Popping sound from front end of my 2013 T&C

Joegolden said:

Hey folks! Hope all is well and enjoying some warm weather! It's hot here in GA now:FIREdevil

I have 87k on our 2013 van and I have been noticing something strange as of late. There is some slack or something in the drivetrain. I am getting a popping sound when feathering the throttle around 45mph and under. It also happens sometimes during stop and go. The transmission still shifts great. It feels like there is some slack in the front axles or driveshafts? It's hard to explain. But it's very noticeable and anyone can here it inside the vehicle. Windows up as well. Anyone ever heard of this issue before? My 2010 never had this issue. But it's transmission wasn't quite as smooth either.

Thx. Joe

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Hey Joe,

If you want to PM your VIN, I'm happy to check TSBs and bulletins on our end to see if something matches up with the symptoms you're experiencing.

Kori
Chrysler Social Care Specialist

Thanks Lori I will!

Hey guys this popping sound seems to be getting worse under light throttle, stop and go, and cruising speeds under 50mph. I drive the van most of the time with 6th gear manually locked out since 5th is plenty for around town traffic. I only use 6th on the freeway. Now 5th will have the sense of lost motion when feathering the throttle and cruising speed. It gives you that "pop" when feathering the throttle. It's like there is slack between the tranny and axles or something. Heck I don't know! But it's driving me nuts! Does anyone Else have any strange "pop" like this? Tranny mount? Engine mount?

The van shifts perfectly and does NOT CLUNK OR SLIP. It actually shifts very smooth and is responsive. I love this van but I sure wish I could figure this out. Thx. I love this place!

Check your control arm bushings, and tie-rod ends (inner and outer).

Ok invader thanks! I heard a few people had loose axle nuts. Thought I might check them as well. Gonna bring it to work tom and put on lift. We will see. Driving me nuts!

Improperly torqued axle nut is also possible... It happened once on a then new 1995 Neon.

I would check the engine and transmission mounts.

I literally raced home from work (36 miles freeway and 4 miles stop and go) to reply to this thread. NO POPPING! I tightened the axle nut on driver side. It was almost a full turn loose. Passenger side was tight. It did not budge. The van no longer has the sense of lost motion in the drivetrain (slack) or whatever. No rough reverse to drive shifting and vice versa. All symptoms erased. I never thought something so simple would cause such a racket. Very happy! THANK YOU to this forum and all the suggestions

Axle nuts

Glad you found the noise

Joegolden said:

I literally raced home from work (36 miles freeway and 4 miles stop and go) to reply to this thread. NO POPPING! I tightened the axle nut on driver side. It was almost a full turn loose. Passenger side was tight. It did not budge. The van no longer has the sense of lost motion in the drivetrain (slack) or whatever. No rough reverse to drive shifting and vice versa. All symptoms erased. I never thought something so simple would cause such a racket. Very happy! THANK YOU to this forum and all the suggestions

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Did you torque the axle nuts to spec? Glad you found it. I noticed the axle nuts don't have cotter pins, wonder why they did that besides saving 2 cents per axle.

The nut is staked with chisel and hammer, which is common practice. I haven't seen cotter pins on axle nuts lately... It should be torqued to 118 ft-lbs. You can stick a large screwdriver in the rotor against caliper, to avoid stressing the CV joints while tightening (or loosening) axle nut.

invader said:

The nut is staked with chisel and hammer, which is common practice. I haven't seen cotter pins on axle nuts lately... It should be torqued to 118 ft-lbs. You can stick a large screwdriver in the rotor against caliper, to avoid stressing the CV joints while tightening (or loosening) axle nut.

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Chisel and hammer, common practice?

A large screwdriver in the rotor?

No, it's not needed. Just tighten it to specs with the tire on the ground. You will need a 3/4" breaker bar / ratchet or better.

LEVY said:

Chisel and hammer, common practice?

A large screwdriver in the rotor?

No, it's not needed. Just tighten it to specs with the tire on the ground. You will need a 3/4" breaker bar / ratchet or better.

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That's right... It's explained here: http://www.allpar.com/model/m/repairs/2008-halfshaft/

Yes a large screwdriver in the rotor against the caliper to secure it and keep it from moving when tightening axle nut when the wheel is removed... It's just easier that way.

Do I always have to explain everything to you, LEVY?

invader said:

That's right... It's explained here: http://www.allpar.com/model/m/repairs/2008-halfshaft/

Yes a large screwdriver in the rotor against the caliper to secure it and keep it from moving when tightening axle nut when the wheel is removed... It's just easier that way.

Do I always have to explain everything to you, LEVY?

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No, you don't need to explain anything to me. Just because you see it on internet, doesn't necessarily means is true and correct. Using a screwdriver like that is not safe, if you know you are going to remove that nut, do it before you lift the vehicle, that is the best and safest way, next way is to ask a helper to step on the brakes.

Why tightening that nut with the wheel removed when you can wait a little and do it once the wheel is on the ground. Use a breaker bar and a socket, not a chisel and hammer!

Yes, LEVY, a breaker bar with socket is used to loosen axle nut, and a torque wrench is used to tighten it to no more than 118 ft-lbs. This front axle nut is actually pre-staked. A new nut is recommended when removed and reinstalled, although the existing nut can be carefully restaked with chisel and hammer after retightening... Yes, a large screwdriver can be safely inserted in the rotor's cooling slot and let it rest up against caliper, instead of applying brakes.

invader said:

... Yes, a large screwdriver can be safely inserted in the rotor's cooling slot and let it rest up against caliper, instead of applying brakes.

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My question remains, why loosening / tightening with the tire removed?

Safest and easier way, loose it or tighten it with tire installed and on the ground.

LEVY said:

My question remains, why loosening / tightening with the tire removed?

Safest and easier way, loose it or tighten it with tire installed and on the ground.

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You can only access the hub nut with the tires installed when you have steel wheels. On the alum wheels (at least the factory ones) the center cap hole is not large enough to get the socket through.

1994 Sport said:

You can only access the hub nut with the tires installed when you have steel wheels. On the alum wheels (at least the factory ones) the center cap hole is not large enough to get the socket through.

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I just removed both sides of mine with O.E. aluminum wheels installed, so that answer is not necessarily true, at least not on my 2012 T&C.