The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner

1 - 2 of 2 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been trying to track down an Evap leak for about two months now. But this story is about EGR Readiness.

Five days ago, I was filling up my van with gas to exactly 3/4 tank. I wanted to see if I replacing the filler neck had finally fixed my evap leak. I left the key in the ignition, so I could watch the gas gauge, and the pump was really pumping slow. When I was done, I went to start the engine, and all I could get was clicking. OK I guess I will need to buy a battery soon. I walked home, got a car to jump the van, but no sparks when I connected the cables (Meaning the van battery was fully charged?). I left the cables on for 10 minutes, and then it started, no problem. I got both cars home. I put the battery charger on, and it barely drew 1 amp. Of course all of the registers had become "not ready" again.

The next day, as my wife was driving to work, the overheating alarms all went off. She called me, and I brought my car for her to take to work. I popped the hood, and the engine was totally luke warm. There was no coolant on the ground, and there had not been enough time for the engine to cool off. TOTAL PHANTOM OVERHEATING. I drove the van for the rest of the day, and had no problems. If anything, the engine was running at about 10 degrees cooler than the 230 degrees I am used to seeing on my Torque app. I tried getting all my readiness registers set again.

The next day, I had a thought. What if the PCM had been left in a strange state by the failing to start at the gas station. The battery was now fully charged, so I pulled the battery cable for a full half hour. Then I made sure the cables where reattached good and tight. I was trying to get all the readiness registers set, and I was down to Evap and EGR. Got an Evap code again.

I am already past due for emissions inspection on my van. I have found that here in PA, I can have one register not set and still pass (2001 model year). I will eventually fix the evap, but if I keep the tank above 3/4 full, the Evap test won't run. Now my problem is, I can't get the EGR readiness register to set. I was not having that problem before. With two Registers not ready, I can't pass.

I read somewhere that the drive cycle for EGR requires constant driving 40-60 mph for like 8 minutes, with a coast to a stop (no brake). It is not setting the readiness. I have noticed that the fans seem to be running low speed all the time, even with no AC, Defrost, and daytime highs in the 60s. I was having rough idle before, that was due to installing a used alternator without an OAD pulley. Now that that is fixed, my Idle is smooth, but I still hear some belt chirp from something.

I read the following from: https://justsmogs.com/2014/01/chrysler-dodge-drive-cycle-procedures-to-complete-obd-readiness-monitors/

EGR System Monitor Drive Trace – Vacuum controlled
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
– MIL must be off.
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 40 & 60 mph for 8 minutes.

EGR System Monitor Drive Trace – Electronic
Pre-Conditioning Requirements:
– MIL must be off.
– MAP must be between 0-60 KPa.
– Engine speed between 500-850 rpm.
– ECT is above 180º F (90º C).
– No misfire temporary (pending) or matured fault present.
– A/C clutch, PS Switch and Cooling fans do not change state (turn off). <------
Driving Procedure
1) Idle vehicle for five (5) minutes (to reach closed loop operation).
2) Drive with a steady vehicle speed between 40 & 60 mph for 2 minutes.
3) Idle vehicle for three (3) minutes.
Note: This monitor evaluates EGR flow based on a change of engine roughness (idle stability).
Conditions causing un-stable idle will prevent this monitor from running.


Anybody got ideas?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
570 Posts
There is so much posted here of troubles, one has a hard time trying to understand where you need help to begin. :unsure:

Are you looking to keeping the van running as a daily driver or to pass your state emission testing?

As for the mystery overheating, a temp sensor or T-stat could be the issue. As for the cooling fans running on low, the sensor/relay needs to be checked to make sure it didn't fail safe to always be running.

Belt chirping could be the belt tensioner or even the pulley alignment. What is the age of the belt? And cheap knock-off brand belts will even chirp new.

There are 2 other threads here talking about stalling after filling the tank and shuddering with bad idle. There is a TSB fix Chrysler has for this rad both because you may get a FREE evap can out of the deal.

Tis the season for emission parts to go whacky. Cold temps bring them on.
 
1 - 2 of 2 Posts
Top