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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
:confuzzed Hi I am new to the list!!
I just bought a 98 Town and Country lxi. It appears to be in pretty good shape. I have been programming all the gadgets etc and have a couple questions.
1) The AC 'snowflake' and the 'recirc' button have lights built into the button. When I start the van both buttons flash together for several minutes and then go out. The lamps function fine after that?? what is that all about??

2) The rear wiper works, so does the rear sprayer for the wiper. However neither of the lights in the buttons for those will light. Even though the unit is on and working ? Is the lamp in the button burned out? whats up with that?

Im sure I will have more.. just trying out the forum for the first time.. Hi all!!!
 

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Hmm, Could be a bad bulb. Call your local Chrysler dealer and talk to a a service representative.

Welcome to the Club :)
 

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Is is possible your HVAC system is in diagnostic mode, and flashing a signal to you ?

With engine on set blower motor to high, set mode position knob to panel
(i.e. full left), open all A/C outlets, set temperature to cold (both levers
if so equipped).

Now press the wash and rear wiper buttons on the A/C panel simultaneously
for 5 seconds (until all LED's light).  This should get the test started.
Assorted lights on this panel will flash as different tests are run.
Eventually if the tests are passed the rear wiper LED should be the only
light flashing.  Push the rear wiper button to exit test mode and you should
be home free.
Your van 'may' have a problem that it is trying to communicate to you, or it could just require re-calibration after a power disconnect. My 2 cents....
 

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Well, I feel like an idiot now.

Went and looked up the directions only to see em show up in AMD's post.

Bummer. Just when I thought I would contribute my own experience. :rolleyes:

Chas :blink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yes .. cool.. I ran the diagnostics.. it flashed and the vents all switched around for awhile.. then it got to a point where there was a sequence it was 'stuck' in...
the rear wiper light flashes once
the rear defrost flashes five times
the rear wiper flashes once
the rear defrost flashes 6 times

then it repeats continuously until I press the rear wiper button again and then the AC snowflake and the recirc flash.. so it appears to be telling me something.. reminds me of the OBD flashing codes? any idea what this sequence means?

Also, is there a way to get the OBDs for the van like you used to get by cycling the ignition key?? Ben :thumbup
 

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There are a few members in this forum with factory service manuals (FSM). They may be able to tell you what 1-5 and 1-6 codes mean. If not, you may need to visit your local 5-star for some advice. Best of luck.
 

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Another piece of information........I found this over on another forum:

Alternative #1 (by Jerry Rogich)With engine on set blower motor to high, set mode position knob to panel (i.e. full left), open all A/C outlets, set temperature to cold (both levers if so equipped). Now press the wash and rear wiper buttons on the A/C panel simultaneously for 5 seconds (until all LED's light). This should get the test started. Assorted lights on this panel will flash as different tests are run. Eventually if the tests are passed the rear wiper LED should be the only light flashing. Push the rear wiper button to exit test mode and you should be home free.

I had to use this to reset my hvac after a battery swap on my 98 T+C van.

Codes -LEDs Problem Corrective Action
None flashing Normal None
rear wiper and intermittent LEDs flash simultaneously failed calibration diagnostics run Calibration test
a/c and recirc led's flash simultaneously failed cooldown corrective action  run cooldown test
rear wiper and intermittent led's are flashing simultaneously And recirc led's are flashing simultaneously failed calibration, diagnostics and failed cooldown test run calibration test

0 = passed all tests
1= mode actuator did not reach defrost position
2= mode actuator did not reach panel position
3= blead/pass. Actuator did not reach cold stop
4= blead pass. Actuator did not reach heat stop
5= evaporator temperature fin sensor open
6= evaporator temperature fin sensor shorted
7= driver actuator did not reach cold stop
8= zone/driver actuatoer did not reach heat stop
9= control head internal failure
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I love the net!! I knew you guys would figure it out!! Now.. what the heck is a evaporator temperature fin sensor and a mode actuator, where are they, and how do I check it / fix it?? .. on the scent of the trail now... grrrr... thx to all so far.. Ben :banger
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
:angry: just talked to chrysler.. 60 bucks to reprogram the head... wow.. hope I dont have to unplug the battery very much... ugh.. still hoping for another solution.. Ben
 

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Originally posted by flybyy@Feb 3 2004, 08:26 AM
:angry: just talked to chrysler.. 60 bucks to reprogram the head... wow.. hope I dont have to unplug the battery very much... ugh.. still hoping for another solution.. Ben
Yeah, the dealer here wanted $45 to make the blinking lights go away.

When I found out it was as simple as holding two buttons in, I vowed never to go to a dealer again for service. :)

I have since then so my vows aren't worth much.

Chas :blink:
 

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Alternative #1 (by Jerry Rogich)With engine on set blower motor to high, set mode position knob to panel (i.e. full left), open all A/C outlets, set temperature to cold (both levers if so equipped). Now press the wash and rear wiper buttons on the A/C panel simultaneously for 5 seconds (until all LED's light). This should get the test started. Assorted lights on this panel will flash as different tests are run. Eventually if the tests are passed the rear wiper LED should be the only light flashing. Push the rear wiper button to exit test mode and you should be home free.

I had to use this to reset my hvac after a battery swap on my 98 T+C van.

Codes -LEDs Problem Corrective Action
None flashing Normal None
rear wiper and intermittent LEDs flash simultaneously failed calibration diagnostics run Calibration test
a/c and recirc led's flash simultaneously failed cooldown corrective action run cooldown test
rear wiper and intermittent led's are flashing simultaneously And recirc led's are flashing simultaneously failed calibration, diagnostics and failed cooldown test run calibration test

0 = passed all tests
1= mode actuator did not reach defrost position
2= mode actuator did not reach panel position
3= blead/pass. Actuator did not reach cold stop
4= blead pass. Actuator did not reach heat stop
5= evaporator temperature fin sensor open
6= evaporator temperature fin sensor shorted
7= driver actuator did not reach cold stop
8= zone/driver actuatoer did not reach heat stop
9= control head internal failure

***My dealer charged me $20 bucks for getting rid of this problem!!! F%%%K!

Can this test be run on a 03 vans as well. My 98 voyager had the battery go bad and lights were flashing at that time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok, well here is the final answer... after much research and frustration I took my van to Chysler, and for the nominal charge of 69.95 they reset the flashy lights and told me there isnt anything wrong with my truck... yay?? anyway, I have now had to pay for a Chrysler design flaw.. sweet deal for them.. and I will pursue that for sport now.. but the good news is, here is a way to have this not happen to you... whenever you are planning to disconnect the battery for any reason. Get a 12V supply like a battery charger and put it on the cables before you disconnect the battery and leave them on there the whole time. This way the truck will always see a 12V supply and it wont 'know' the battery is out. This way you dont have to give the smiling man at the stealership 70 bucks to tell you nothing is wrong and make the flashy lights go away... grrrrrrr.... they have awakened a sleeping giant now... :cuss :angry: :angrya
 

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It is kind of strange how things work. When I changed my wife's battery a few years ago in the 98 caravan, I got the blinky light thing happening
and was able to reset it after researching on the I-net (long before this web page existed.)

Ironically, I had her battery disconnected for a whole day deep charging it and when I re-connected it, I had no problems and no lights.


Chas :blink:
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
That's normally what happens. however, in some cases (mine being one of those). when you put the hvac controller into diagnostic mode, it gets 'stuck' and wont come out giving the appearance that there is an actual problem. In this case there is no actual problem its just a fault in the controller that makes it get 'stuck'. The only way to get rid of it is to reprogram the module using the DRBII. The stealer messed around with the buttons on the controller for probably 15 minutes trying all different methods of diagnosis. Most of which I had already tried. At that point they had to hook up and reprogram.. nah well.. just makes me PO'd..
 

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... whenever you are planning to disconnect the battery for any reason. Get a 12V supply like a battery charger and put it on the cables before you disconnect the battery and leave them on there the whole time. This way the truck will always see a 12V supply and it wont 'know' the battery is out. ...
Believe me I understand your frustration. I had hoped some of these posts might have allowed you to reset that HVAC system yourself. One comment though..... When it says to DISCONNECT BATTERY in the procedures when repairing a car... don't bypass that step!!! Its for your own personal safety, and to protect the electronic systems in the vehicle when working on things.
There are many, many reasons why it will instruct the mechanic to disconnect the battery. One major one that comes to mind is the air bag system. It sure would suck to be working on something electrical in the dash, or say removing a front bumper and inadvertently having the air bags let go. Quite costly, and could kill ya. Glad to hear you have the flashing lights back the way they should be !! :tup
 

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Originally posted by AMD Rules@Feb 17 2004, 05:58 PM
It sure would suck to be working on something electrical in the dash, or say removing a front bumper and inadvertently having the air bags let go. Quite costly, and could kill ya.
When the guy was putting in my wife's remote starter, that was what I was waiting for. I was just visualizing the air bags jumping out of the dashboard.

I actually made him disconnect the battery (not that I didn't trust him but I didn't.)

:)

All went well though.

Chas :blink:
 

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When the guy was putting in my wife's remote starter, that was what I was waiting for. I was just visualizing the air bags jumping out of the dashboard.
I agree....yup yup yup
When installing remote start, or even a stereo I still kept my head clear of the airbags if possible, even though I know they are discinnected. I've seen an airbag detonate in a 2-door vehicle before. The empty driver's seat back was in the forward position (to gain access to rear seats) when it blew. The flying headrest cracked the rear window as it flew apart from the seat. Airbags pack a big punch, and demand respect. :blink:
 

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bumped this up 4 U

I bumped this up for the AC problems thread.
 
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