valve within the insert:
![Camera lens Automotive tire Rim Circle Cameras & optics]()
Retainer spring placement.
![Automotive tire Flash photography Automotive design Rim Motor vehicle]()
That's all there is to it. The filter ends up being clamped between the top circular surface and a similar, I expect, but not spring loaded, bottom surface. The FRAM XG11665 filter (the best of the best)
I use has a core that is free to rotate within the filter itself, which cuts down on binding, I think. The pleats still get twisted a little. I torque to 15 ft. lbs. At that point things are squeaking and grinding a bit. That's CONCERNING! 18 ft. lb is close by but I don't trust the accuracy of the torque wrench that well nor the strength of the fragile housing. Seems to work, no leaks.
This time I snapped the filter into the cap, the previous time I snapped the filter into the base. Either way should work fine as the filter body ends up being clamped in place. Snapping into the base avoids messing around with pulling and pushing on the insert connection within the cover. If it comes apart, it can be put back together though, using some alignment skills. Turning while pushing/pulling makes things easier but do it straight on, no twisting the insert sideways or it may snap out of position. That doesn't mean that it breaks though. as some oil jockey may claim.
SKP SK917190 {68191350AA}
It mates with this shape Pentastar engine oil filter.
Turn that filter upside down though as the pointy part goes to the bottom in the housing.
The three main pieces:
the cover proper
an insert containing a small spring loaded bypass valve.
a larger spring acting as a retainer and also providing about 1/4 inch of collapsible space.
Inside of gutted cover: The insert snaps into the cover, retaining the spring therein. Notice the 4 tabs, they have grabbers to hold the insert in place, while allowing about 1/4" of room for the spring to compress, to allow for variations in length of filter. The filters do vary in length from brand to brand and even within brands..They end up being compressed in place, many times twisted some, when the cover is torqued to spec.
The insert with the spring in place. Notice the cap at the bottom that is the bypass valve that opens and closes as needbe (oil pressure differential). Above that is the groove that a couple of tabs on the filter core snap into when the filter is pushed into cover.
The spring loaded bypass valve within the insert:
Retainer spring placement.
That's all there is to it. The filter ends up being clamped between the top circular surface and a similar, I expect, but not spring loaded, bottom surface. The FRAM XG11665 filter (the best of the best)
I use has a core that is free to rotate within the filter itself, which cuts down on binding, I think. The pleats still get twisted a little. I torque to 15 ft. lbs. At that point things are squeaking and grinding a bit. That's CONCERNING! 18 ft. lb is close by but I don't trust the accuracy of the torque wrench that well nor the strength of the fragile housing. Seems to work, no leaks.This time I snapped the filter into the cap, the previous time I snapped the filter into the base. Either way should work fine as the filter body ends up being clamped in place. Snapping into the base avoids messing around with pulling and pushing on the insert connection within the cover. If it comes apart, it can be put back together though, using some alignment skills. Turning while pushing/pulling makes things easier but do it straight on, no twisting the insert sideways or it may snap out of position. That doesn't mean that it breaks though. as some oil jockey may claim.
