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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I found a very slow oil drip coming from the passenger side, dripping down to the oil pan. First thought is an oil leak from the oil pan. However, I recently placed dye in the engine oil and the oil that’s showing up on the pan does not appear to show up on the UV light. The axle portion nearing the middle/passenger side seems greased with oil. After snapping these photos below, it appears to be the ball joint.

1. Leaning towards a GSP brand for $85 shipped from Amazon. Reman is about $280.

2. could this be a leak from the rack and pinion instead? Feel like it is not as my power steering reservoir does not indicate any lower amount. It’s been consistently the same level. Could this be any other leak?

3.Should I change the suspension while I’m at it? The suspension does run a bit rough on rough roads but not to the point where it’s bottoming out. Car does have about 110k miles now. What suspension would others recommend to have a lot smoother ride?

Any help appreciated. On my fourth leak (Transmission/AC/radiator were leaking), ownership of this van for only 3 months.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Axle contains grease, not oil. That is not the source of your leak. Check the rear valve cover, PCV valve, and valley for oil. Looks like it's coming from the trans side. If you see oil on top of the trans and in the valley, it's the oil cooler and you should not drive this until you get it fixed.
Changed the trans cooler lines a week ago, no leaks on top of trans and no leaks from the cooler itself. I’ll check the passenger side to see if there is any leaks coming from up top.
My radiator was recently leaking and I did pour some coolant into the radiator to refill (and some may have poured out). Maybe this is coolant mixing with old grease or oil. It was a strange green color and it would make sense since the coolant was greenish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry to be off topic, but your sway bar endlink looks like it might be loose and missing the grease zerk. Were you in the middle of working on it?
Thanks for the catch, didn’t even notice! Had them changed about two months ago. Will get under and inspect today
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
In another thread you put dye in the engine oil. That could explain your green tint.

Really every time, but especially after having repaired multiple leaks already, you should start to look for leaks by cleaning the engine first. Much easier to see oil running on clean metal than gooped up dirt.
Good tip on engine cleaning. The green tint shows without UV light. When shining a UV light, it does not shine fluorescent green, so I deduced this may not be engine oil. My first guess was transmission axle seal, but realized the passenger-side seal is pretty far away from the oil pan to be dripping like this. I will inspect the PCV valve today for leaks. I did recently change all the manifold gaskets. I’ll inspect there as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Concur with the others. Clean and re-assess. Doubt it's a leaking CV boot. Couple of thoughts on your other posts, though:



I'd lean away from that. "GSP" and others of that ilk are cheap Chinese knock-offs. Period. There's a reason a Mopar reman axle is 280 and GSP is 85. You get what you pay for.

Same goes for those greaseable end links. Those are aftermarket. A pair of Mopar links can be had for a few extra bucks.



Did you have the cooling system serviced or was the job DIY? The coolant should not be green (or green-ish). Most of the 2014s use purple OAT coolant, which is a 10-year, 150K-mile formula.
I bought the van used and it appears it has universal antifreeze that is greenish in color. The radiator has a leak at the top and recently noticed it when it seeped out after a long drive. I did put a temporary high heat epoxy in where the crack appears and topped off for now. New radiator just came in and will install the new one along with a new Mopar Thermostat tomorrow. I’m also getting a gallon of the Mopar coolant tomorrow.

Short story is the van was abused, on a rebuilt trans, has leaks almost everywhere and needed many repairs. Van rides rough over bumps also so I’ll probably do the suspension when I handle the passenger axle, alignment all the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Axle contains grease, not oil. That is not the source of your leak. Check the rear valve cover, PCV valve, and valley for oil. Looks like it's coming from the trans side. If you see oil on top of the trans and in the valley, it's the oil cooler and you should not drive this until you get it fixed.
I was wrong, the oil dripping from the pan is in fact engine oil as the dye is a whitish neon under the UV light. It’s not white under a regular flash light. Checked the brand of the dye and turns out others show similar color.
So it is engine oil. Here are the pictures I took tonight under the UV
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I sprayed engine cleaner on most of the parts around this area and wiped it down. I’ll see if that area is still leaking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Anyone know what line this is? Its pretty greased up but it may be residue oil when changing the oil filter.
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If I'm too pushy tell me, but it really does look like at a minimum it's missing the grease zerk. Yours looks an awful lot like the Quicksteer brand that comes with uninstalled zerks.

View attachment 64249

View attachment 64250

When installed, the zerk should look like this Moog:

View attachment 64251
Not pushy at all. The first week I got the van, had a shop change all the broken mounts and they found out the sway bar bushings were blown too so they slapped on whatever parts there was. I’m not too concerned since the part should be easy to remove and replace. I did order all the struts and think that’s something needing to be done on this van with 110k miles and what appears to be the original OEM suspension
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Concur with the others. Clean and re-assess. Doubt it's a leaking CV boot. Couple of thoughts on your other posts, though:



I'd lean away from that. "GSP" and others of that ilk are cheap Chinese knock-offs. Period. There's a reason a Mopar reman axle is 280 and GSP is 85. You get what you pay for.

Same goes for those greaseable end links. Those are aftermarket. A pair of Mopar links can be had for a few extra bucks.



Did you have the cooling system serviced or was the job DIY? The coolant should not be green (or green-ish). Most of the 2014s use purple OAT coolant, which is a 10-year, 150K-mile formula.
Turns out the coolant was NOT green. It just looked green under a flashlight in my dark garage. I replaced the radiator at my garage with natural sunlight and the fluid was all orange. The new Mopar purple coolant I installed now shines “orange” under the flashlight in the dark garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
what does dodge stand for? drip oil drips gas everywhere. every dodge i have ever owned leaked brand new from the factory. cause poor machining.
One shining light about this van, however, is the fact that most parts are so darn cheap, including OEM parts. I just bought brand new Monroe front suspension for $125 each shipped, a new radiator for $98 shipped, rear shocks for $28 shipped, rear rotors for $25 shipped, pads for $19. People keep telling me I should buy a Toyota or Honda because they last longer. However, a comparable year, mileage and condition Sienna or Odysessy is about $5-10k more than the van. I’ll take my chances and save the 5-10k for repairs because a Toyota or Honda will likely fail in certain parts as well.

I know this because I had a 2005 Camry with only 57k miles with a serious leaking Rack and Pinion, along with a leaky AC, along with oil seepage from the pan or possibly somewhere else. Didn’t bother since the car’s value was less than the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Oil leaks are sometimes hard to track down. That stuff travels all over the place to find a place to drip from and can be dripping form anywhere and multiple places. In my experience with my 3.3 the valve cover and pan bolts needed to be tightened up at 102k. Gaskets can shrink and get hard over time and need to be snugged up. That took care of drips at that point. So you might want to look at that.
(Leak story, as an aside) About 5 months after the bolt tightening my clock spring went bad. It was a recall deal still so I made an appointment with my local dealer for replacement. When I got the van back the service writer handed me a check-off sheet as they had done an "inspection" on the van "while they were at it". Strangely they noted that I had massive oil leak(s) that would require a goodly amount of money to fix. I ignored them and left. A few days later I noticed that the engine was dripping quite a bit of oil. Weird as I had tightened up the pan bolts, and logged the operation, not to long ago. I swung under the car with a ratchet and checked the bolts. All of them that were easy to get at (all but 4 or so if I remember correctly) were grossly loose. The front valve cover was still tight however. I suspect that the dealership loosened them to drum up some repair business. Moral: Don't take your car to a dealership for repair.
Or maybe they had the most novice mechanic working on your car and they didn’t torque to spec. I’m always hesitant to go to the dealer especially the car is out of warranty, but sometimes they might throw a bone. My passenger front head rest deployed and apparently that is still covered under warranty, dodo ably because of the lawsuits regarding the premature deployment of the headrests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Sorry to be off topic, but your sway bar endlink looks like it might be loose and missing the grease zerk. Were you in the middle of working on it?
looking at the photo again, it appears the zerks are in fact there, and that copper looking thing is the nut that is all greased up due to oil residue. The zerk also appears greased up by the oil residue.
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