[dp_stickney]

1999 Dodge Grand Caravan
3.8L Engine

I'm losing power steering fluid through my rusted power steering pump housing. I've reviewed the posts for power steering pump replacement and my repair book. Any suggestions before I get started? It does not look like fun...

Questions:
1. Do I really need to disconnect the exhaust?
2. Should I instead go for the wheel well?
3. Do I need to remove the crank pulley?
4. Is it any easier to simply replace the reservior can?

Thanks guys!

Dave

 

[black95jimmy]

1. No
2. No
3. No
4. No

Find my post and pictures, take it out the top like I did. Once you get the Alt. out of the way, 6 bolts on the bracket, one from the exhaust manifold, two lines and one bolt on the back of the pump.

 

[alvin]

The can should be easy to change and someone posted that they did.

 

[Homoudont]

I went from the top, actually had to do the spark plugs and O2 sensor anyway. I got the instructions from this site, so I am sure you can search and find it. But no I didn't have to remove the crank pulley, or mess with the exhaust.

 

[dp_stickney]

OK then. Remove the alternator and go from the top with the pulley attached is the preferred method? That sounds much easier than messing with the exhaust.

Thanks for the feedback!

Dave

 

[black95jimmy]

OK then. Remove the alternator and go from the top with the pulley attached is the preferred method? That sounds much easier than messing with the exhaust.

Thanks for the feedback!

Dave

Yes, also makes it easier to drop back in as a sub assembly once attached to the bracket.

Take off the Tensioner pully also. More room.

 

[dp_stickney]

I'm going in.

The alternator is out, I just have to find the nut for the bottom bolt. I needed another hand to grab it!
Once the tensioner pulley is off do I remove the big bracket for the alternator and power steering?

Thanks!

Dave

 

[dp_stickney]

Found the nut for the bottom alternator bolt, but the bolts behind the power steering pump are a pain. On the hunt for some low profile and/or offset 15mm wrenches.

Dave

 

[black95jimmy]

I'm going in.

The alternator is out, I just have to find the nut for the bottom bolt. I needed another hand to grab it!
Once the tensioner pulley is off do I remove the big bracket for the alternator and power steering?



Thanks!



Dave

Yes you can snake the whole thing out and mount the new one to the bracket then reverse the process.

 

[dp_stickney]

I see what you mean. I did it the hard way as usual. To give myself some extra space, I took off the cowl (which is no big deal) The pump is out, and I am trying to remove the pulley with agear puller. This does not seem to be a good idea as I can hear the plastic creaking.

Thanks!

Dave

 

[black95jimmy]

I bought a new pulley just for that reason.

 

[dp_stickney]

I now know about and have acquired that power steering pulley tool and a new pulley. Are there any tricks I should know for mounting?

The new pump came with 2 o-rings. One is a good match for the high pressure line. The other, larger, one is a mystery that I'd like to solve before putting everything together. I will review the stud and the plug that had to be moved over from my old PS pump. Any other thoughts?

If I can solve this mystery and mount the pulley, I should be able to wrap this project up today.

Thanks!

Dave

 

[dp_stickney]

Figured out why my pulley was not going on well... Parts store gave me the wrong pulley. The correct part for a 1999 Grand Caravan with a 3.8L is Dorman 300-101. Definitely not a 300-305. After breaking the Advance Auto tool, I picked up a really nice puller/installer set from Harbor Freight which includes a bearing to reduce friction and the bolt is much heavier. It even comes in a case!

Finally on with the project...

Thanks!

Dave

 

[raj49]

Yea my 3.0L uses the 300-305 pulley. It was kinda of a pain to get the pulley back on. I was holding the pulley with my hand and it started chaffing after a couple turns. I then got 2 M10(I think)-1.50 bolts and threaded it into the pump to keep the pulley from rotating and it was lot easier.
Also, for those doing a pump R&R on at least the 3.0L motor, theres a stud on the back of pump that attaches the "L" bracket. New pumps probably wont have this stud and you'll have to replace it. You can replace it with a bolt, but it will leak near that thread somewhere down the line. Mine was 4 years. It needs to be sealed, welded or JB welded just in front of the threads.
Also, I got the pump off through the wheel well by taking off the A/C compressor Drive pulley only (which is in front of and seperate of crankshaft pulley). I know "black95jimmy" says take off the belt tensioner bracket, but that seems like alot of work to me. Whatever works.

 

[Chrysler1924]

Question: Do you have a Haynes/Chilton/Factory Service manual at your disposal for reference??

 

[dp_stickney]

My solution

The job is done. If it were not for the pulley troubles, I would have been done in a day. It ended up taking me 2 full days.

The rough steps I followed were:
1. Remove the cowl for room.
2. Remove the serpentine belt.
3. Remove the passenger wheel and splash shield.
4. Remove the alternator.
5. Remove the top alternator brace plate.
6. Remove the top 3 bolts from the alternator / power steering mounting bracket AND the one in the back mounted to a stabilizer bar.
7. Remove the bottom 3 bolts from the alternator / power steering mounting bracket. Requires offset 15mm and obstruction 15mm.
8. Remove the 3 bolts (behind the pulley that mount the power steering pump to the alt / ps mounting bracket.
9. Remove the high and low pressure lines from the ps pump.
10. Remove the nut that hold the ps pump from behind.
11. Remove the alt /ps mounting bracket from the engine compartment allowing the ps pump to stay behind. Below is a good shot of the bracket.
http://picasaweb.google.com/dpstickney/Vehicle?authkey=Gv1sRgCI2P9tOL4O6BUw#5482422223344925410
12. Disconnect the filler tube and remove the ps pump.
13. Remove the ps pump pulley (messed up here... no gear pullers!!)
14. Remove the stud and filler bolt from old pump
15. Install stud and filler bolt from old pump
16. Install pulley (troubles here... If buying a new pulley, be certain you have the correct one...)
17. Install filler tube and insert ps pump into cavity from above.
18. Install alt / ps pump mounting bracket.
19. Attach ps pump to alt / ps pump mounting bracket. This is a pain...
20. Attach high and low pressure lines
21. Install alternator.
22. Install cowl.
23. Install splash shield and passenger wheel.
24. Add fluid and bleed.

Note: I did attempt to install the ps pump attached to the alt / ps mounting bracket to save myself some trouble, but the stabilizer bar behind the alternator seemed to block my path. Below are some pictures of this failed attempt.
:Wow1:
http://picasaweb.google.com/dpstickney/Vehicle?authkey=Gv1sRgCI2P9tOL4O6BUw#5482422249654928738
http://picasaweb.google.com/dpstickney/Vehicle?authkey=Gv1sRgCI2P9tOL4O6BUw#5482422290930338722

Good times! Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks! :thumb:

Dave

 

[dp_stickney]

Question: Do you have a Haynes/Chilton/Factory Service manual at your disposal for reference??

Yes, but following their instructions would have me removing the exhaust system. Otherwise, it was in front of me the entire time.

Dave

 

[raj49]

i forgot to add, again for the 3.0l motors pumps, each mounting hole on the new pump must be sealed especially those that are not used.

Also which fluid are you guys using? I know this is a picky issue everyone but I'd like to know. ATF+4 or regular power steering fluid?