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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have 77,000 miles on my 2002 T&C Lx, 3.3 Litter. Great compression, new plugs, wires, air filter, and cleaned the fuel injectors. I can not get any better than 20 mpg highway. My 2002 T&C got about 24 mpg.

Any ideas on what to check next?
 

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You may wish to check the forum for threads (discussions) on plugs and wires. You can do a "SEARCH".

The "spiral wound" wires are preferred, as well as 9mm insulation, over 7mm insulation (overall diameter).

There are interesting discussions you'll find (actually enlightenment) pertaining to plugs. What has been found is that some plugs actually degrade your MPG when installed in these engines. I'm sure there are technical explanations, however, what many have found has been through trial and much error. The good news is that they have been kind to document it and share it with us all.

For starters, stay away from the "resistor plugs".

Using the cruise control on long trips helps tremendously, too.

Lastly, some may brag about getting over 100kmiles on a set of plugs and wires. Some may brag about wearing their underwear for weeks, too, but what's the advantage ? In Arizona, rubber dry-rots from the heat (drys out, hardens, cracks), so I usually replace the plugs and wires around 50kmiles, if only for peace of mind.

There's much to be found on this forum to help you, simply "SEARCH" and reap the rewards of other's.

Keep us informed.
 

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I have 77,000 miles on my 2002 T&C Lx, 3.3 Litter. Great compression, new plugs, wires, air filter, and cleaned the fuel injectors. I can not get any better than 20 mpg highway. My 2002 T&C got about 24 mpg.

Any ideas on what to check next?
Tires vs. tires. They can make a big difference. Do you happen the know the old vs. the new?

Roof rack? One has the other didn't?

I assume the same engine?

Outside air temp vs. the compared example?

Tire pressure?

Alignment specs? Just because it is in spec does not make the alignment equal.

Rear air on one and not the other?

Daytime running lights on one and not the other?

Oil in one vs. the other?

Air cleaner in one vs the other?

Hood deflector on one and not the other?

A lot of things to take a look at. A lot of what-ifs.
 

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averkam has good points about the differences between vans. :beerchug:

Tires and air pressure are "THREAD" discussions on their own. AND They Do Make A Massive Difference On MPG.

Recommend you "SEARCH" the Forum on TIRES Then another "SEARCH" on Tire Pressure

There's lots to learn in these areas. READ UP, before you get back to us, please. But, definitely get back to us.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
You may wish to check the forum for threads (discussions) on plugs and wires. You can do a "SEARCH".

The "spiral wound" wires are preferred, as well as 9mm insulation, over 7mm insulation (overall diameter).

There are interesting discussions you'll find (actually enlightenment) pertaining to plugs. What has been found is that some plugs actually degrade your MPG when installed in these engines. I'm sure there are technical explanations, however, what many have found has been through trial and much error. The good news is that they have been kind to document it and share it with us all.

For starters, stay away from the "resistor plugs".

Using the cruise control on long trips helps tremendously, too.

Lastly, some may brag about getting over 100kmiles on a set of plugs and wires. Some may brag about wearing their underwear for weeks, too, but what's the advantage ? In Arizona, rubber dry-rots from the heat (drys out, hardens, cracks), so I usually replace the plugs and wires around 50kmiles, if only for peace of mind.

There's much to be found on this forum to help you, simply "SEARCH" and reap the rewards of other's.

Keep us informed.
Thanks for the help. I am new to this site. How do I do a search for information on the best spark plugs to use for this van? 2002 3.3 Lx T&C
 

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What this have to do with MPG? :ask_wsign
Burning the headlights uses power, power is generated by the alternator, the alternator is turned by the engine and the engine uses gas.

Anything you can do to reduce accessory loading will save gas.

Albeit the headlights are probably minimal in comparison but they do use power.
 

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Burning the headlights uses power, power is generated by the alternator, the alternator is turned by the engine and the engine uses gas.

Anything you can do to reduce accessory loading will save gas.

Albeit the headlights are probably minimal in comparison but they do use power.
In that context,more night driving will give worse mileage thanks to all the lights that are on,and summer driving will take more due to AC useage. (although in the winter you now have heater/wiper/defroster useage as well).
I think parasitic losses and electrical loads are going to effect low hp vehicles far greater than higher hp engines.A 440 6-pack will barely notice a subwoofer electrical drain,but hook a power hog to a 1.7 liter Omni and watch the mileage drop.However with the 440,the mileage would be so bad to begin with,it couldnt get any worse.With the Omni,you may start out at 35-40mpg,and may lose 4 or 5 due to the drain.Still,no biggie deal.
 

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Burning the headlights uses power, power is generated by the alternator, the alternator is turned by the engine and the engine uses gas.
But Daytime running lights are much less powerful than the headlights... probably you'll lose 100 feet per gallon :nut:
 

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In that context,more night driving will give worse mileage thanks to all the lights that are on,and summer driving will take more due to AC useage. (although in the winter you now have heater/wiper/defroster useage as well).
I think parasitic losses and electrical loads are going to effect low hp vehicles far greater than higher hp engines.A 440 6-pack will barely notice a subwoofer electrical drain,but hook a power hog to a 1.7 liter Omni and watch the mileage drop.However with the 440,the mileage would be so bad to begin with,it couldnt get any worse.With the Omni,you may start out at 35-40mpg,and may lose 4 or 5 due to the drain.Still,no biggie deal.
All you have said is very true. It may not be very noticeable in and of itself but add up all the little things some time. You will be surprised how much power is actually required.
 

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The speed I run has everything to do with the mileage I get on my 02 T&C. I've made several 1000 mile trips to Denver, one trip I drove through Southern Kansas on 2 lane roads and put the cruise control on 60mph. That 1000 miles the mileage computer showed I was averaging slightly over 25mpg. Most times when I run the interstate at 70 it returns around 21.

I've owned 4 Chrysler Mini-Vans...85 Plymouth Voyager 2.2 3 speed Automatic carburated, 88 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.0 FI 3 speed automatic, 92 Plymouth Grand Voyager 3.3 FI 4 speed overdrive and the 02 T&C LX 3.3 4 speed overdrive. In combined city/highway all vans basically get the same mileage.
 

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I have 77,000 miles on my 2002 T&C Lx, 3.3 Litter. Great compression, new plugs, wires, air filter, and cleaned the fuel injectors. I can not get any better than 20 mpg highway. My 2002 T&C got about 24 mpg.

Any ideas on what to check next?
Getting 23 -24 mpg is a realistic expectation, I think. How are you measuring your gas mileage? I don't depend on my computer for this as it tends to show better than I am actually getting based on successive fill ups. Some computers tend to show low as well.
- tire air pressure is a significent factor (already mentioned), I think, but that can be debated. From http://www.autoblog.com/2009/04/02/california-to-require-mandatory-tire-pressure-checks-at-automoti/
Those figures are based off statistics which show that vehicles lose 1% efficiency for every 3 psi a tire is low. Testing by Consumer Reports showed little or no impact on fuel economy when tire pressure is off by 10%, though most agree that low tire pressure will shorten the life of tires. Fewer tires in state landfills figures to be a good thing, too.
I run 38 -40 psi cold in mine.
- softer tire, like winter treads, will be harder to push, flex more and use more gas
- air conditioning can zap a mpg or two
- engine rpms, the higher they are, the more gas you burn normally
- highway speeds and the weight in your vehicle. Gain any weight lately? :biggrin: Your best gas mileage may be at 60 mph and anything above that will start zapping that figure. Here's what your Government says:
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/driveHabits.shtml
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/FEG/factors.shtml

Do you know what the gearing is for your vehicle, compared to your previous vehicle?

Be careful of the terrain where you measure your gas mileage. For example, if one is following a river for miles and miles toward its source, you are actually going uphill. Your trip back will give you better gas mileage.
 

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Mine's about the same. Right now it's showing 21.2 combined over the course of 3 tanks, but I've noticed that with the air on at 75mph it's 18-20 and air off at 55 it's 24-28

No roofrack, marker lights on, music on (iPod through tape player), foglights (present but off), no ground effects or decals (except for wheels and grille), 16-inch alloy wheels, Yokohama Avid tires, 3.3L V6, 87 gas
 
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