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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thank you for the explanation. I need to disable PWM (or enable HID) for headlights because I have LEDs there, both HI and LO. I am disappointed with AlphaOBD since it doesn't give PWM % adjustment.​
 

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The PWM is set by voltage and not duty cycle, so that's why there's no 100% option. Setting it to 12.5v should work for most LED bulbs. If they still flicker, you will need capacitors. Get low capacitance ones for your high beams or you will effectively remove high beam flash/flash-to-pass.
 

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I don't see anything other than biking vids on his channel. You sure it's the right guy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 · (Edited)
My apology. Fly Ryde, not Sky. Here is one of the videos How to Cut Open Headlights | Milwaukee Oscillating Multi-tool | FlyRyde - YouTube He cuts right between the lens and the black housing. He has another video showing how to seal (with black silicone). I found more vids with "cut open headlight housing" One person says cutting saves 30 hours of baking, opening & cleaning of permaseal. Having no experience (of baking) and not wanting to spend 30 hours on prep, I have no choice but to cut.
 

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Either way is hard, but cutting them open increases chances of leaks and depending on how you seal them back up, you might not be able to get them back off. It's quite literally the hack way of doing it.

30 hours is a big exaggeration. Someone that has done it a good bit can get a pair open, done, and resealed in a day. As a first timer, it will take you longer, but it definitely won't take 30 hours just to open them up. You have to open them while they are hot, so it can't take too long.

However you do it, you are almost guaranteed to ruin your first set. Every single person I know that does it professionally said they ruined at least one when they started. So don't feel bad and be prepared in case that happens.
 
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thank you for the explanation. I narrowed down to 2 or 3 LED projectors. It will take a month to ship from China to US, plenty of time to study baking vs cutting. I see your point of groove seal (baking) vs butt seal (cutting). I remember the YouTuber mentioning running 2 passes of silicone to be pin hole free.
 

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Thank you for the explanation. I need to disable PWM (or enable HID) for headlights because I have LEDs there, both HI and LO. I am disappointed with AlphaOBD since it doesn't give PWM % adjustment.​
Get Appcar DiagFCA, I bought 5vins 20$/each, but one vin is 49$ currently. Having never used it I just got in the van, powered the app, and started to adjust settinngs, Halogen to HID and a fwe other adjustments and was able to install LED bulbs without a hick up. Adjusting Voltage on the DRL is nice too.

Bluetooth dongle is around 50$, the app is 50$ and thats all you need to do anything you want with your car.
 

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AlfaOBD is much cheaper than FCAdiag. $50 for unlimited vehicles. Does all the same stuff and has a mobile version.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I didn't know FCADiag is per vehicle. AlphaOBD is definitely better priced. There was a time when I had 5 Fords and I needed a scan tool to maintain them. I bought Autoenginuity base + Ford. When I bought this Dodge, I thought about adding their Dodge package. Compared to their price, AlphaOBD is almost free.

BTW you don't need $100 obdlink. $30 veepeak works well if you are a weekend mechanic like me.
 

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Veepeak, first time hearing of them. I looked them up, they have 4 models. Guess you have the $33 BLE? Or did you get burned on markup for one of the VP models? Been looking for a cheap alternative to OBDlink that won't break me to send to friends and family.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Yes, Veepeak BLE is what I have. I think I also have the lesser model somewhere in the garage. I will see if it works with AlphaOBD.
 

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Aside from Butyl to reseal, the only thing I have is the first line of this vid. :p

 
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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Per your previous post all are expected to mess up their first retrofit. And I am not going to fail the expectation 😀
 

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Either way is hard, but cutting them open increases chances of leaks and depending on how you seal them back up, you might not be able to get them back off. It's quite literally the hack way of doing it.

30 hours is a big exaggeration. Someone that has done it a good bit can get a pair open, done, and resealed in a day. As a first timer, it will take you longer, but it definitely won't take 30 hours just to open them up. You have to open them while they are hot, so it can't take too long.

However you do it, you are almost guaranteed to ruin your first set. Every single person I know that does it professionally said they ruined at least one when they started. So don't feel bad and be prepared in case that happens.
There's a melted Caliber headlight in a landfill from my first time trying to open up an OEM headlight in the oven :D

But yeah, 30 hours is excessive lol
 
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