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I know about the problem with the door locks completely failing, and using the IOD trick, or possibly reprogramming the BCM, but I don't think this is related. I can use the switch to unlock the doors and I hear the actuators working, but neither of the switches will lock the doors. I thought it may be a bad switch.. I replaced the driver side with with no results. Should I try replacing the passenger side, or is there something else I should be looking at?
 

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This is a common problem, disconnect a battery terminal for at least 1 hour, this may only solve the problem temporarily.
You may have to go to the dealer and get a flash update for the BCM, the update also fixes other issues.
 

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In addition to what hwystar and others stated....

This is something I have encountered.
I have seen earlier models as late as 2005 where the door locks would work one way (lock for example) but not unlock.
I have spent considerable time researching this.

What I have found is that this can result from very, very small changes in wire resistance anywhere from the key position switch sensor all the way to the grounding wire for the BCM and practically anywhere in between

One of the major pitfalls to modern automotive design is over complication. Manufacturers do not know the phrase "Keep it simple stupid".
Instead, automobiles are growing more and more complex and more dependent on electronics to govern every aspect of it's operation.
In some ways this is good.....in others it's a disaster especially as vehicles age.

What worked fine from the factory, can become a nightmare years down the road as a vehicle has endured use, humidity and age.

As for the door locks, the reason they may work in one direction and not the other is because the locking system utilizes two different resistance values.
One for the Lock signal and another for the Unlock signal. should for any reason the BCM receive a slightly resisted value for locking or unlocking,
that signal becomes ineffective. So, while you may be able to lock the doors, you cannot unlock them.

Keep in mind that it could be another switch in the circuit, side or rear hatch switch for example that is causing the problem as well.
I never replace the switches as a diagnostic. I test the circuit to determine WHERE exactly the problem is originating.

Another common problem is the BCM itself. On the BCM circuit board is a capacitor. Capacitors are known to breakdown with time.
Sometimes, replacing that capacitor can correct BCM related issues.

I have also found that as vehicles age, contacts wear and corrosion (even whens it's not visible to the naked eye) can set in and
cause erratic electrical behavior. Sometimes simply removing a component such as the BCM and re-installing it can cure the problem even if it's temporarily.
The real "cure" is to carefully dress (clean) every connection pin, then use a dielectric grease to protect the connector from moisture and corrosion.

It's really a bummer to be somewhere and have the vehicle refuse to
start or unlock. But this is exactly what vehicle owners are increasingly in for as their high-tech vehicles age.
Manufacturers "could" put more effort into preventing these problems but the reality is that it's just too darn profitable for them.
I don't have data to back this assertion but I would feel safe saying that more money flows into dealerships through repairs and related parts sales
and diagnostics of inherent design shortcomings or intentional deficits than new car sales by a considerable margin.

I hope this helps.
 
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