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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, have a 2011 Town and Country Limited and looking to do a routine spark plug replacement because of the mileage. Only problem I'm having is I am not sure of the proper gap. Repair videos, and one or two posts on this forum, state it should be .043 or .044. My manual states it should be 0.031, which is a significant difference. I cannot find any info on why the manual says one thing, but every other DIYer says something else. Could anyone clarify before I go through all the hassle of replacing them?
Thanks in advance.
 

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.043" is correct. What garbage manual says .031?
 

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What Manual are you using? I haven't seen a 0.031 inch gap for a long time, likely prior to electronic ignitions. More like a lawnmower gap.

These are the OE tested and proven plugs to use. Anything else is an experiment.

Gap is 0.043" per:
CHAMPION 9407 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Iridium Info
One of our most popular parts

Gap 0.043 IN


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Part image
>
 

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Weird that they did that. Good thing you thought to ask. A short gap like that can be fatal to these engines at high RPM.
 

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Right plug, wrong gap. Dollar Store edition? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Right plug, wrong gap. Dollar Store edition? :)
This is literally the OEM owner's manual with the car, not a repair manual. That's what got me so confused. Just finished with the install with .043" gaps and everything is working fine. Thank you, everyone, for the input!
 

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Was that an Owner's Manual (thicker) or a User's Guide (thinner)? Both are available from chrysler.com for downloading.

I just looked it up for a 2011: :)

From the Owner's Manual:
Spark Plugs RER8ZWYCB4 (Gap 0.043 in [1.1 mm])

From the User's Guide:
Spark Plug 3.6L RER8ZWYCB4 (Gap 0.031 in [0.79 mm])

The Owner's Manual has a lot more information. That document plus rockauto.com gives a world of information.

It's good to hear your job went well. (y)
 
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Seems like a detail they need to fix. Under gapping can lead to knock. Some DIY folks not wanting to flip through the larger manual are going to run across that when doing their plugs and have issues. After all, it almost happened here.

@ChryslerCares Think you can get them to fix the spark plug gap listed in the User Guide?
 
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Seems like a detail they need to fix. Under gapping can lead to knock. Some DIY folks not wanting to flip through the larger manual are going to run across that when doing their plugs and have issues. After all, it almost happened here.

@ChryslerCares Think you can get them to fix the spark plug gap listed in the User Guide?
They fixed it for the 2016 model year, no gap listed in Owner's Manual or User's Guide. You think they would have at least made a reference to rockauto.com. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Was that an Owner's Manual (thicker) or a User's Guide (thinner)? Both are available from chrysler.com for downloading.

I just looked it up for a 2011: :)

From the Owner's Manual:
Spark Plugs RER8ZWYCB4 (Gap 0.043 in [1.1 mm])

From the User's Guide:
Spark Plug 3.6L RER8ZWYCB4 (Gap 0.031 in [0.79 mm])

The Owner's Manual has a lot more information. That document plus rockauto.com gives a world of information.

It's good to hear your job went well. (y)
You're correct, it would be the User Guide. Got the vehicle second hand so I guess I didn't realize they had a separate user manual. Heck of a misprint, though!

PS: I said "everything is working fine", not that the job went well:p. First time I reassembled the intake I realized I hadn't lined the front bracket correctly and had to take everything out again. Then after reassembling it a second time I went to put the engine cover back on and saw a foam pad sitting on it that is supposed to go over the front coils and had to take everything apart for a third time. Devil is in the details. My bad, it was cold as **** outside and my back was getting me from leaning over the engine bay for so long and I started rushing just to be done with it. But hey, now I can take it apart in about 10 minutes, so that's good considering one of the spark plugs had a bunch of oil on it so I know I'll be back in there next week.
 

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Sounds like the spark plug tube may have worked loose. Pull the valve cover and give it a solid hit with a hammer straight in and replace the cover gasket.

Since you've probably never pulled them, there's a few tricks to it. On the front one, you need to loosen the intake brackets, but you do not have to fully remove the bolts. On the rear one you need to remove the PCV valve first. Both of the covers need to be shifted slightly towards the belt side in order for the actuators to clear the cams. That's tricky on the back one because you have to also shift it the opposite direction to clear the PCV hole.
 
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Sounds like the spark plug tube may have worked loose. Pull the valve cover and give it a solid hit with a hammer straight in and replace the cover gasket.

Since you've probably never pulled them, there's a few tricks to it. On the front one, you need to loosen the intake brackets, but you do not have to fully remove the bolts. On the rear one you need to remove the PCV valve first. Both of the covers need to be shifted slightly towards the belt side in order for the actuators to clear the cams. That's tricky on the back one because you have to also shift it the opposite direction to clear the PCV hole.
Is it fairly common for those tubes to work loose? I just noticed some oil around coil boot #6 on my 2015. Only 47,000 miles though...
 

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It happens. It's not super common, but enough that mechanics know about it. May have not been set in good at the factory too.
 

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Is it fairly common for those tubes to work loose? I just noticed some oil around coil boot #6 on my 2015. Only 47,000 miles though...
Leaky valve pan cover? You may get a misfire code eventually.
 
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