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I filled it with Mobil 1 synthetic oil about 1000 miles ago. The light has been coming on intermittently the past couple of weeks. I checked it it wasn't all that low, but I added more. Light still keeps coming on once in a while. Today it came on at start, drove it for an hour. Started it back up and the light was gone. WTF? I know the oil level is fine, what can be triggering it?
 

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I filled it with Mobil 1 synthetic oil about 1000 miles ago. The light has been coming on intermittently the past couple of weeks. I checked it it wasn't all that low, but I added more. Light still keeps coming on once in a while. Today it came on at start, drove it for an hour. Started it back up and the light was gone. WTF? I know the oil level is fine, what can be triggering it?
You may have a bad oil pressure sender. There easy to change, its right above the oil filter, in front of the oil filter housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·

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If you went to a much lighter oil, a 0 or 5w whereas you were using heavier before, it could have caused the problem. I say that since you mention it happened after the change. But the sensor will also go bad, mine did, it would sporadically, sometimes yes other times no, just show the pressure dropping while I was driving. Sending unit ended the problem. It is by the filter or on the other side of the engine from the filter, usually.
 

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Likely cause is the sensor or the wiring/connection to the sensor.

If your engine was sludged up some, the synthetic oil (if this was a first time use) could have dislodged a lot of stuff to be caught by your filter. What filter are you using?

Here's how the system works. http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/83-1R2.pdf The pressure sensor is beyond the filter. Might consider changing the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Likely cause is the sensor or the wiring/connection to the sensor.

If your engine was sluged up some the synthetic oil (if this was a first time use) could have dislodged a lot of stuff to be caught by your filter. What filter are you using?

Here's how the system works. http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/83-1R2.pdf The pressure sensor is beyond the filter. Might consider changing the filter.
It was a MOPAR filter.
 

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I would replace the pressure sensor. It is located right above the oil filter. I believe it only cost me between 10 and 20 canadian dollars at the dealership. Replacing it solved my oil light problem. Read your trouble codes, mine set one I forget the code though.
Hank
 

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If you want to be sure, for free, you can likely borrow (pay for and bring back for refund) an oil pressure gauge at Autozone or other parts house. Remove your unit, put it in and run the engine to see what the pressure it. One caution, some of these units are an aluminum housing and wring off in the hole if you overtighten. The last ones I did are a taper fit pipe fitting so they gradually get less thread and tighten on themselves. Not sure on the Chrysler. Did that on my Simca. You can rent a sending unit removal socket at the same store. Might as well buy the unit too, and return it if it is not needed. Hankster and Jeepman have good points. If your new super oil broke loose or dissolved a lot of goop, it could be clogging the oil filter, but if so, do your lifters clatter when the light comes on? If not it may well be the unit (Unless the lifters are now full of junk too).
 

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If you went to a much lighter oil, a 0 or 5w whereas you were using heavier before, it could have caused the problem. I say that since you mention it happened after the change. But the sensor will also go bad, mine did, it would sporadically, sometimes yes other times no, just show the pressure dropping while I was driving. Sending unit ended the problem. It is by the filter or on the other side of the engine from the filter, usually.
The lower number doesn't matter. What matters is the higher number. You can use any oil that has a hot viscosity of 30. Now straight SAE30w will drastically reduce fuel economy when cold, but will be no different when hot.

But yes, the sensor is probably the issue. I've seen one go bad instantly once. I was under the car with the engine running and it had no leaks but suddenly oil came blowing out of it. Although this was on a GM 3.4 engine and those were pretty terrible all around. Seems to happen often on any type of vehicle.
 

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I have had to replace my sending unit on a couple of vehicles. Yes, they can cause the problem you are describing. Yes, they are easy to replace. Also consider getting one of the "big filters", not the little ones. The big ones provide better overall flow, as well as more filtering surface. Just make sure they have the anti-flow back valve in them. SEARCH this forum for "oil filter" and you'll find the recommended models.

Get back to us with your results. :thumb:
 

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Right, I meant w as a symbol for weight, not winter, sorry bout that. If he went to a much lighter oil and his pump is marginal, he could start seeing the light, only mention that because it happened shortly after a change. But sending units can fail catastrophically. Hello AZ Traveler, haven't seen you for a while, or maybe I just didn't notice.
 

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How far does the oil sender screw in?

I replaced the oil switch on my 2001 T&C this past weekend.

I tightened the switch into the hole but the base of the switch is still about a 1/4" from touching the engine. I did not want to tighten any more than I had for for fear of breaking the oil switch fitting.

I don't think that it is cross-threaded because I threaded the switch in easily with a few turns by hand before I had to go to the wrench.

Is this as far as the switch screws in?

Thanks.
 

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I replaced the oil switch on my 2001 T&C this past weekend.

I tightened the switch into the hole but the base of the switch is still about a 1/4" from touching the engine. I did not want to tighten any more than I had for for fear of breaking the oil switch fitting.

I don't think that it is cross-threaded because I threaded the switch in easily with a few turns by hand before I had to go to the wrench.

Is this as far as the switch screws in?

Thanks.
Doesn't really matter. As long as it was not cross threaded and you tightened it against the seat and it doesn't leak it will be fine.
 

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I know this is an ancient thread, but this is the first hit that came up on a quick search. My 01 Sport with a 3.3 is also having the oil flicker, and at 193k miles, it would be expected for it to have problems now.

Has anyone added an extra bleed line upon replacement? Did they have any problems if they did?
If so, what would be the specific part name for the bleed line? I don't want to buy a whole new connector...yet.
 

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I know this is an ancient thread, but this is the first hit that came up on a quick search. My 01 Sport with a 3.3 is also having the oil flicker, and at 193k miles, it would be expected for it to have problems now.

Has anyone added an extra bleed line upon replacement? Did they have any problems if they did?
If so, what would be the specific part name for the bleed line? I don't want to buy a whole new connector...yet.
Have you replaced the oil pressure sender and/or tested the pressure with a mechanical gauge?

Regarding your comment about it being expected for the engine to have some issues by now, I disagree, these engines are typically good for hundreds of thousands of miles with just "normal" maintenance.
 

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What I meant for issues to come at almost 200k miles is for the switch. I know the 3.3 is a very reliable engine. I knew someone years ago with 500k miles on her 3.3 with only having gaskets and belts changed.
The pressure is fine.
 

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Have you replaced the oil pressure sender and/or tested the pressure with a mechanical gauge?

Regarding your comment about it being expected for the engine to have some issues by now, I disagree, these engines are typically good for hundreds of thousands of miles with just "normal" maintenance.

Really? What about the 3.8? :) I'd really, really like to get mine to 250K. Actually I need to...
 

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My 2006 with 3.3 is already over 317,000 miles, 3.8 should last about the same, unless yours is one of the oil drinkers.
I think they are all oil drinkers? If not, I don't know the "secret" to making the van not an oil drinker. Maybe a complete rebuild every 100K miles? Not sure...:confused:
 

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215K miles on our 3.8L and it doesn't use any measureable oil between changes. Insure it isn't leaking out. I had small leaks at both the PCV valve on the rear valve cover and at the gasket. I changed the rear main seal when I replaced the flex-plate. No drips since.

Re the earlier question about how far to screw in the oil pressure sender, I haven't even looked at the one on my 3.8L, but in all other Mopar engines I have, it is a tapered "pipe thread", usually 1/8" NPT. Google that. It starts easy, then get tight as you screw. You need sealant on the threads. If you try to screw it until the body touches, you will likely break it off and have a bigger problem.
 
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