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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a power liftgate with 2 issues.
1 it goes up automatically but will NOT come down automatically
2 when I shut it gently, the latch never sucks the liftgate the rest of the way in and latches. I have to shut it like shutting a door normally.

Could this be WHY my liftgate refueses to come down?
If I push the button again while it is oin the way up, it stops and ratchets up like it is TRYING to stop but refueses? Could it be that the latch is not sending the signal that hey everything is fine, I am unlatched you can shut me without me hitting the striker and damaging myself? Anyone else seen this?
 

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They have made things so complicated, it might be easier to take it to the dealer

from the service manual

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POWER SLIDING DOOR LEARN CYCLE

NOTE: Any time a power sliding door component is removed, replaced, door adjustment is performed or diagnostic trouble codes are addressed and erased, a learn cycle must be performed.
The power sliding door learn cycle enables the power sliding door control module to learn or relearn critical information (travel limits, resistance to door travel, door position, etc.) which allows the system to perform properly and safely. To perform a power sliding door learn cycle do the following:

Obtain an appropriate scan tool.
Connect the scan tool to the vehicle and check for any power sliding door system stored trouble codes, correct and erase any stored codes.
Close effected sliding door.
Using the scan tool, select the Power Sliding Door Control Module (PSDM) Menu, More Options, System Tests and select the Open Door Test.
Using the scan tool check "routine status" for a pass or fail message. If the Open Door Test did not pass, the scan tool will display the reason to aid in system diagnosis or rerunning the Open Door Test routine.
Using the scan tool, select the Power Sliding Door Control Module (PSDM) Menu, More Options, System Tests and select the Close Door Test.
Using the scan tool check "routine status" for a pass or fail message. If the Close Door Test did not pass, the scan tool will display the reason to aid in system diagnosis or rerunning the Close Door Test routine.
Follow the instructions on the scan tool to complete the test.
The power sliding door learn cycle is complete.
NOTE: If the power sliding door will not complete a full cycle a problem exists in the power sliding door system.
In order to obtain conclusive testing of the power sliding door system, the Controller Area Network (CAN) data bus, and all of the electronic modules that provide inputs to, or receive outputs from the power sliding door system components must be checked. Any diagnosis of the power sliding door system should begin with, the use of a scan tool and the appropriate diagnostic service information.
 

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I don't see anything? You have a phone right? I know you can take a video of what is happening. So why don't you do that, come back, post the video, and we can tell you for sure what is going on.

Here are some videos I found.



http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caravan/71150-rear-hatch-stuck-cant-open-hatch.html

And heres one from 2008

http://forum.chryslerminivan.net/showthread.php/8044-Help!-Power-Liftgate-Stuck-In-Open-Position!

http://www.justanswer.com/chrysler/44148-02-grand-caravan-power-lift-gate-opened-normally.html

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-c...x-lift-gate-electrical-latch-motor-fried.html

http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caravan/194634-02-gc-power-lift-gate-malfunction.html

http://dodgecaravanforum.com/topic/10933-power-latch-actuator-rear-lift-gate/



So, there is like 10 other web sites about dodge minivans. No wonder this place is starting to look lonely over the years.
 

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Interesting thanks for that blknblu.

Is it a similar complicated procedure for the power tailgate?
 

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I have a power liftgate with 2 issues.
1 it goes up automatically but will NOT come down automatically
2 when I shut it gently, the latch never sucks the liftgate the rest of the way in and latches. I have to shut it like shutting a door normally.

Could this be WHY my liftgate refueses to come down?
If I push the button again while it is oin the way up, it stops and ratchets up like it is TRYING to stop but refueses? Could it be that the latch is not sending the signal that hey everything is fine, I am unlatched you can shut me without me hitting the striker and damaging myself? Anyone else seen this?
Welcome to the site.
You have 2 issues and I have 2 questions:
What year is your van?
Is it still under warranty??

And to answer your question yes, if the striker switch is not working correctly it will not power close.
I believe member "spong" had an issue with his latch when it was brand new? Maybe he can shed some light on this issue? Calling spong......
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the responces guys. This is going to be covered under initial purchase agreement. It is not under warranty but I told them it would have to get fixed in order for me to buy it. I was just curious. I think the mechanic is thinking the issue is in the gas struts. I think it is the latch mechanism isn't sending the signal that hey I am open afterall. Opening it automatically works fine, it just refuses to close with the fobki, overhead, or rear button. The fobki at least blinks the lights to aknowledge it got the signal. Not my problem really it will be the mechanics. I just highly suspect the latch. Especially since I gently close it and it doesn't cinch it shut. I have to manually shut it with the force of a regular door to get it to latch.
 
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Welcome to the site.
You have 2 issues and I have 2 questions:
What year is your van?
Is it still under warranty??

And to answer your question yes, if the striker switch is not working correctly it will not power close.
I believe member "spong" had an issue with his latch when it was brand new? Maybe he can shed some light on this issue? Calling spong......
Hello, hello!!

Yes, mine didn't work right off the lot. I transferred all our stuff from our previous van to the new van, pressed the closing button and it tried to close but didn't. It was a Saturday and the service dept said they would need to order the parts. They ended up replacing the whole assembly IIRC days later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It wound up beeing a "loose wire" that caused it. I don't know if that means a loose body ground, or if that means that it was the multipin connector at the liftgate motor. The service center I took it to (where I purchased it) they only sell GMC's and Buicks so they took it across the street to the competition to have it fixed. Now I just need this EVAP thing figured out. It is about to drive me crazy.
 
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I know this is a old post but my 2013 goes up fine.beeps then goes up but will not close . replaced rear hatch motor still nothing.when I push a button the dash display says close hatch manually.please help
 
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