The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
Joined
·
5,321 Posts
Nope, just a ton of work pulling parts off of donor vans at the junkyard and transferring them over. Then you have to program the feature in. That's one of the few things I would suggest buying already on the van and not attempting to add.
 
  • Like
  • Helpful
Reactions: Michalb and Jeepman

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
30,167 Posts
Some companies do conversions, but at what cost? As to where they source the parts, I don't know. Here's an example of what can be done:

A previous Thread on this:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Michalb and Sienile

·
Registered
2009 GCV SE
Joined
·
1,975 Posts
There is no retrofit kit to my knowledge, however that doesn't mean you can't add them.

The main question is how much time are you willing to spend, and are you capable of removing panels and running wiring? The easiest way is to swap out the wiring harness as a whole in the interior of the van, to one that is new from the factory or one that you will find from a donor vehicle. I explained some of the process in depth with the link Jeepman posted above.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Brick Urban design Wood
 

·
Registered
538 RWHP, LS motor, RX7 body
Joined
·
583 Posts
Nothing beats being able to pull the doors open or closed manually, by hand without breaking something in the automated system.... Especially when the motors/ cables/ tracks / buttons fail . A system that doesn't let you do that (bypass or disengage) when the system fails is no good.
 

·
Registered
2012 Town & Country Touring. 171k and counting. Slowly upgrading to a Limited trim.
Joined
·
140 Posts
There is no retrofit kit to my knowledge, however that doesn't mean you can't add them.

The main question is how much time are you willing to spend, and are you capable of removing panels and running wiring? The easiest way is to swap out the wiring harness as a whole in the interior of the van, to one that is new from the factory or one that you will find from a donor vehicle. I explained some of the process in depth with the link Jeepman posted above.
View attachment 67807
Impressive! One questions, how hard was it for you to remove the seat risers? Ive tried on mine, but the bolts are very very VERY stuck.
 

·
Registered
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
Joined
·
5,321 Posts
They aren't bolts... they're studs that protrude out the bottom. You will need to remove the spare tire, its upper cover, and a few pieces of shielding to get to all of them. Super easy on a lift, but I would not want to do it on the ground.
 

·
Registered
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
Joined
·
5,321 Posts
Nothing beats being able to pull the doors open or closed manually, by hand without breaking something in the automated system.... Especially when the motors/ cables/ tracks / buttons fail . A system that doesn't let you do that (bypass or disengage) when the system fails is no good.
These will allow you to operate them manually in the event of a failure. They will attempt to work, but after 3 or 4 failed attempts will disengage the motor. At any point during the attempts, if you pull the exterior handle, it will abort and disengage.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Michalb

·
Registered
2012 Town & Country Touring. 171k and counting. Slowly upgrading to a Limited trim.
Joined
·
140 Posts
Seat risers? The place the seats attach to the floors?
I guess, the seat attaches to the metal raiders, and those attach to the floor. Mine are hardcore stuck and I can’t get them out. I haven’t tried heating them with a torch, yet. But I fear that’s what it will take to free them.
They aren't bolts... they're studs that protrude out the bottom. You will need to remove the spare tire, its upper cover, and a few pieces of shielding to get to all of them. Super easy on a lift, but I would not want to do it on the ground.
Yes, bolts.. I misspoke. Ive tried to get my passenger seat out once, on the ground and gave up.. guess Ill see if the local garage will free them up for me.
Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
2009 GCV SE
Joined
·
1,975 Posts
I guess, the seat attaches to the metal raiders, and those attach to the floor. Mine are hardcore stuck and I can’t get them out. I haven’t tried heating them with a torch, yet. But I fear that’s what it will take to free them.

Yes, bolts.. I misspoke. Ive tried to get my passenger seat out once, on the ground and gave up.. guess Ill see if the local garage will free them up for me.
Thanks again.
If you use a normal ratchet then they will never come out, you need a breaker bar to loosen them, and even as you unscrew them the rust makes it hard to screw out those bolts. Or, if you have a very powerful impact then that will work as well. To get to 2 of the 4 bolts, you need to lower the spare tire and remove the plastic spare tire shield as well.
You can also use a torque wrench if you can reverse the direction it spins in. Just set the torque high so it doesn't click and loosen the bolts off that way. I never had a problem removing these bolts with either a breaker bar or the torque wrench, but a strong impact is the fastest and easiest.
 

·
Registered
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
Joined
·
5,321 Posts
I second the breaker bar solution. I used an impact to get mine off, but reinstalled them by hand with a breaker. I added 1 inch spacers so I could mount a subwoofer under the passenger seat, so I didn't want to run the risk of damaging the only threads I could reach by using the impact and it over-tightening. I think I remember them having thread locker on them. That is probably why they are so hard to break free.
 

·
Registered
538 RWHP, LS motor, RX7 body
Joined
·
583 Posts
I second the breaker bar solution. I used an impact to get mine off, but reinstalled them by hand with a breaker. I added 1 inch spacers so I could mount a subwoofer under the passenger seat, so I didn't want to run the risk of damaging the only threads I could reach by using the impact and it over-tightening. I think I remember them having thread locker on them. That is probably why they are so hard to break free.
Because I don't have a acetylene torch :D The best thing I have ever purchased was an induction bolt heater. Use with water or an inverted can of "air duster" for max temp shock.
Thread locker will let go at ~300-400F (thus not good for brake systems).
 

·
Registered
2013 Dodge Grand Caravan
Joined
·
5,321 Posts
With carpet being just beyond a few sheets of thin metal, I really don't think heat is the best thing to do here. I've seen those induction heaters turn bolts bright red, which is definitely enough to cause a fire.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Michalb

·
Registered
2009 GCV SE
Joined
·
1,975 Posts
With carpet being just beyond a few sheets of thin metal, I really don't think heat is the best thing to do here. I've seen those induction heaters turn bolts bright red, which is definitely enough to cause a fire.
I agree. I wouldn't heat up any bolts from the underside what have carpet or panels a few mm above. Not long ago someone bought a burned T&C, I believe someone was heating up the 2'nd row seat belt bolt which attaches the end of the belt to the floor, but it caught the interior on fire. This is why I didn't remove the interior carpet of my van when i swapped wiring, I folded it onto the driver side of the van because the bolt for the 2'nd row driver side seat belt end was seized in place.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top