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My wife's 09 T&C has 189k miles on it. We've no idea if the timing belt and components have ever been changed, and I'm concerned about something breaking and destroying the engine, so I'm planning on doing the job this weekend. I've got a Gates TCKWP295D Timing Belt Component Kit coming from Amazon along with new plugs and coils coming from Rock Auto. I've looked through BenS's timing belt write-up which I think will be very helpful and I've watched some videos on YouTube. I think I'm ready but I'm a little anxious--this is a big job for me to do alone, and this is the family hauler so I have to have it up and going Sunday night to be in service again Monday morning. I want to make sure I've got everything ready so I don't have to waste time running to the parts store. For those of you who've done the job, any additional tips you can provide would be great. I do have some questions though if you're kind enough to provide some answers:

1 - Do I need any additional parts not included in the Gates kit? Seems like I've seem some comments about needing o-rings which aren't included. (I did get a new plenum gasket.)
2 - Is the Chrysler harmonic balancer puller required? I have a generic puller (the one that looks like a chicken's foot) but I'm not sure if that will work. I'm still trying to find a store that has the Chrysler puller for loan.
3 - I don't recall seeing torque specs in BenS's write-up. Is that documented anywhere? The last thing I need is to over tighten and break a bolt, or under tighten it and have it come apart.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So I was able to find the Chrysler puller for loan at O'Reilly's! I was also able to borrow an air ratchet which should help too.

While looking for torque specs, I found some repair guides on AutoZone's website so I browsed the applicable guides for my situation, and I noticed where it said to replace the three o-rings from the timing cover. Is this really necessary? Can I inspect and reuse them if they look good? I can't find an o-ring on any parts sites, and I hate to have to brings the rings into a store and have them individually matched up with replacements. Any insights? What did you do here?
 

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I just did mine over the last two weeks (didn't quit my daytime job ;-)). I likely used the same Gates kit from Amazon. No issues at all with it or the water pump I also got and replaced (you are going to do the water pump at the same time, right?). The documentation it comes with has torque specs in it specific to bolts around timing belt cover, etc. I also used a Haynes manual to validate and/or get torque specs for other stuff I replaced along the way (drive belt pulley, etc.).

I'm glad you got the Chrylser puller ... I tried two generic three jaw pullers and they didn't work.

It's not a bad idea to mark your old timing belt's teeth at TDC before you pull it. That way you can transcribe the marks to the new belt and be sure there's so additional slack between cogs that would force you to pull the tensioner (new tensioner, you are replacing this, right?) out and deal with compressing it, should you put the belt on and find you're no longer at TDC marks on two rotation test.

My water pump and timing cover bolts had some crap in the threads. Always a good idea to clean those before you try to put them back in as it'll help with threading.

Lastly - Getting the power steering pump off, and particularly back on (assuming you have the 4.0L), can be a little tricky depending on the sockets and ratchet you have. The space between the frame and the bolts was too slim for a short extension, but nearly too far of a reach for no extension. I cursed the most during it's replacement after the job, but just slightly less than when I pulled it out...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yes, I got the kit with the pump and pulley. My understanding is that these are more likely to fail before the belt so they need to be replaced too.

I also read somewhere about marking the belt itself so I'll definitely do that. I don't want to have to do this twice! Do you mean to lineup the teeth and transfer the marks to the new belt before putting it on, or put the belt on and mark it according to the marks on the cam sprocket? (Rotate the engine and see if the marks misalign?)

I already replaced the power steering pump earlier this year, so I'm experienced there. :)

Speaking of the included instructions, I did glance through them and noticed it says to depressurize the fuel rail. Is that required or more of a safety step like disconnecting the battery? I don't recall seeing that step in any other sources I looked at.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I just spoke to my wife's uncle (kinda semi-pro mechaic), and he said I need something called cam stops to hold the cams in place. I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere. Thoughts?
 

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I'm not experienced in this repair, but understand whats involved. Along with the already present timing marks, as was posted mark existing belt, transcribe, make more marks as needed. Preventing cams from moving is also a good idea, as valve springs may want to move camshaft. Zip ties? wood wedges? You definitely want to verify nothing moved when you release belt tension, and rotate engine by hand a couple of full cycles to insure everything is still lined up. You're a lot braver than me, it's not a job I would tackle.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Working on taking spark plugs out when I find one is SOAKED in oil. I've seen wet plugs before but this is ridiculous. I hope it's something an o-ring in the valve cover will fix. I started a new thread for help.

Spark plug soaked in oil

Oh the fun...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Putting the timing belt on, and the marks I made for the crank and right cam are lining up, but the left cam mark is off by a tooth. Any trick to get lined up right?
 

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Left cam is belt tensioner side? If so move cam one tooth off in the other direction, so when you free the tensioner it should rotate so the marks line up (if that makes any sense?)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I haven't put the tensioner on yet. The pulley is there, just not the tensioner. The slack I need to pickup is between the cams around the water pump. The belt needs to move one tooth left/rear from the water pump.

When the old belt was on, I took nail polish and market the belt at the timing marks on the cams then transferred those marks to the new belt so I could ensure it's installed correctly. I've double-checked that the marks on the belts line up, so I just need to somehow get the slack out of the belt. :unsure:

Gotta get this done today... wish me luck!
 

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Good luck, you will get it done. (y)
 

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Does the 4.0L have a timing belt? If so there must be thousands of this generation of Chrysler minivans that need to have the belt replaced ? I know the belt replacement was a BIG maintenance requirement for Japanese cars.
 

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I thought I was one tooth off on the left, but it was just the angle at which I was looking. If you take your phone's camera and put it directly perpendicular to the belt / cam sprocket, you may find that you're at TDC still. I didn't notice it until after I'd run through 2 rotations (which felt clean), put the cover back on, etc., and turned in for the evening at which point I saw what I thought was misalignment in photos. Then had to go back out the next morning and take everything apart just to make sure.

One last thing, and I'm not sure where you're at (sounds like you may still be working on it), is that the original post didn't have anything about reinstalling the harmonic balancer. Most auto stores (AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Advanced, NAPA, etc.), DON'T carry a Harmonic Balancer installer tool kit with a M12 x 1.75 threaded adapter, which is what is needed for threading into the crankshaft / pressing the harmonic balancer back on. I didn't want to trust a low grade M12 threaded bolt from ACE, so I ordered a Harmonic Balancer installer kit from Amazon with an M12 x 1.75 installer.

O'Reilly guys were thinking I could get away with a Grade 8 1/2-13 5" bolt, but I wasn't keen on using a 1/2" bolt in an M12 even though the threaded seemed to be ok in the store testers.

If others want to comment on how they installed their harmonic balancer, I'm sure it'd help everyone here :).

Whatever you do, don't hammer it on!!!! Just a bad idea.
 

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I haven't put the tensioner on yet. The pulley is there, just not the tensioner. The slack I need to pickup is between the cams around the water pump. The belt needs to move one tooth left/rear from the water pump.

When the old belt was on, I took nail polish and market the belt at the timing marks on the cams then transferred those marks to the new belt so I could ensure it's installed correctly. I've double-checked that the marks on the belts line up, so I just need to somehow get the slack out of the belt. :unsure:

Gotta get this done today... wish me luck!
It can be a tight fit, even without the tensioner. I'm assuming you got it by now, but it helped me to not fully seat the belt into the other cam sprocket at water pump as I brought it onto the last cam sprocket, otherwise you lose some slack length to lateral displacement of the belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes, I ended up getting the job done. I called in my wife's uncle to take a look, and he said it was OK the way I had it. We set the tensioner and turned the motor over twice--the marks lined up!

I ended up putting the motor together partially so it would run and listened to it for a few minutes to make sure nothing was amiss. I didn't want to get everything on just to find out there was a problem and have to tear it all apart again. It started and ran fine, and the 15 minute test drive was successful. I didn't get a call from my wife this morning as she drive in to work, so I guess it worked for her too!

Thanks for everyone's attention on this!
 

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(y)(y) to a job well done.
 

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Does the 4.0L have a timing belt? If so there must be thousands of this generation of Chrysler minivans that need to have the belt replaced ?
Yes, the 4.0L uses a timing belt. I didn't do my research before buying and just assumed the 4.0L was similar to their 3.3/3.8 with a displacement bump
 

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I believe the 3.3L and 3.8L are "resistance" motors even though they have a timing chain.
 
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