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I was wrong, the oil dripping from the pan is in fact engine oil as the dye is a whitish neon under the UV light. It’s not white under a regular flash light. Checked the brand of the dye and turns out others show similar color. So it is engine oil. Here are the pictures I took tonight under the UV I sprayed engine cleaner on most of the parts around this area and wiped it down. I’ll see if that area is still leaking.
Oil leaks are sometimes hard to track down. That stuff travels all over the place to find a place to drip from and can be dripping form anywhere and multiple places. In my experience with my 3.3 the valve cover and pan bolts needed to be tightened up at 102k. Gaskets can shrink and get hard over time and need to be snugged up. That took care of drips at that point. So you might want to look at that.
(Leak story, as an aside) About 5 months after the bolt tightening my clock spring went bad. It was a recall deal still so I made an appointment with my local dealer for replacement. When I got the van back the service writer handed me a check-off sheet as they had done an "inspection" on the van "while they were at it". Strangely they noted that I had massive oil leak(s) that would require a goodly amount of money to fix. I ignored them and left. A few days later I noticed that the engine was dripping quite a bit of oil. Weird as I had tightened up the pan bolts, and logged the operation, not to long ago. I swung under the car with a ratchet and checked the bolts. All of them that were easy to get at (all but 4 or so if I remember correctly) were grossly loose. The front valve cover was still tight however. I suspect that the dealership loosened them to drum up some repair business. Moral: Don't take your car to a dealership for repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
what does dodge stand for? drip oil drips gas everywhere. every dodge i have ever owned leaked brand new from the factory. cause poor machining.
One shining light about this van, however, is the fact that most parts are so darn cheap, including OEM parts. I just bought brand new Monroe front suspension for $125 each shipped, a new radiator for $98 shipped, rear shocks for $28 shipped, rear rotors for $25 shipped, pads for $19. People keep telling me I should buy a Toyota or Honda because they last longer. However, a comparable year, mileage and condition Sienna or Odysessy is about $5-10k more than the van. I’ll take my chances and save the 5-10k for repairs because a Toyota or Honda will likely fail in certain parts as well.

I know this because I had a 2005 Camry with only 57k miles with a serious leaking Rack and Pinion, along with a leaky AC, along with oil seepage from the pan or possibly somewhere else. Didn’t bother since the car’s value was less than the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Oil leaks are sometimes hard to track down. That stuff travels all over the place to find a place to drip from and can be dripping form anywhere and multiple places. In my experience with my 3.3 the valve cover and pan bolts needed to be tightened up at 102k. Gaskets can shrink and get hard over time and need to be snugged up. That took care of drips at that point. So you might want to look at that.
(Leak story, as an aside) About 5 months after the bolt tightening my clock spring went bad. It was a recall deal still so I made an appointment with my local dealer for replacement. When I got the van back the service writer handed me a check-off sheet as they had done an "inspection" on the van "while they were at it". Strangely they noted that I had massive oil leak(s) that would require a goodly amount of money to fix. I ignored them and left. A few days later I noticed that the engine was dripping quite a bit of oil. Weird as I had tightened up the pan bolts, and logged the operation, not to long ago. I swung under the car with a ratchet and checked the bolts. All of them that were easy to get at (all but 4 or so if I remember correctly) were grossly loose. The front valve cover was still tight however. I suspect that the dealership loosened them to drum up some repair business. Moral: Don't take your car to a dealership for repair.
Or maybe they had the most novice mechanic working on your car and they didn’t torque to spec. I’m always hesitant to go to the dealer especially the car is out of warranty, but sometimes they might throw a bone. My passenger front head rest deployed and apparently that is still covered under warranty, dodo ably because of the lawsuits regarding the premature deployment of the headrests.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Sorry to be off topic, but your sway bar endlink looks like it might be loose and missing the grease zerk. Were you in the middle of working on it?
looking at the photo again, it appears the zerks are in fact there, and that copper looking thing is the nut that is all greased up due to oil residue. The zerk also appears greased up by the oil residue.
Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Gas Auto part
 

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I got out of my neighborhood when my neighbor and his 4WD Silverado couldn't. Blip the gas when it starts to dig into the snow so it flings it away and grabs traction. In places that get a ton of snow it might be different, but it's fine for southern US snow storms.
 

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looking at the photo again, it appears the zerks are in fact there, and that copper looking thing is the nut that is all greased up due to oil residue. The zerk also appears greased up by the oil residue.
View attachment 64268
The nut for the endlink is on the other side of the end of the sway bar end, hidden from view. I don't see anything that looks like copper. And I'm staring at where the zerk should be, the angle of the shadow, I still see a hole. Maybe it's an optical illusion thing. I tried seeing it as a zerk, but I just cant.
 
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